Hanoi
Hanoi (Vietnamese: Hà Nội), the capital of Vietnam and its second-largest city, is a fascinating blend of East and West, with Chinese influence from centuries of dominance, and French je ne sais quoi from its colonial past. It was largely unspoiled by the modern architecture of the 1970s and 80s, and is now undergoing a rapid transformation that makes it a rising star in Southeast Asia.
Understand
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Invading forces from every direction agree: Hanoi makes a fine capital. It has held that title for more than a thousand years, through several invasions, occupations, restorations, and name changes. The Chinese conquered the imperial city of Đại La in 1408 and renamed it Tống Bình. Le Loi repelled the invaders in 1428 and applied the name of Lê Thái Tổ (黎太祖). For his efforts, he received the crown and a slew of legends about his heroic exploits, many centred around Hoan Kiem Lake. The Nguyen Dynasty gave the city its modern name of Ha Noi in 1831, but they had transferred power to Hue by then. Hue remained the capital until 1887, when the French made Hanoi the capital of all Indochina. It changed hands again in 1954, when it was ceded to Ho Chi Minh and the Viet Minh after almost a decade of fighting, and it became the capital of North Vietnam. Upon reunification in 1975, it assumed that title for the entire country. (See also: Indochina Wars).
Hanoi retains much of its older colonial charm, despite the battles that have raged over it. Conflict had the effect of making it largely oblivious to modern architecture, and as a result, few buildings in the city center are higher than five stories. The Old Quarter, the area around and north of Hoan Kiem Lake, is second only to Hoi An for uninterrupted stretches of colonial and pre-colonial architecture, well-preserved on dense warrens of narrow, wonderfully atmospheric streets.
The first Western-style universities in Vietnam were founded in Hanoi, and today, it is the leading centre of scientific study and research in the country. It trades the commercial boom and sprawl of Ho Chi Minh City in the south for a more understated charm, worth enjoying for an extra day or two; and with countless transport options and travel agents, it makes a perfect base for exploration of the North.
As you walk along the street, you may find that people start talking to you. It is a cultural norm there to make conversation with strangers. They might ask you where you are from and other general questions. But if you are a man, be cautious if a comely young lady approaches you and initiates a conversation - she is likely after something. It may take a while to get used to such overt friendliness, but it is worth enjoying it for the cultural experience that travel permits.
- Tourist Information Centre, Đinh Tiên Hoàng St. (just north of Hoan Kiem Lake), ☏ +84 24 3926-3366. Can provide a fairly useful map (bewilderingly, the blow-up of the old town is missing) and other English-language advice, as well as limited free Internet.
There are self-help information booths around the Old Quarter, but their purpose mostly is give the impression that Vietnam "has arrived" technologically.
Climate
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The Tết holiday (Lunar New Year) is in the spring. Flowers are most beautiful during this time of the year. The weather warms up, with occasional light rain during the week. Locals believe that these light rains bring prosperity and luck in the new year.
Summer, on the other hand, borders on intolerable. The heat alone would be alright, but it's coupled with oppressive humidity and frequent rainstorms. At this time, visitors should be wary of mosquitoes as they abound. Hanoi has a perfect climate for the proliferation of insects.
There is something unique about Hanoi’s autumn. The weather is perfect, with less humidity in the air. The temperature drops, allowing people a chance to flaunt their sweaters and jackets. Milkwood trees ("cây hoa sữa"), which only flowers in autumn, commonly lines many streets. The flower has a very distinct scent; if you visit Hanoi during the fall, ask locals about this tree and where you might sniff its distinct aroma.
Winter can be uncomfortable because it's not only cold, but also humid. Winter in Hanoi feels even colder than it is because Vietnamese houses lack central heating; many houses have no heating at all. However, the winter months of December and January are also the driest months of the year with comparatively less rainfall, with the rains gradually picking up from the middle of February onwards. Pollution is unfortunately worst in winter, thanks to rampant waste burning, seasonal lack of rainfall, and the surrounding mountains trapping dirty air in the low-lying capital - Hanoi has frequently ranked among the top 5 most-polluted cities in the world in the past few years.
Get in
[edit]By plane
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- 1 Nội Bài International Airport (HAN IATA) (35 km north of the city center), ☏ +84 1900 636535. You can transfer through Nội Bài to other international destinations without a visa as long as you do not leave the terminal. International flights use Terminal 2, opened in 2015 and modern and spacious. There is a shuttle bus between the domestic and international terminals, or it can be walked in about 15-20 minutes. As of March 2025, Terminal 2 is undergoing large-scale expansion works; construction is planned to be finished by December 2025.
There are direct international flights from all major South East Asian capitals, most major Chinese and Taiwanese cities, and also from Bali, Sydney, Melbourne, Delhi, Mumbai, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Doha, Istanbul, Munich, Frankfurt, Paris, and London. Direct flights from Milan will commence on 1 July 2025. No direct flights from North America for now – Ho Chi Minh City, Taipei, Seoul or Tokyo will usually be the most convenient interchange. Domestic flights, by Vietnam Airlines, Bamboo Airways and Vietjet Air, serve Ho Chi Minh City, Da Nang, Hue, Nha Trang, Da Lat, Can Tho, Vinh, Dien Bien Phu, and Phu Quoc island.
Getting there and away:
Public and express buses depart from the arrivals level at the International Terminal, second road, at pillar 2 (turn left after exiting the terminal). From the Domestic Terminal they leave from between the Vietnam Airlines and Vietjet Air terminals.
- By public bus – Bus 07 (8,000 dong) runs 05:00–22:00 every 15 min and takes 60-90 min. It crosses the Thang Long Bridge and goes to the Daewoo Hotel in the west of Hanoi, from where it is 1 hr on foot to the Old Quarter of Hanoi. You might have to walk about 1 km west of the airport to catch bus 07 if it does not leave in front of the terminal.
- By express bus — Bus 86 (45,000 dong) runs 06:20–22:00 every 25 min and takes 45 min. It takes the expressway non-stop to the Tay Ho area, continuing limited stop to the Long Bien bus station, near the Old Quarter, the Opera House, Melía Hotel and the railway station. Towards the airport, buses run 05:05-21:40 from a booth at the south end of the main railway station.
- By shuttle bus – (It is not clear if these are still running as of June 2022.) Hourly between the airport and the Vietnam Airlines Downtown Office, 25 Tràng Thi / 1 Quang Trung (a bit south of the old quarter but conveniently stocked with taxis and motorbike drivers), ☏ +84 24 3934-9660. Tickets at the airport are sold in the building in front of which the minibuses park, or you can give the fare directly to the driver. The cost is more for foreigners than for Vietnamese (which includes ethnic Vietnamese from overseas) for insurance reasons. The prices are indicated on the sticker fixed to the bus's body. The driver may give you trouble if you have additional bags, but if you push, you will get the same rate.
- By taxi – There are taxi stands just outside arrivals; turn right from the Domestic Terminal (T1), or left from International (T2). Avoid the touts in the arrival and just head straight for the taxi stand; the taxis they will try to get you in are most likely illegal, and you are likely to get ripped off. Official taxis are provided by various taxi companies, and all should run on the meter; Mai Linh and Taxi Group are generally the safest taxi companies to use. Have the address you want to go to ready and written down in Vietnamese — the chances of you speaking it in a way the driver will understand are slim. Maybe print out a map beforehand, since every street in Hanoi has clearly visible street signs at both ends, you should be able to discern which street you are in.
- A ride into the Old Quarter should cost 300,000—350,000 dong (Mai Linh taxi, July 2015) and come up somewhere around 27-28 km in distance on the meter. The French Quarter or south side of Hoan Kiem lake might be a little more, but still under 400,000 dong. Many taxis, including Taxi Group and ABC, accept credit cards — ask first and show them the credit card. You might also get offered a fixed price of US$20 by the driver, which works out as about a 25% premium.
