Gaspé's paramount importance in the colonial history of North America is unbeknownst even to many Québécois. Indeed, this city lays claim to the title of "Cradle of French America": in 1534, seven years before his failed attempt to establish a settlement at Cap-Rouge (and nearly three-quarters of a century before the foundation of Quebec City), the famous explorer Jacques Cartier, while sheltering in Gaspé Bay during a storm, came ashore briefly somewhere in the city and planted a crude wooden cross in the ground in the name of the French crown, thus setting the 200-year history of "New France" in motion. The indigenous Mi'kmaq people referred to the area as gespeg (meaning "land's end"; a reference to Cap-Gaspé at the east end of the peninsula), which was Gallicized by the colonists into its current name.

Despite its historical significance, the area remained a backwater for pretty much the entire two-century period of French rule. It was not until 1763 when settlement of what is now Gaspé began in earnest — and those first settlers were Englishmen, to whom Gaspesian land was given away free of charge after control of Quebec was firmly in British hands. They were followed in short order by waves of French-speaking Acadians expelled from their former homes in Nova Scotia, "United Empire Loyalists" driven out of what's now the United States after the revolution there, and immigrant fishermen and shipbuilders (the latter largely hailing from Jersey) who came from Europe to take advantage of the rich cod fishery in the surrounding waters. Gaspé's first post office opened in 1804, and the village was officially incorporated in 1855.

Gaspé hit its stride in the 19th century, with an economy centred around its importance as a port for the trans-Atlantic shipping trade — indeed, for a brief time around the turn of the century Gaspé figured among Canada's major seaports, with hundreds of foreign ships every year pulling into the deep, sheltered bay to take advantage of the city's status as a duty-free port, hundreds more setting off for distant lands with stocks of wood pulp, copper ore, dried cod, and other local goods, an impressive presence of branch consulates of countries such as Italy, Norway, and Brazil helping to further grease the gears of international trade, and a culture much more multilingual and cosmopolitan than the sleepy fishing and logging villages elsewhere in the region. However, despite the arrival of the railway in 1911, Gaspé's port was unable to compete with larger and more centrally-located alternatives like Montreal and Halifax, and today it derives its significance mostly as a regional centre of population, business, and industry; the kind of place small-town folks from around the region head to go shopping, have a nice dinner out, and enjoy a semblance of city life.

Gaspé Forillon is the official tourism website for the titular city and park: a comprehensive source of information including a visitor's guide, listings of hotels, restaurants and events, a lovely photo album, and even a mobile app for iPhone and Android users to download.

Gaspé's main Tourist Information Centre (Bureau d'information touristique de Gaspé) is located in the former VIA Rail station at 8, rue de la Marina, just across the bridge from downtown Gaspé. It's open year-round on weekdays from 8:30AM to 4:30PM.

A number of the outlying hamlets that make up the modern-day city have their own tourist information centres. The 49.08352-64.5564671 L'Anse-à-Valleau Tourist Information Centre at 884, boulevard de l'Anse-à-Valleau is open daily 9AM-5PM from June 12 through September 30. Additionally, the building at 17, rue de la Langevin that houses the Forillon Yacht Club (Club nautique Forillon) and the Fishery Interpretive Centre (Centre d'interprétation des pêches) also does triple duty as the home of the Rivière-au-Renard Tourist Information Kiosk, open between June and September.

As with the vast majority of the peninsula's cities and towns, Provincial Route 132 — Quebec's main trunk road along the south shore of the St. Lawrence river and estuary — serves as Gaspé's main drag.

Coming from the direction of Montreal and Quebec City, follow Autoroute 20 eastward until the highway dead-ends at Trois-Pistoles. From there, make a left, following the signs for Route 132, then turn right and proceed eastward 314 km (195 miles) to L'Anse-Pleureuse. From there onward, you have several options:

• The quickest and most direct route into Gaspé would have you turning right at the junction with Provincial Route 198, the inland route via Murdochville that dumps you directly in the town centre. However, this option comes at the expense of missing out on the most majestic of the Gaspé Peninsula's shoreline scenery, and it's not really that much shorter.
• You can also follow Route 132 itself all the way into town, though the route it takes is circuitous indeed: after entering the city limits and passing through L'Anse-à-Valleau, Rivière-au-Renard, and other outer hamlets on a southeastward trajectory along the shore of the St. Lawrence, the road turns sharply to the southwest at Cap-des-Rosiers, winding and meandering its way through Forillon National Park before doubling back toward the northwest along the shore of Gaspé Bay. From there, it crosses over the mouth of the Dartmouth River and turns yet again toward the southeast on its final approach to Gaspé's town centre.
• The Goldilocks option, which is almost as fast as the inland route via Murdochville and also lets you enjoy most of that scenery, involves turning south on Provincial Route 197 at Rivière-au-Renard and rejoining Route 132 just before the aforementioned bridge over the Dartmouth River, thus cutting off the sinewy Forillon portion of the route.

Depending on which of those routes you take, from Quebec City to Gaspé you're looking at a drive of anywhere between seven-and-a-half and eight-and-a-half hours, excluding stops. If you're coming directly from Montreal, add another two and a half hours.

If you're coming from the direction of the Maritimes or certain parts of New England, the route is much more straightforward: pass through New Brunswick via Provincial Route 17, cross into Quebec at Campbellton, then follow Route 132 east from there. Gaspé is about 330 km (205 miles) past the provincial border, a drive of roughly three and a half hours excluding stops.

