Ilkley
Ilkley is a town in West Yorkshire, part of the metropolitan borough of Bradford, with a population in 2021 of 15,000. It had a 19th-century heyday as a spa town, but the main reason to visit today is to walk the nearby countryside, especially Ilkley Moor.
Understand
[edit]
Ilkley sits in the valley of the River Wharfe: a Roman fort and town were built here from 79 AD, but prehistoric carvings on the surrounding moors shows that settlement is much older. It was an insignificant market and textile town until the 18th century then became a destination for its healing waters. The height of the spa and "hydropathic" fashion was in the Victorian era: the Ben Rhydding Hydro was completed in 1844, the railway arrived, and Charles Darwin "took the cure" at the Hydro in 1859 just as his book On the Origin of Species was being published. The waters were said to be good for bad eyes, tumours and sores, scrophula and "all cases where the spine is affected". Several similar establishments sprang up in Ilkley: you dunked in cold or hot water, were swaddled in towels to open the pores and sweat out the toxins causing said ailments, and drank the water in copious amounts. The village of Wheatley adopted the Hydro's name of Ben Rhydding, a supposed ancient name for the district just as bogus as the cures. The Hydro was demolished in 1955.
Ilkley Moor rises just south of town: see Yorkshire for the story of the traditional song warning against going up there "baht at", without a hat.
Visitor information is available from the library opposite the station, open M Tu Th 9AM-7PM, W F Sa 9AM-5PM.
- Discover Ilkley by Ilkley Business Improvement District.
Get in
[edit]By plane
[edit]Leeds Bradford Airport (LBA IATA) has flight connections across Europe and within the UK. It's 11 miles southeast of Ilkley and is more convenient for here than for Leeds or Bradford, as you dodge the city-centre traffic. This means that flying from London to Ilkley can make sense, whereas the train is always quicker for London-Leeds. From the airport take hourly Bus A3 to Otley then change buses.
Manchester Airport (MAN IATA) is better for flights beyond Europe. There's an hourly direct train from the airport to Leeds, heading to York, Middlesbrough and Redcar.
By train
[edit]1 Ilkley station has trains from Leeds every 30 min, taking 30 min via Guiseley, Menston, Burley and Ben Rhydding. They also run from Bradford Forster Square every 30 min, taking 45 min via Frizinghall, Shipley, Baildon, Guiseley then as above. Ilkley is a terminus so to reach Skipton or further out in the Dales you have to ride back into Leeds and change. The station is central in town, with a staffed office and ticket machines, but no toilets or waiting room. There is step-free access to both platforms.
Ben Rhydding is a platform halt for all trains, five minutes before they reach Ilkley. The ticket office is staffed for the morning rush, and there are machines. No toilets or waiting room. There is step-free access to both platforms.
By road
[edit]Ilkley is on A65 from Leeds, which drills right through town heading northwest to Otley, Skipton, the Dales and eventually the M6 and Kendal. On fine weekends it's congested and Ilkley is a tetchy bottleneck as city dwellers head for the countryside.
By bus
[edit]First Bus X84 runs every 45 min from Leeds, taking 75 min via Weetwood, Otley and Burley-in-Wharfedale.
Dales Bus 64 runs M-Sa hourly from Skipton, taking 25 min via Addingham.
Dales Bus 874 runs on Sunday year round from Ilkley to Addingham, Bolton Abbey and The Strid. May-Oct there are five runs: one starts from Wetherby via Leeds and Otley, and two continue from Bolton Abbey to Grassington and Buckden.
Bus 62 runs every 30 min from Keighley, taking 45 min via Steeton, Silsden and Addingham.
Ilkley bus station is at the railway station.
Get around
[edit]
Town is walkable, but you need a vehicle to explore the nearby hills and dales.
Taxis wait by the railway & bus station. Ilkley Taxis are on +44 1943 601110.
See
[edit]- Ilkley Toy Museum, 2 Whitton Croft Rd LS29 9HR (50 yds south of station), ☏ +44 1943 603855. Sa Su noon-4PM. Large collection of dolls, dolls houses and other toys from 350 BCE to modern times. Adult £3.50, child £2.50.
- 1 Manor House Museum, Castle Yard LS29 9DT, ☏ +44 7480 064142. Sa Su 11AM-4PM. Exhibiting local history plus art gallery. The manor itself is a hotch-potch of Roman robbed stone, medieval, Tudorbethan and early modern. Free.
- All Saints' Church next to the Manor is Anglican. It's on the site of a Roman fort, and parts of it are 13th century. Within are three Anglo-Saxon crosses.
- 2 Cow and Calf is a rocky outcrop at the edge of Ilkley Moor, a popular rock-climbing area.
- 3 White Wells is the last remnant of the town hydros, a cottage on the edge of the moor open M-F 2-5PM, Sa Su 10AM-5PM. You can't use the former hydro facilities, we've a much better understanding of medicine and health nowadays, so instead buy a microwaved pasty from the cafe.
- 4 Swastika Stone is a prehistoric rock carving on the trail along the scarp. It's faint, so a Victorian replica has been placed in front. It's a looping spiralling design, like an amoeba partying wildly at a disco, not the familiar angular symbol.
- 5 Twelve Apostles is a circle of local gritstones near the top of the moor, maybe Bronze Age. The site is eroded by visitors' boots and it's not possible to glean much about it.
- Bolton Abbey 6 miles north is administratively part of Ilkley town, but usually reached from Skipton.