- Some drivers will ask something like 800,000 dong, especially if they see 3-4 foreigners — just ignore them. Make sure that the meter starts shortly after the taxi moves off, and if you want to be sure the meter's not running fast, then from the International Terminal it should have reached about 0.7 km by the time you reach the airport toll booths (taxis don't pay the toll), and around 2 km by the time you pass the Domestic Terminal (the distance will be displayed in km, often along with the speed). A ride into the city should take about 30-40 minutes on the new highway depending on traffic.
- Downloading Grab app (local Uber) helps a lot. Fares around 300,000 dong to the city center, depending on demand, or about half of that by motorcycle, if you feel adventurous and only have a backpack.
- By pre-arranged transfer – If you already have a hotel booked, you might ask the hotel to dispatch a driver. The nicer hotels will do this and put the steep fare on your room bill.
Stay safe:
Taxi or shuttle bus drivers might try the 'typhoon in Ha Long Bay' scam whereby they take you to a street where you cannot see the hotel name and tell you that the Ha Long Bay guests are still in the hotel and they will take you to their other hotel for the same price. This place is a complete dive facing the highway.
You should also beware taxi drivers trying to offer you a ride to your hotel for an inflated price, claiming the Old Quarter is 5 km from the office — it is much cheaper to go to the Vietnam Airlines office and switch to a taxi (or walk, it's a maximum of 2 km to anywhere in the Old Quarter). The taxi will not cost more than the price difference and if it does, you should refuse to pay as the driver has somehow cheated you.
By train
[edit]- 2 Hanoi Station, Ga Hàng Cỏ, 120 Lê Duẩn St., ☏ +84 24 3825-3949.
Most trains use the main Hanoi train station for daily services from cities in the south including Hue and Nha Trang. The Reunification Express goes all the way to Ho Chi Minh City ("Saigon"), although there is very little 'express' about it. There are ten trains a day to HCMC taking 31-38 hours, but five of them are slow and are overtaken by faster trains — only use them for destinations north of Da Nang.
There are also train services to the northwest (including Lao Cai, from which you reach Sapa). To board trains bound for these destinations, you have to enter the railway station compound through the "backdoor" at Tran Quy Cap station.
Tickets for all destinations are sold online (see Vietnam article) or in the main station.
In high season, buy your tickets as early as possible, especially since sleeper tickets can be sold out several days in advance. If you can't get a ticket anymore, try a travel agent who still might have stock. You may also try your luck in the station just before boarding time — agents still holding tickets will be eager to sell as the departure draws near. Nevertheless, travel agencies in Hanoi are known for their bad business practices. Some of them will try to overcharge you up to 300%, so it is better go to the train station by yourself and find out about the prices before you agree on any deal.
Stay safe
[edit]As of 2023, it seems like the ladies in the ticket hall are running a scam against tourists who are willing to buy their train tickets directly at the train station and not online. First there are two suspiciously friendly and helpful English speaking ladies to the left after the entrance into the railway building. Actually, you are already flagged down by some other ladies outside the entrance, who will guide you to the English speaking ladies. These ladies will ask your destination and day of travel. First they will head to the official Vietnamese Railways website, checking for the connections. After that they will do the same procedure again but with the Baolau website — note that Baolau will always display some weird overly expensive prices of other "companies" at the bottom of their search result list. The friendly ladies might use these "extra" prices and your slow reaction to what is happening to convince you that these are the prices while indeed the prices of the Vietnamese Railway Company at the top of the result page are the actual and much cheaper prices. In case you do not take the bait, because you know the real price for your connection since you checked online beforehand, they are very quick in handing you to the actual ticket sellers to the right after the entrance, where you will have to state all the required details of your intended journey again.
So, to avoid being ripped off, book online or know the exact details of your journey, the price and availability, maybe even the exact seat or bed you would like to reserve. It is a very bad idea to turn up at the railway station asking for advice without knowing the exact details and price of your intended journey. If your first questions heading into the railway station are "When can we go?", "Which seats are available?", and "What does it cost?", you are likely to be scammed.
From China
[edit]As of 2025, there is no international train service between Vietnam and China. The MR1/2 overnight sleeper train calling at Gia Lâm (Hanoi)–Đồng Đăng–Pingxiang–Nanning was cancelled in February 2020 due to Covid-19, and there seem to be no plans for its reinstatement.
In early 2025, the Vietnamese government approved a massive semi-high-speed (120-160 km/h) rail project connecting the port city of Haiphong to the border town of Lao Cai, and continuing across the Chinese border all the way to Kunming. This will link up the majority of northern Vietnam's major cities, Hanoi included, into the Chinese high-speed rail network; allowing for fast and convenient cross-border rail travel. As of Mar 2025, the line is planned to open by 2030, although this is subject to potential delays.
By bus
[edit]For buses within Hanoi there is BusMap and BusMap Ha Noi; long distance buses there is VeXeRe.com and its app version. Long distance buses arrive at My Dinh bus station (Bến Xe Mỹ Đình) and many other places depending on the bus company.
Public buses from southern destinations (e.g., Ninh Binh, 2 hr, 70,000 dong) arrive at Giap Bat bus station. To get from the Giap Bat bus station to the old quarter and Hoan Kiem Lake, leave aside all the hassle of taxi and motorbike drivers and take public Bus 8 towards Đông Mỹ (7,000 dong, pay on the bus). To find it head towards the main road inside Giap Bat station, you will see signs with numbers indicating the stops of different bus lines.
Most of the "open-tour" bus itineraries either begin or end in Hanoi, with Hue the next (or previous) stop (12-14 hr), and from there to Hoi An, Nha Trang, Dalat, Mui Ne, Ho Chi Minh City, and other cities in Vietnam, depending on the bus company. Most seem to stop at their office which could be right next to the old district and most backpacker hotels. Check when booking ticket.
Many of the same companies also sell tickets to Vientiane and Savannakhet in Laos. Do some research before you buy a ticket, as rattle-trap scam buses abound on this route.
See Ho Chi Minh City to Shanghai overland if you're interested in crossing over to China by bus or train.
From China
[edit]Apec Travel runs several daily buses from Nanning in China to its office at 55 Trần Khát Chân St., on the south side of Hanoi's city center. Journey time is around 8 hours, including a change of bus and the usual formalities at the border.
Get around
[edit]By metro
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Line 2A connects Cát Linh (west of the Old Quarter) to Yên Nghĩa in the southwestern suburbs. Line 3 connects Cầu Giấy to Nhổn in the northwestern suburbs. The lines are not connected but this will change when the underground stretch between Cầu Giấy and Hanoi Station opens around 2027. Line 2A is useful for getting to Vincom Mega Mall Royal City, one of Hanoi's largest shopping malls, which is within walking distance of Thượng Đình station.
By bus
[edit]Scam-free, cheap but a bit difficult to comprehend at first, the buses in Hanoi are relatively fast, air-conditioned and surprisingly comfortable.
Find you way:
- Download the BusMap Hà Nội mobile app (Google Play, Apple Store) for directions and live time estimates (not very accurate).
- Pick up a physical map with printed bus lines at the Trang Tien street (the book street by the Opera house).
Find your bus stop (there are usually blue signs) and wait for the bus to arrive. Go and sit in the bus, the bus assistant will come to you. The fare varies between 7,000 dong and 9,000 dong (price is fixed and depends on the line) (as of June 2024). If necessary, they should have enough cash for change (but it might be better to avoid paying with larger bills). Locals with Vietnamese banks can also pay with their phones. If you are unfamiliar with the city, make sure to inform the mostly helpful conductor where you want to get off. Or, use your phone's GPS and Google Maps - it works well with most bus lines, just keep in mind that traffic jams make schedules unreliable.
Here is also some information about airport bus route 86; in Old Quarter, the bus stops at other stops along the route in addition to those marked. Find a bus stop on Hàng Tre, Hàng Vôi, or Đinh Tiên Hoàng (marked with standard bus signs), wait for a 86 bus, and flag it down to board.
By taxi
[edit]The easiest way to get around is by using Grab (Android, iOS). The English user interface makes navigation a cinch, fares are fixed and typically cheaper, and you can pay by cash or credit card.
By metered taxi
[edit]Taxis proper are small cars seating 4 or larger cars seating 7. Within the city, three companies are generally reliable: CP Taxi and Hanoi Taxi are two brands of Taxi Group, in white cars, and Mai Linh are in green cars. Taxi Nội Bài specialise in airport transfers.
Your hotel will call a reliable firm, and leave them in no doubt where they are supposed to be taking you.
Unless you ordered by app, use the meter, flag-fall will be 20,000 dong for the first 2 km. Tips are not expected, but they are appreciated.
Good-spirited haggling, and a bit of language confusion, are part of the experience. Scams are more serious: these include crooked meters, roundabout routes, stealing part of your luggage and outright robbery. And even the nicest driver somehow never has change for your big bill: always hoard small bills.
By motorbike taxi
[edit]Motorbike taxis can be found on virtually every corner, especially in the Old Quarter: don't look for them, they'll accost you, so show only faint interest at first. You must haggle and firmly fix a fare in advance. Always write down the fare (with all the zeroes) and get an unequivocal "okay" from the driver. A 10-min ride (say from Hoan Kiem lake to Ho Chi Minh's tomb) should not exceed 20,000 dong; US dollars are often accepted. The driver has a second helmet for you.
Common scams here include (when you re-emerge from the tomb in reverent thought) claiming that you'd asked him to wait, that'll be two million dong please.
By cyclo taxi
[edit]Negotiate first or avoid using the cyclo services. At the end of the journey, a few men will come over to translate, and they will pretend to help and later insist that you pay the demanded amount.
By car
[edit]Hanoi's traffic is extremely chaotic, with seemingly perpetual traffic jams, and a large number of almost suicidal motorcyclists, cyclists and pedestrians. Vietnamese drivers are among the most aggressive in the world, and lanes are effectively non-existent. As such, driving yourself around is not recommended, and you should leave your transportation needs in the hands of professionals.
By motorbike
[edit]- See also: Vietnam by motorcycle
Motorcycles can be rented for around US$6–7 a day, and can be arranged by most hotels. This is good for making lots of trips around the city for individuals or duos, but be careful: Hanoi traffic is very difficult place to sharpen motorbike skills. Park on the pavement with other bikes, and be sure to lock the front wheel. Locals will help arrange the bikes near their stores. Many shops that have bike attendants will give you a ticket in exchange for parking your bike. This may or may not come with a fee. The ticket will either have your license plate number written on it, or the ticket itself will be numbered, with that number subsequently chalked somewhere on your bike. In such cases, where you've been given a ticket, the attendants may ask that you not lock the steering column or front wheel of your bike so that they can rearrange the bikes as customers come and go. Keep your ticket—it is not heard of that people try to charge tourists twice. If you intend to go further out of the city, you may want to conceal this fact when renting the motorbike. Out-of-city rentals can be up to twice as expensive as the in-city charge, even if you rent longer since it takes you longer.
By foot
[edit]This is the best way to traverse the maze of little streets in the old quarter and Hoan Kiem lakeside (which is traffic-free at weekends). From there it's a 1.5-km stroll to the Ho Chi Minh complex, 2 km to West Lake; follow usual local rules on traffic safety.
Of the two bridges across the Red River, the southern (Chương Dương) is for vehicles only and has no sidewalk. The northern (Long Biên) is for trains, bikes, motorbikes and pedestrians. This impressive century-old structure is almost 2 km long, and also serves a river islet of small plantations. It was a frequent target of bombing runs during the America-Vietnam War, but was rapidly repaired each time, becoming a national symbol of resilience. It is now a rusting hulk that would have been replaced long ago if not for its historical significance; the sidewalks are composed of thin concrete plates with slits that one can see the river below through. Walking across is not for the faint of heart.
See
[edit]Museums
[edit]
Near the city center
[edit]- 1 Fine Arts Museum (Bảo Tàng Mỹ Thuật), 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St (opposite Temple of Literature), ☏ +84 24 3733-2131. Daily 08:30-17:00. Only party-approved art is shown here with information in English and Vietnamese. On three floors of a colonial building, with another three galleries in the west wing. Pieces include soldiers on boats depicted on prehistoric bronze drums, Buddhist art, and revolutionary art of the 20th century wars. Also some interesting lacquer and silk paintings. Adult 40,000 dong.
- 2 Hồ Chí Minh Mausoleum. Tu-Th Sa Su 08:00-11:30. The city down south may have his name, but only Hanoi has the man himself, entombed in distinctly Lenin-esque fashion. Against his wishes, but that's how it goes. No talking, revealing clothing (shorts should be knee length and no exposed shoulders), or other signs of disrespect allowed while viewing; photos are allowed only from outside, in the grand Ba Dinh Square. Purses are allowed into the tomb, but expect them to be searched by several bored soldiers along the way. Left luggage is handled in a complicated scheme: there is an office near the street for large bags, with separate windows for Vietnamese and foreigners, and a further office for cameras, which will be transported to a third office right outside the exit of the mausoleum. Items checked in at the first office, however, will stay there. The mausoleum is closed for a couple months around the end of the year, when the body is taken abroad for maintenance. It is closed in the afternoons for maintenance. Free.
- 3 Hồ Chí Minh Museum, 19 Ngoc Ha St, Ba Dinh, ☏ +84 24 3846-3572, [email protected]. Daily 08:00-11:30, and Tu-Th Sa Su 14:00-16:00. This gleaming white museum and its gloriously ham-handed iconography is the perfect chaser to the solemnity of the mausoleum. The building, completed in 1990, is intended to evoke a white lotus. Some photos and old letters are on display on the second floor, but the main exhibition space is on the third floor. It includes cars crashing through walls to represent the chaos of post-war American capitalism, soldiers charging around with bombs that looked like electric plugs, a cave hideout re-imagined as the inside of Ho Chi Minh's brain, and several other postmodern confections integrated with the detailed main story of the man's life and his country's struggle. There are plenty of photographs, prison documents and newspaper cuttings tracing his life along the way. The tour ends with a burnt bridge signifying the separation of Vietnam, followed by a reconstructed bridge showing the unification of Vietnam after the war. One of the more informative museums in Vietnam. Free guides are available in English, French, Chinese and Russian. The displays are labelled in English and French. 40,000 dong.
- 4 Hồ Chí Minh's Vestige in the Presidential Palace Area, 1 Bach Thao, Ba Dinh, ☏ +84 4 0804 4529. Summer 07:30-11:00, 14:00-16:00; Winter 08:00-11:00, 13:30-16:00, closed M F afternoons. The exit from the mausoleum takes you right into the grounds of the, uh, vestige, where Ho Chi Minh lived and worked from 1954 until his death in 1969. The nicely landscaped complex includes Ho Chi Minh's two homes (one a small one-story house, the other a traditional stilt house), kept shiny and "as he left them" by the authorities, as well as a garage with two of Ho's presidential cars and a carp-filled pond. You also get to see Ho Chi Minh's work room and Politburo meeting room. The Presidential Palace is nearby, but it's not open to visitors. Pamphlets are available in English, Chinese, French and Korean. Guided tours are usually available if you wait. 40,000 dong.