Do
[edit]
- Ilkley Cinema is at 46a Leeds Rd.
- Theatre: King's Hall & Winter Garden is opposite the station.
- Golf: Ilkley GC is on the slopes north of the river. White tees 6262 yards, par 69, visitor round £90.
- Ben Rhydding GC is east edge of town. White tees 4656 yards, par 65, visitor round £28.
- Ilkley Pool and Lido is a heated outdoor pool on Denton Rd north of the river, open May-Aug.
- Football: soccer and rugby union (15-a-side) are played here at amateur level. Head into Leeds or Bradford for pro soccer and rugby league (13-a-side).
- Ilkley Literary Festival is next held F 3 - Su 19 Oct 2025.
- Ilkley Moor rises steeply at the south edge of town. It's the local section of Rombald's Moor (summit 402 m), as each flanking village gives its name to its neighbouring slopes. Lots of walking trails, Dales Way / Ebor Way is the trail atop the scarp. Several stones have prehistoric inscriptions, such as the Swastika Stone.
- Dales Way is a 79 mile hiking trail from Ilkley to Burnsall, Buckden, Cam High Road, Cowgill, Sedburgh, Staveley and Bowness-on-Windermere. A local five mile loop follows the river upstream to Addingham, crosses and returns on the opposite bank.
Buy
[edit]
- Moors Shopping Centre is 200 yards west of the station.
- Tesco supermarket is 100 yards east of the station, open M-Sa 7AM-10PM, Su 10AM-4PM.
Eat
[edit]- "Then worms'll come and eat thee oop, eat thee oop!"
- - cheery fifth stanza of On Ilka Moor b'aht at
- Forde Ilkley is a "small plates" restaurant, which sounds a lot like tapas. It's in Moors Shopping Centre, open Tu-Sa noon-11PM, Su noon-8PM.
- Brooks in the shopping centre is Sri Lankan tapas, which sounds a lot like කෝප්, "koop" or "short eats". It's open Tu-Th 5-8PM, F Sa noon-2PM, 5-8PM, Su noon-4PM.
- Pranzo in the shopping centre is an Italian open daily noon-11PM.
- Quinta is Med fare at 10 Wells Rd just south of the station, open Tu-Th 6-10PM, F Sa noon-3PM, 6-11PM, Su noon-7:30PM.
- The Yorkie Cow is trad British cuisine at 26 Brook St, 50 yards north of the station, open W & Su noon-3PM, Th-Sa noon-3PM, 6-10PM.
- The Box Tree, 35 Church St LS29 9DR, ☏ +44 1943 608484. W Th 6-7:30PM, F Sa noon-1:30PM, 6-8PM, Su noon-2:30PM. Upscale French fine dining.
Drink
[edit]
- Town centre pubs include Ticket Office Bar, Midland Hotel, Station Pub, Yards Bar & Kitchen, Black Hat, Flying Duck, Lister Arms (JD Wetherspoon), Ilkley Tap (below) and Bar T'at.
- Ilkley Tap is at 60 The Grove Promenade, a quarter mile west of the station, open M-Th noon-11PM, F Sa 10AM-midnight, Su 10AM-10PM. It's the taproom for Ilkley Brewery, which is at the northeast edge of town.
- Bini Brew is a small brewery within Drill Hall Business Centre, off A65 Leeds Rd half a mile east of town centre. The taproom is open W-F 5-10PM, Sa Su 3-10PM.
Sleep
[edit]- Crescent Hotel, Brook St, Ilkley LS29 8DG (100 yards north of railway station), ☏ +44 1943 811250. Efficient central hotel, dog-friendly. B&B double £130.
- Chez Vivienne is opposite Crescent Hotel at 43a Brook St. It's trying for Parisian bijou but some reckon it's overpriced.
- 1 The Riverside, 26 Bridge Lane, Ilkley LS29 9EU, ☏ +44 1943 607338. Friendly pleasant place, cleaning erratic. B&B double £110.
- 2 Craiglands Hotel, Cowpasture Rd, Ilkley LS29 8RQ, ☏ +44 1943 430001. Comfy enough but often hosts functions with raucous guests. B&B double £110.
- 3 Wheatley Arms, 64 Wheatley Lane, Ben Rhydding LS29 8PW, ☏ +44 1943 816496. Good comfortable inn, dog-friendly. B&B double £140.
- 4 Cow and Calf, Hangingstone Rd, Ben Rhydding LS29 8BT, ☏ +44 1943 669180. Good edge-of-town base for hill walkers. B&B double £140.
Stay safe
[edit]
Beware traffic and safeguard valuables, same as anywhere else.
Ilkley Moor demands stout shoes and caution close to drops but is not perilous. Lots of people even venture upon it without a hat, yet live to tell the tale.
Connect
[edit]As of May 2025, Ilkley and its approach roads have 4G from Vodafone and 5G from EE, O2 and Three. The moor is festooned with relay masts so you should get a good signal up there also.
Go next
[edit]- Leeds is the lively city a short train ride away.
- Bradford has the National Science and Media Museum and lots of heritage from its textile industry.
- Harrogate is a charming genteel place that retains its spa industry, but now it's called "wellness".
- Keighley is a grubby former mill town, but it's the start of the steam railway to Haworth and the Brontë Country.
- Otley is the next market town heading west into the Dales.
- Skipton at the start of the Dales is a charming market town with a castle and scenic canal.
Routes through Ilkley |
Skipton ← | NW ![]() | → Otley → Leeds |