- 5 National Museum of Vietnamese History (Bảo tàng Cách mạng Việt Nam), No 1 Trang Tien Street and 216 Tran Quang Khai Street. Daily 08:00-12:00 and 13:30-17:00, except first Monday of month. Actually two museums: one covers Vietnam from prehistoric times to 1945 and the other covers 1945 to present. This museum gives a very informed and detailed account of the Vietnamese struggle against first the French (starting in 1858—on the first floor), then against the US, ending on 30 Apr 1975 (on the ground floor). It is housed in a colonial French building which was completed in 1932. The building, designed by the architect Ernest Hébrard is considered as a successful blend between the colonial French architecture and traditional Vietnamese architecture, called Indochina architecture. He created double-walls and balconies for a natural ventilation system and protection from sunshine. 40,000 dong for both.
- 6 Vietnamese Women's Museum (Bảo Tàng Phụ nữ Việt Nam), 36 Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hoan Kiem District (Central Hanoi, 1 km S of Hoan Kiem Lake), ☏ +84 24 3825-9938, fax: +84 24 3825-9129, [email protected]. Daily 08:00-17:00. This often overlooked museum has benefited from an extensive renovation of its permanent exhibitions. The modernised interior is well laid out with information in Vietnamese, English and French, and contains a huge amount of information on the fearsome female heroines of Vietnamese history. There are also exhibitions on the rituals and traditions surrounding women in family, as well as a beautifully presented collection of intricate hand-made ethnic costumes. A highlight is the regularly updated special exhibitions on a diverse range of subjects, from contemporary issues such as single mothers and street vendors to traditional medicine and Mother Goddess worship. English language tours are available on request. 40,000 dong (80,000 dong with audioguide).
Further out
[edit]
- 7 Vietnam Military History Museum (Bảo tàng Lịch sử Quân sự Việt Nam), Km6+500, CT03, Tây Mỗ Ward, Nam Từ Liêm Dist. Tu-Th Sa Su 08:00-11:30 & 13:00-16:30; closed M F. Originally a modest museum located next to the Flag Tower, the Military History Museum and all its 150,000 artifacts has been relocated in 2024 to an enormous 39-hectare compound in the city's outskirts, 12 km from its original location. Now the largest and most modern museum in all of Vietnam, the imposing main building covers the country's military history extending back some two millennia. Item descriptions on museum exhibits are in Vietnamese and English, as are audioguides. The vast courtyard houses dozens of military vehicles, aircraft and artillery, many of which are captured French and American assets in the Indochina wars. Extremely popular with locals, the museum is usually completely packed on weekends, with dozens of tour buses ferrying out-of-town visitors to the site. Peak queuing times can exceed an hour as a result, so try to visit early on a weekday if possible.
- 8 Museum of Ethnology (Bảo tàng Dân tộc học Việt Nam), Nguyen Van Huyen St, Cau Giay District (Bus 14 from Hoan Kiem Lake - ask the conductor when to stop, and take a 500 m walk towards the museum (backtrack a little from the bus stop, and when you see a large street perpendicular to the street that you dropped off, take that street and walk down the street until you see the Museum of Ethnology to your left). Bus 38 goes from right outside the Temple of Literature to the street the museum is on). Tu-Su 08:30-17:30. Exhibitions cover mainly the culture and ritual practices of the various ethnic groups in the whole of Vietnam. One of the key attractions of the museum is the open-air exhibition, which has reconstructions of traditional houses from multiple ethnic groups, which even comes with inhabitants in costumes. The museum features actual explanations of the exhibits in Vietnamese, French and English. There is an excellent café on the premises. 40,000 dong for foreigners, extra 50,000 dong for photography..
- 9 Hanoi Museum (Bảo tàng Hà Nội), Pham Hung St, Cau Giay District. Tu-Su 08:00-11:30 & 13:30-17:00. Local natural and human history down the ages. Free.
- 10 Air Force Museum (Bảo Tàng Không Quân), Truong Chinh St (SW of city centre). There's a UH-1 helicopter, Soviet-built MiG fighters, a huge Mi-6 helicopter and other aircraft. Unfortunately they've been exposed to the elements for some time and local children climb over them.
Parks
[edit]- 11 Hoàn Kiếm Lake. A pleasant park in the centre of town, an easy walk from anywhere in the Old Quarter. This is the locals' favorite leisure spot; especially during weekends, when the lakeside streets are closed to traffic and becomes a pedestrian-only area. A great place to watch people practising tai chi in the morning or to sit and read in the afternoon. At weekends the park becomes even more popular as the normally busy road around it is pedestrianised, and instead filled with children driving electric cars or riding hoverboards. Hoàn Kiếm means "returned sword", and the name comes from a legend in which King Lê Lợi was given a magical sword by the gods, which he used to drive out the invading Chinese. Later, while boating on the lake, he encountered a giant turtle, which grabbed the sword and carried it down to its depths, returning it to the gods from whom it had come. (You can see a version of the legend at the Water Puppet Theatre.) The giant soft-shell turtles, whom Vietnamese biologists assigned to a separate species, Rafetus leloii, resided in the lake until the early 21st century. One of them, who died in 1968, has been preserved by the wonders of taxidermy, and can be viewed in a glass box (sarcophagus?) in a pavilion adjacent to Ngọc Sơn Temple on the island in the lake. Park is free; 30,000 dong admission to the island temple (玉山祠)..
Hoan Kiem lake in the city center - 12 Lý Thái Tổ Statue & Park (SE corner of lake). The park faces Hoàn Kiếm lake, with a beautiful view of the busy Hang Bai St. and the serenity of the willows on the bank of the lake. Many locals view this mini-park as their favourite place because it is a symbol of the integration of modernity and tradition. One might encounter a group of youths practising hip-hop, breakdancing, or playing foot-badminton, while at the same time seeing a three-generation family enjoying a walk in the park.
- 13 Hồ Tây (West Lake) (NW of the city). Mostly a residential hub of the well-to-do. The InterContinental West Lake, Sheraton Hanoi and Pan Pacific Hanoi are on this lake front.
- 14 Lenin Statue & Park (Dien Bien Phu St, across from the Army Museum). You can always feel the diversity and liveliness of Hanoi here. In the morning, there are low-energy aerobics class for elders and aerobics class for the young in the morning. During the day, one can enjoy the tranquility in the park since everybody is either at work or in school. In the afternoon, it becomes a playground for children, students, soccer teams, and badminton players.
Temples
[edit]
- 15 One-Pillar Pagoda (tucked away between the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Museum). Visitors find this either charming and lovely or utterly pointless, depending on how many tour groups are crammed into the small grounds at the time of their visit. It has a long history attached to it. Regarded as one of Vietnam's iconic temples, it was built by Emperor Lý Thái Tông. The emperor was childless and dreamt that he met the bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara, who handed him a baby son while seated on a lotus flower. He then married a peasant girl that he had met and she bore him a son. The emperor constructed the temple in gratitude for this in 1049 having been told by a monk to build the temple, by erecting a pillar in the middle of a lotus pond, similar to the one he saw in the dream. Before the pagoda was opened, prayers were held for the longevity of the monarch. The temple is built of wood on a single stone pillar 1.25 m in diameter, and it is designed to resemble a lotus blossom, which is a Buddhist symbol of purity, since a lotus blossoms in a muddy pond. In 1954, the French Union forces destroyed the pagoda before withdrawing from Vietnam after the First Indochina War, it was rebuilt afterwards. Free.
- 16 Ngọc Sơn Temple (玉山寺). Located on a small island in the Hoan Kiem Lake, connected with the mainland by a bridge. With small but attractive grounds, the temple displays on Vietnamese history and, more memorably, displays on the giant turtles, including a mummified specimen (who died in 1968). The two on-site gift shops vend a variety of souvenirs, many of them turtle-themed. Entry fee: 50.000 Dong
- 17 Temple of Literature (Văn Miếu / 文庙), Quốc Tử Giám St (a few blocks south of the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum). Daily 08:00-18:00. The Temple was founded in 1070 and became the country's first university six years later. The overall design is somewhat similar to the "original" Confucian Temple in Qufu, with 5 courtyards. Most of the architecture is named with titles indicating reverence to literature and language. The showpiece of the complex is the third courtyard with eighty-odd stone tablets, each mounted on the back of a tortoise (known as bixi in Chinese), inscribed with the names of graduates. Another courtyard is full of gift shops, which also sell stamps, coins, and books. A reduced-size replica of the famous giant softshell turtle (the original being at the Ngoc Son Temple at the Lake of the Returned Sword) can be seen in one of the pavilions as well; it was made by Vietnamese artisans out of ceramic, and gold-plated. The fourth courtyard contains a temple and statues devoted to Confucius and his four disciples. The fifth and last courtyard, which was destroyed by the French in 1946 and rebuilt in 2000, contains a mini-museum showcasing information on Emperor Lý Thánh Tông and his successors who built and renovated the temple. You may find a Vietnamese band playing local instrumental music in front of this museum. There are explanatory wall-hangings in English and French all along the way, and you don't need a guide. Adult 30,000 dong; student, senior or disabled person 15,000 dong; child under 15 free.
- 18 Quán Sứ Pagoda (Chùa Quán Sứ), 73 P. Quán Sứ. Daily 07:30-11:30, 13:30-17:30. The headquarters of Vietnamese Buddhism.
- 19 Trấn Quốc Pagoda (Chùa Trấn Quốc), 46 Đ. Thanh Niên, Trúc Bạch, Tây Hồ. The oldest Buddhist temple in Hanoi, on an island near the southeastern shore of West Lake.
Four Sacred Temples
[edit]The Four Sacred Temples (Thăng Long Tứ Trấn) were built at the four cardinal points of the Imperial City of Thăng Long to guard it from evil spirits. Although most of the city wall is long gone, all four temples survive to this day.
- 20 Bạch Mã Temple (Đền Bạch Mã), 76 Hang Buom St, Hoan Kiem District. The eastern temple, dedicated to Long Đỗ, the thành hoàng (city god) of Thăng Long (now Hà Nội), and represented in the temple as a white horse (Bạch Mã in Vietnamese, hence its name).
- 21 Quán Thánh Temple (Đền Quán Thánh), Đ. Thanh Niên, Quán Thánh, Ba Đình. The northern temple, dedicated to the Taoist god Xuanwu, known in Vietnamese as Trấn Vũ, with a large bronze statue of him at the main altar.
- 22 Voi Phục Temple (Đền Voi Phục), 306B Kim Ma St, Ngoc Khanh Ward, Ba Dinh District. The western temple, dedicated to Prince Linh Lang, a son of King Lý Thái Tông and his 9th concubine Dương Thị Quang, who was killed in action at the Battle of Như Nguyệt River in a war with China's Song Dynasty. The name Voi Phục means "kneeling elephant", and you can see two statues of elephants in a kneeling position at the front of the temple, hence its name.
- 23 Kim Liên Shrine (Đền Kim Liên), 148 P. Kim Hoa, Phương Liên, Đống Đa. The southern temple, dedicated to Cao Sơn Đại Vương, a Vietnamese mountain god who is said to be a son of King Lạc Long Quân of the ancient Hồng Bàng dynasty and his wife, the immortal mountain snow goddess Âu Cơ.
Chinese assembly halls
[edit]While Hanoi no longer has a Chinatown today, as most of the ethnic Chinese community was expelled to China in the wake of the 1979 Sino-Vietnamese War, two Chinese assembly halls remain in the former Chinatown area as a reminder of that lost community. They had been converted into schools for local children and long been hidden behind unsightly walls and fences, but were painstaking restored to their former glory in the 2010s.
- 24 Fujian Assembly Hall (Hội Quán Phúc Kiến / 福建會館), 40 P. Lãn Ông. Former assembly hall of the Chinese from Fujian province. It was converted to a primary school after the 1979 Sino-Vietnamese War, but was restored to its former glory in 2015, and is today used for some public functions.
- 25 Canton Assembly Hall (Hội Quán Quảng Đông / 粵東會館), 22 P. Hàng Buồm. Former assembly hall of the Chinese from Guangdong province. It was converted to a kindergarten after the 1979 Sino-Vietnamese War, but was restored to its former glory in 2021, and is now an exhibition space open to the public.
Miscellaneous
[edit]- 26 Hanoi Citadel. Built as a residence for the Vietnamese king, the citadel was mostly destroyed by the French, used as a military headquarters during the Vietnam War. It is now a
UNESCO World Heritage Site as "Central Sector of the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long - Hanoi".
- Hanoi Train Street. Buildings press up nearly to the railroad ties of the railway through central Hanoi, creating a narrow corridor for trains to pass through. Two stretches of rail corridor, just to the north and the south of Hanoi Station, are lined by restaurants and cafes. Several times a day, trains quickly pass close to the cafe seating. You'll have to buy a coffee, juice or a beer, but prices are reasonable. Safety concerns prompt occasional closures.
- 27 Hanoi Train Street (North), 5 Trần Phú, Hàng Bông, Hoàn Kiếm. Because of stupid tourists posing for selfies in front of oncoming trains, there are now police posted at the entrance to order people away. Cafe owners can bring you in through passageways nearby, however, so wander around to look for an invitation. Trains pass around 15:00 and 19:00 daily.
- 28 Hanoi Train Street (South), Ng. 222 Đ.Lê Duẩn, Khâm Thiên, Đống Đa (between Khâm Thiên and Ng. 222 Đ.Lê Duẩn). Trains pass several times daily, typically around 10:30, 15:00, and 19:00.
- 29 St. Joseph's Cathedral, Nha Tho, Hoàn Kiếm District. M-Sa 08:00-11:00, 14:00-17:00; Su 07:00-10:30, 15:00-21:00. A late 19th-century Gothic Revival church that serves as the cathedral of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Hanoi. Built by the French in 1886, the exterior is gaunt and grey, but the interior is light and peaceful. Mass is held several times a day, and for Sunday evening mass at 18:00 the crowds are huge: the service is broadcast to those outside who can't get in. Major renovation works to maintain the cathedral's structural integrity and restore its exterior paintwork were completed in 2022.
- 30 Presidential Palace, 2 Hùng Vương, Ngọc Hồ, Ba Đình. Completed in 1906 as the residence of the French Governor-General of Indochina. It became the official residence of the President of North Vietnam following independence in 1954, and later of the President of Vietnam following reunification in 1975. Ho Chi Minh was said to have refused to live in the palace for symbolic reasons, though he used it to receive state guests. The building is not open to the public, but you can view it from the outside and take photographs.
Wartime sites
[edit]- 31 B-52 Lake (Huu Tiep Lake), Ngoc Ha Precinct, Ba Dinh District. Until 19 Dec 1972, this was just a small brackish pond just off Hoàng Hoa Thám St., about 1 km west of the mausoleum. On that day, in a twisted retelling of the Hoan Kiem legend, Vietnamese anti-aircraft missiles blasted the enemy's eight-engine, 100-ton aircraft and sent it to the shallow bottom of the lake, where it remains today.

- 32 Downed Aircraft Memorial (Along Thanh Nien St on Truc Bach Lake). A stone plaque commemorating the shooting down of a US Navy (not "USAF" as depicted) aircraft in 1967. Read the Vietnamese script and you can pick out the name of John McCain, the late U.S. senator, one of the airmen.

- 33 Hỏa Lò Prison (Hanoi Hilton), 1 Hỏa Lò, Hoan Kiem. Daily 08:30-12:00, 14:00-16:30 (M & F from 08:00). This prison was built by the French at the turn of the 20th century, in classical French prison design. Two thirds of the prison was torn down to make way for the Hanoi Towers, and the rest was converted into a museum. This is where the French imprisoned and executed Vietnamese freedom fighters. The museum exhibits the plight of jailed political revolutionaries under the French colonial regime and the struggle of the Vietnamese people against imperialism in chilling detail. Later, during the America-Vietnam War, the prison held US prisoners of war that sarcastically referred to it as the "Hanoi Hilton". This period is not emphasized, except to present the official narrative of how humanely the POWs were treated, such as showing photos only of prisoners being treated well and playing basketball and playing chess. The museum claims to have the flight suit of John McCain, the most notable POW held here, from when his plane was shot down. Most of the exhibits have detailed English information, but you can also get an audioguide for 50,000 dong. 50,000 dong.
Do
[edit]- Flavors of Hanoi, 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, ☏ +84 967 258 586, ✉ [email protected]. 09:00-21:00. A local foodie experiences provider, they offer personal street food tours to help visitors explore Hanoi’s Old Quarter and French Quarter through their taste buds.
Cinemas
[edit]- August Movie Theater (Rap Thang 8) (On Hang Bai St, 5 min away from Trang Tien Plaza and the commercial area, such as Pho Hue, Hai Ba Trung and Trang Tien St). Renovated into a Nightclub
- CGV Cinemas (formerly Megastar), 191 Ba Trieu (on the 6th floor of the Vincom City Towers). The movies are relatively new, perhaps one or two months later than in the US. The movies are not dubbed although there are subtitles so both non-Vietnamese speakers and locals can enjoy them. 70,000-115,000 dong for 2D movies depending on day and time. 90,000-230,000 dong for 3D movies.
Cooking classes
[edit]- EZ Cooking Class, 49 Lane, 49 Huynh Thuc Khang St.
- EDUMA, 94 Lane, 49 Lo Duc St.
- Hanoi Cooking Centre, 44 Chau Long St (close to Truc Bac lake), ☏ +84 24 3715-0088. Cooking school, retail outlet and beautiful courtyard cafe with an excellent menu of Asian and Western favourites. Hands-on cooking classes and short courses in a relaxed atmosphere.
- Hidden Hanoi, 137 Nghi Tam Rd (aka Duong An Duong Vuong), Tay Ho (on the bund road in the Tay Ho District), [email protected]. Hidden Hanoi runs walking tours and cooking classes. There are many options including the 1-hr walking tour of the local market, followed by the 3-hr cooking class. Cooking class menus change daily, and there are other walking tours available. They also run language classes, and there is a dance school in the same building.
- Vietnam Culinary School, [email protected]. Fully equipped facilities to learn Vietnamese cooking. A typical day will commence with a visit to the morning market accompanied by an instructor to select ingredients for your cooking lesson. The class will be followed by a meal in a restaurant sampling your own cooking as well as traditional Vietnamese dishes.
- Học Viện Ẩm Thực, 60 Tran Nhan Tong.
Pampering
[edit]- SF Salon and Spa, 30 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem, ☏ +84 24 3926-2032. Nice, not too expensive spa with a range of services, including massages, manicures/pedicures, facials. They will pay for your one-way taxi fare to the spa. Friendly staff.
Rock climbing
[edit]- VietClimb, So 40 Ngo 76 An Duong, ☏ +84 914 548 903. Tu-Su 14:00-22:00. 200-m² climbing surface, a 50-m² café & terrace to chill out, and a climbing pro-shop. Also a great place for finding out where to climb immediately outside of Hanoi.
Theatre
[edit]- Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre, 57 Dinh Tien Hoang St (across from Hoan Kiem Lake), ☏ +84 24 3824-9494, fax: +84 4 824 5117. Musicians accompany folk legends from Vietnamese history, told with wooden men, women, and dragons, dancing and splashing on the face of the water. The narratives are sung in Vietnamese, but lyrics are available in several languages. Or just ignore the dialogue and narration and focus on the special effects. There are several performances throughout the day. Don't worry about getting wet, but the seats are very small, and visitors with above-average height will have to squirm a bit. Camera passes are an extra 20,000 dong.
- Hồng Hà Theater (Vietnam Tuồng Theatre), 51 Duong Thanh Street (inside Old Quarter) (walk: from northern tip of Hoan Kiem Lake go along Hang gai street to the west about 500 m then turn right at Duong Thanh street, the theater is on the right at number 51; by bus: take bus 01 stop at bus stop 30 Duong Thanh then walk about 30 m toward the north), ☏ +84 984 545 228, [email protected]. M Th 18:00-19:00. Hát tuồng (Hanoi: [háːt tûəŋ]) or hát bội (Saigon: [háːk ɓôjˀ]) is a form of Vietnamese theatre. Hát tuồng is often referred to as classical "Vietnamese opera" influenced by Chinese opera which combines acting, singing, and dancing. Tuồng employs the use of stock characters who are recognizable from their make-up and costumes, which are typically very elaborate and extravagant. Usually, a character's personalities can be revealed through three features: the color of the face, the eyebrows, and the beard.
In this 1 hour show, the artists will perform most interesting, unique and typical recitals from famous Tuongs (which typically last 1-2 hours). The show starts at 18:00 but from 17:30 the theater is open so the guests can interact with the artists, observe the performance preparation and try to sing, dance, play drum with the artists and enjoy traditional royal tea. The English leaflets will be provided for every guest which will introduce the content of each recital throughout the show. 150,000 dong. - Công Nhân Theater (Tu Phu (Four Palaces Show)), 42 Trang Tien street (from the Opera House walk down Trang Tien street 1 block, the Theater is on the right; from southern side of Hoan kiem lake, walk toward Trang tien street for 2 blocks, the theater is on the left), ☏ +84 902 195 650 (Vietnamese), +84 907 033 553 (English), [email protected]. Th Sa 18:00-18:45, 19:30-20:15. "Four Palaces” refers to the belief in the worship of Four Mother Goddesses, including Mother Goddess of Heaven, Mother Goddess of Forest, Mother Goddess of Water and Mother Goddess of Earth.The late 19th and early 20th centuries were the most flourishing periods of Mother Goddess religion in Viet folklore. There are times when Mother Goddess religion is considered as a manifestation of superstition and thus prohibited. However, the rituals of “Tứ Phủ” (Four Palaces), known by several other names, for instance, Tứ Phủ Công Đồng or Four Palaces Council, hát văn, chầu thánh, etc., still have a remarkable presence and strong reflection in Viet folk arts for several reasons:
1. Four Palaces is considered as a medium of lively communication of humans with Gods or Saints, divine beings who are familiar to Vietnamese both spiritually and in real life. The communications are organized as rituals by psychics or mediums who play roles of middlemen connecting people to divines. As such, it connected with Vietnamese in general.
2. Four Palaces is a lively form of art which collected many materials of folk arts, for example, hát chầu văn or chầu thánh (a traditional folk art which combines trance singing and dancing) and rites (ceremonies) as well as music with drum, flute and folk instruments; ritual dancing, rites of hầu đồng (hiển thánh) or ritual dress of sorceresses, etc. You can buy ticket online via website. USD5.49-12.95. - Hanoi Chèo Theatre (Show "Long Thanh Dien Xuong"), 1 Giang Văn Minh (across street from Kim Son Pagoda), ☏ +84 24 3845-7403. Th 17:30-18:30. Chèo (Vietnamese: [cɛ̂w]) is a form of generally satirical musical theatre, often encompassing dance, traditionally performed by Vietnamese peasants in northern Vietnam. It is usually performed outdoors by semi-amateur touring groups, stereotypically in a village square or the courtyard of a public building, although it is today increasingly also performed indoors and by professional performers. Chèo stage art is one of the great cultural heritage of the Vietnamese folk treasure. Chèo has been a popular art form of the Vietnamese people for many generations and has fostered the national spirit through its lyrical content. Show Long Thanh Dien Xuong introduces to the visitors different types of folk arts/performances which used to be common in the history, when Hanoi was the royal capital of Viet Kingdom: cheo, ca tru, chau van, xam, water puppet. 150,000 dong.
- 1 Hanoi Opera House, 01 Tràng Tiền, [email protected]. Built by the French during the colonial period, today it usually hosts classical music concerts and local Vietnamese plays and pop concerts rather than operas.
Buy
[edit]Money
[edit]Money exchange can be done at jewellery shops, which usually offer better rates than banks. The most popular ones are located along Ha Trung Rd (5-min walk from Hoan Kiem Lake) and Hang Bac. Just walk into the shop and ask them if they change money. Ask 5 or more shops to see which one gives the best rate. Hotels also often provide currency exchange service, but at terrible rates. Don't exchange money with people in the street, as the risk of getting counterfeit notes from them is high.
Markets
[edit]- Chợ Hôm (The equivalent meaning in English would be "Evening Market"), Pho Hue. A huge range of goods, and famous for the fabric market on the second floor. There are many kiosks selling different types of fabrics ranging from cheap, affordable to best quality with a high price. When shopping, take your time and never rush into buying anything. Sellers often quote a very high price that you can bargain down considerably.
- 1 Chợ Đồng Xuân. Famous for being the market for wholesalers. They have school supplies, stuffed animals, clothing. It is quite an experience to spend some time in the market observing the sellers and buyers.
- Chợ Hàng Da. A 6-storey building to house the market is under construction. All the kiosks are now in the neighbouring area, either on Phùng Hưng (second-hand clothing), Đường Thành, or Lý Nam Đế Streets. Sell a huge range of goods including pets, groceries, prepared foods and fabrics. It is now mostly empty.
- Night Market. Weekends from 19:00. The major north-south street in the Old Quarter, from Hoàn Kiếm Lake almost to the train overpass, becomes a crowded walking street with everything from pirated DVDs to traditional ornaments. Prices are negotiable, but "foreigner pricing" is fairly common. Thankfully many shops nowadays offer fixed prices with big "no bargaining" signs.
Bookstores
[edit]- Bookworm Hanoi, 44 Chau Long (Hanoi Cooking Center), ☏ +84 24 3715-3711, +84 912 561 800. New and used books.
- Small Vietnamese bookstores (nhà sách) line Phố Đinh Lễ St, just south of the large post office east of Hoan Kiem Lake. Most of them stock a variety of bilingual dictionaries, but hardly any books in English. Among them, as of 2016, Nhà Sách Lam seemed to have the best selection of maps (both Hanoi City and Vietnam regional).
- Most of the numerous souvenir shops inside the Temple of Literature (see under Museums; admission fee needs to be paid to get in) also carry a selection of books about Vietnam in English and other foreign languages (French, Spanish, Japanese), as well as culture- and history-oriented books in Vietnamese. Not a good place to shop for dictionaries or maps, though.
Supermarkets
[edit]Although most grocery shopping still happens in street markets (see above), supermarkets and convenience stores are becoming more common. As well as local mid-level and luxury brands, many supermarkets stock imported products such as California pistachios and almonds, European cheese, chocolates and wine, Korean kim chi, or Japanese seaweed snacks. Consumer staples, such as fresh produce or tofu may be considerably more expensive than in traditional markets.
- Vinmart is a fast growing chain of convenience stores and by far the most common brand in Hanoi, offering a selection of fresh products (including the "clean" Vineco range with less pesticides) as well as the staples you'd expect at similar stores worldwide. Western goods importer L's Place has a few branches, including one just south of the Hoa Lo prison on Ly Thuong Kiet and focuses on the expat market.
- Aeon Fivimart is a large supermarket with a central branch east of Hoan Kiem Lake (27A Ly Thai To, at Tran Nguyen Han). The similarly named but separately owned Aeon Citimart is in Hanoi Towers on the site of the former Hoa Lo prison. Meanwhile, the huge but further afield Lotte Mart, located in the basement of the Lotte Center (Hanoi's second-tallest building; at the corner of Đào Tấn and Liễu Giai, a few blocks south of West Lake - the word "Lotte" on the tower makes it easy to find), may be one of the best of the breed, with a good bakery and cafeteria section. Open 08:00-22:00.
- If you've a particular desire to spend double the usual price on a selection of boutique imported Western goods (French Comte cheese, Iberico ham, British ale), Annam Gourmet have a store in the Syrena Centre at 51 Xuân Diệu St. in Tây Hồ. Largest selection of imported cheeses in town.
Discriminatory pricing
[edit]Most shops quote much higher prices for tourists (including Vietnamese people from other regions) than for locals, and the belief that tourists are rich and hence should pay more than locals is firmly entrenched in the local culture. As such, most vendors will insist that as a tourist, you pay the tourist price and will refuse to let you bargain the price down to the local price even if you know what it is. If you have a trusted local friend, you can save a fair bit of money by getting your friend to buy the item you want in your absence.
Eat
[edit]Hanoi's most famous (and prevalent) dish is phở soup: "phở gà" (chicken noodle soup), "phở bò" (beef noodle soup), or "phở chay" (tofu noodle soup). Another local specialty is bún chả, grilled fatty pork over a plate of white rice noodles and herbs with dipping sauce.
There are hundreds of street restaurants in small kiosks on the sidewalk, with plastic tables and chairs on the pavement. Eating at these restaurants is a great way to experience the local food and culture. It is worth mentioning that food quality, freshness, and hygiene can vary greatly. On average, a bowl of noodle soup goes for 40-60,000 dong (June 2024) and market food stalls offer fruit portions, sausages, doughnuts and other foods. Check your change as a few vendors seem to forget to give it, and learn a little Vietnamese because vendors often will not speak any or much English (e.g. "bao nhiêu ?", meaning "how much?").
Exotic treats
[edit]Next to Beijing, Hanoi is probably the second in the running to the world's exotic food paradise.
- Snake Restaurants (about ten minutes across the river from the city centre, take Bus 10, 15 or 17 and get off at the large mall" just beyond Gia Lâm station, and walk 500 m down the road at the right of the mall). The suburb of Le Mat (aka Snake Village) has numerous restaurants specializing in cobra foodstuffs. Live cobras are stored on the premises much the same way one would find live lobsters at a Western seafood restaurant. If one orders cobra blood wine from the menu, the waiter will take a live cobra, kill it on the spot, drain the blood into a shot glass of rice wine and top it off with the cobra's still beating heart for you to gulp down. Not for animal lovers or the ecologically-minded. Cobras are not cheap, but one snake becomes a dozen unique dishes, and enough to share between 3-4 people. Rượu rắn is cobra steeped whole in rice wine – or, especially in tourist areas, perhaps a cheaper, non-poisonous snake with similar coloring whose body has been stretched to give it the expected shape. Carefully investigate customs restrictions before deciding to bring a few bottles home, as some of the snakes used are endangered species.
A local delicacy in the Hanoi area is dog meat (thịt chó), which is especially popular in the winter. There are a number of dog restaurants in the Tay Ho district. Another exotic regional taste is cà cuống, an extract from the belostomatid or giant water bug. Just a few drops are added to noodles for the unique aroma.
Boiled duck foetus eggs (trứng vịt lộn) are sold by pedlars almost everywhere. The experience consists of the vendor cracking the egg in front of you, and peeling the shell and dropping the contents in a plastic bowl, then garnished with julienned ginger, Vietnamese coriander (rau răm) and sprinkled with chili sauce. You can see the severed head and beak of your chick that fell off if you are lucky enough to have your first bite from a different spot.
Street Food
[edit]Around the Beer Street
[edit]- 1 Bánh Mì Dân Tổ, 32 Đ. Trần Nhật Duật. The sandwich is very delicious and crispy. Pretty crowded. You can also eat there at 3am and it will feel delicious.
Budget
[edit]Around the Beer Street
[edit]- 2 Bun Cha Ta Hanoi, 21 Nguyễn Hữu Huân. Highly recommended if you are looking for authentic North Vietnamese Bun Cha. The food is great, bursting with flavour. Very cosy place.
- 3 Bánh Mì 25, 25 P. Hàng Cá. Vietnamese Sandwiches. This is a good restaurant for a quick bite to eat near Dong Xuan Market. Lovely place and mouth watering food.
- 4 Little Hanoi Restaurant, 16 P. Hàng Bè. Simple Vietnamese home-cooked food. Also amazing vegan food. The fried tofu in tomato sauce and grilled eggplant are delicious. Also a cute date spot.
- 5 Banh Mi Hoi An, 98 P. Hàng Bạc. Vietnamese Sandwiches. This place is open from early morning and serves great bahn mi. Nice staff with good English skills.
- 6 Quán Cơm Bình Dân, 20 P. Bảo Linh. 11:00-14:00. Inexpensive, home-cooked Vietnamese meals. Delicious and nutritious rice, clean restaurant.
Around the Hoan Kiem Lake
[edit]- 7 Bún Chả Đắc Kim, 1 Hang Manh (Old Quarter near Hang Da Market), ☏ +84 915 177 766, +84 24 3828-5022, +84 16 9777 6666. 08:00-19:00. Some rate this as one of the best examples of bún chả in Hanoi, and therefore Vietnam (apparently in the south, bún chả is specifically advertised as Hanoi-style). For 100,000 dong each, you'll get a bowl full of tiny minced-pork rissoles that have been chargrilled over an open flame and a massive plate of pork rice paper rolls that have been fried in oil twice. You also get a phenomenal dipping sauce (fish sauce, made from sugar, garlic, peppers usually), a massive plate of greens and herbs and more bun (rice noodle) than you can handle. It is now more touristy than it used to be. Great food, but expect rude service. There is another 8 Bún Chả Đắc Kim in 67 Đường Thành.
- 9 Pho 10 Ly Quoc Su, 10 P. Lý Quốc Sư (On the corner of Nha Chung and Chan Cam). Serve delicious beef rice noodle, fried bread stick is crispy and delicious. The place is so clean and nice. All of the soups and sides include beef (bo), so this isn't for vegetarians.
- 10 Pho Tu Lun (Au Trieu), 34 P. Ấu Triệu. Many pho varieties. Store is only open in the morning. Locals crowd the place, so you know it must be good.
Near the city center
[edit]- 11 Com Chay Nang Tam Vegetarian Restaurant, 79A Pho Tran Hung Dao (a few streets S of the lake), ☏ +84 936 424 140, +84 24 3942-4140, [email protected]. Daily 10:00-21:00. This excellent restaurant is a good vegetarian option, and will please both vegetarians and non-vegetarians with its wide range of innovative dishes, which include fake meat dishes. Restaurant is comfortable with good ambience, and is good value. Well worth the short walk out of the old town.
Outside the city center
[edit]- 12 Au Lac Vegetarian Restaurant, 277 Ng. Văn Chương (take Le Duan S, past train tracks, turn into alley after #114). Daily, 07:00-20:30. Typical local vegetarian restaurant like you'll find everywhere in Vietnam except Hanoi, a little off the beaten track in an atmospheric alleyway.
Mid-range
[edit]Around the Hoan Kiem Lake
[edit]- 13 Huyen Huong Restaurant, 20 Bao Khanh, ☏ +84 24 3828-8430. Choose from a wide variety of seafood dishes (many of which are swimming around in tanks) and other Vietnamese specialities. Friendly staff complements the tasty food. from 80,000 dong.
- 14 Kaiser Kaffee Restaurant, 34A Ba Trieu. Interesting little place which has excellent Vietnamese and Western food.
- 15 Little Hanoi, 16 P. Hàng Bè, ☏ +84 24 3928-5333. Upscale cafe serving mainly Westerners in a pleasantly lit restaurant.
- 16 Mediterraneo, 23 Nhà Thờ St., Hoàn Kiếm (between La Salsa and Paris Deli), ☏ +84 24 3826-6288. Daily 10:00-22:00. Authentic Italian food, probably the best you'll get in Hanoi. Prices are steep and portions small. Mains from 195K to 490K dong (Aug 2021).
- 17 Moka Café, P. Nhà Thờ (Nha Tho St close to the cathedral). Excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese food served in a coffee shop environment.
- 18 Pepperoni's, 98 P. Hàng Trống. Part of a small international chain of pizza restaurants. Locally run, they do regular special offers such as free desserts, eat-all-you-can buffets and loyalty schemes, whereby collecting tokens with each take-out entitles you to a free pizza. Pizzas, burgers, ice cream and apple crumble.
- 19 01 -wan- Tantan Ramen, 63 Lãn Ông St., Hoàn Kiếm, ☏ +84 766 645 001. Daily 11:00-22:00. Two-floor ramen shop owned by a Japanese chef, specialising in excellent tantanmen with creamy, Sichuan-inspired "numbing spicy" mala broth. Ramen bowls from 180-200k dong.
At the West Lake
[edit]- 20 Dalcheeni, 100 Xuân Diệu St., Tây Hồ, ☏ +84 24 3266-8453, [email protected]. Daily 10:30-14:30, 17:30-22:30. Authentic Indian restaurant with classy interior and good view of West Lake, frequented by Indian expats; restaurant manager is a Goa native. All meat served is halal, with extensive vegetarian options available. Highly recommend the tandoor-grilled chicken, lamb and broccoli dishes. Reservations recommended. Mains from 100K to 350K dong (Aug 2021).
- 21 Cửa Hàng Ăn uống Mậu dịch số 37 (State-Run Food Shop No. 37), 158 Trấn Vũ St., Trúc Bạch, Ba Đình, ☏ +84 24 3715-4336. Daily: 10:00-14:00, 17:00-21:00. A kitschy throwback to Vietnam's impoverished subsidy era, emulating the government-subsidised eateries of the 1970s; the interior is lined from top to bottom with period artifacts, while food is served in historically-accurate cheap tin bowls. A tad pricier than what you'd expect for such rustic food, but the overall experience makes up for it. Order the signature cơm cháy mắm tép (scorched rice with shrimp paste) and tóp mỡ (pork crackling). 100-200k dong per person.
Around the Train Street
[edit]- 22 Quán Ăn Ngon (Delicious), 18 Phan Boi Chau St. Wide range of choices of dishes from everywhere in Vietnam at reasonable prices. Limited seating and many customers, so a wait is certain. They have a large seating area so customers do not have to wait long. Serves both lunch and dinner.
Outside the city center
[edit]- 23 Ramen Haron, 40 Linh Lang, Ba Đình (just inside Alley 2, immediately after 40 Linh Lang), ☏ +84 832 543 165. M-Sa 11:30-13:45, 17:30-22:00. Hole-in-the-wall ramen joint in Hanoi's "Japantown", frequented by Japanese expats; some staff speaks Japanese. Excellent quality and variety of ramen at very reasonable prices. Reservations recommended due to limited seating; takeaway and home deliveries also available. Ramen bowls from 150K-170K dong (Aug 2021).
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