• Orléans Express, Motel Adams at 20, rue Adams, ☏ +1-450-640-1477, toll-free: +1-833-449-6444. Operates bus routes within Quebec and to Ottawa. (updated Apr 2022)
  • Two routes operate daily between Gaspé and Rimouski. The routes travel as follows:
    • Route follows the St. Lawrence River along the north side of Gaspé Peninsula. Includes stops in Grande-Vallée, Sainte-Anne-des-Monts, Matane, and Mont-Joli. Travel time time to Gaspé from Matane is 5 hours, from Mont-Joli is 6 hours, from Rimouski is 6.5 hours.
    • Route follows the south side of the Gaspé Peninsula to near the provincial border with New Brunswick and travels inland to and from the St. Lawrence River. Includes stops in Percé, Chandler, Bonaventure, Pointe-à-la-Croix, Amqui, and Mont-Joli. Travel time time to Gaspé from Rimouski is 8.5 hours, from Mont-Joli is 8 hours, from Pointe-à-la-Croix is 4.5 hours, from Bonaventure is 3 hours, and from Percé is 50 minutes.
      • Maritime Bus operates buses to Campbellton, NB, which is a 2 km taxi ride to Pointe-à-la-Croix, QC. Maritime Bus connects communities in New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward Island.
  • In the case of both routes, same day transfers are possible to and from Quebec City (involving a transfer at Rimouski) and Montreal (involving transfers at Rimouski and Quebec City). Travel time to Gaspé From Quebec City is 11.75 hours and from Montreal is 14.5 hours.

The main trunk line of the Route Verte — the largest network of bicycle routes on the American continent, with tentacles stretching over the entire province of Quebec — passes through the Gaspé Peninsula. Route Verte 1 largely follows the course of Provincial Route 132, though construction of bike lanes and other infrastructure is not yet complete throughout the entirety of the route. Indeed, Gaspé is accessible by bike from Percé and points south by way of a bike lane along the side of Route 132, but approaching from the other direction along the St. Lawrence, cyclists along 132 must ride directly in traffic lanes for 82 km (51 miles) between Sainte-Madeleine-de-la-Rivière-Madeleine and Rivière-au-Renard, where the roadside bike lanes finally re-emerge.

For details of Route Verte 1's trajectory through the city of Gaspé itself, see the corresponding section below.

The International Appalachian Trail (IAT; in French Sentier international des Appalaches or SIA) traverses Gaspé at the tail end of the North American mainland portion of its route. For long-distance hikers approaching from the west, the scenario is at first a continuation of the relatively easy and flat terrain they've been enjoying for the past several kilometres (miles): after crossing into the Gaspé city limits, the trail first hews closely to the coast and/or Route 132 and then, after a brief but steep climb about 2.5 km (a mile and a half) past Grand-Étang, passes along the crest of a high ridge slightly inland. There, you can link up if you like with the Windmills Trail (Sentier éolien), a 6.3 km (nearly 4-mile) loop through the Cartier Énergie Éolienne wind farm. After that, it's a slow and gradual descent back toward the St. Lawrence, passing by the lighthouse at Pointe-à-la-Renommée on another easy stretch of trail. After L'Anse-à-Valleau, though, the script flips: you take a sharp turn inland, loping over hill and dale through dense pine and birch forest, then you turn east through a verdant river valley and continue into Forillon National Park.

Sépaq, the provincial park and wildlife service, operates a number of backcountry campsites and lean-to shelters along the Québécois portion of the IAT. See below for information on the ones within Gaspé.

Located at 10, rue de la Marina, the marina at the 48.827984-64.4779282 Jacques Cartier Nautical Club accommodates visitors arriving by boat with over 90 slips just outside of the city centre. In 2017, non-members were charged $1.55 per foot per day for docking, with longer-term visitors enjoying a 50% discount for every third day. If you're rigging your sailboat to a boom instead, it's $18/day. Launch fees apply as well; see the marina's website for details on those.

Gaspé's 48.827057-64.4778612 Intermodal Transport Station (Gare intermodale) is located at 8, rue de la Marina, just across from the city centre. Train service into Gaspé provided by VIA Rail's Montreal-Gaspé line, has been suspended since 2013 Though VIA Rail intends to resume service once repairs are made, there's no timetable for when that might happen, and the Montreal-Gaspé line may just be eliminated.

• 48.842225-64.4913213 Discount Car Rental, 164, boulevard de Gaspé, ☏ +1 418-368-1970. M-F 8AM-5:30PM. (updated Jan 2018)
• Enterprise Rent a Car, 60, rue de l'Aéroport (at Michel Pouliot Airport), ☏ +1 418-368-1541. M-F 7:30AM-9PM, Su 5PM-9PM. (updated Jan 2018)
• National Car Rental, 60, rue de l'Aéroport (at Michel Pouliot Airport), ☏ +1 418-368-1541. M-F 7:30AM-9PM, Su 5PM-9PM. (updated Jan 2018)

In the city of Gaspé, Route Verte 1 exists in three discontinuous segments:

• From Rivière-au-Renard, roadside bike lanes along Route 132 extend eastward for 10 km (6½ miles) into L'Anse-au-Griffon, then divert inland along a gravel-paved off-road trail through Forillon National Park. At the other end of the park, it's another 19.5 km (12 miles) of bike lanes along 132 between La Penouille and the corner of Rue Louise, just outside of Gaspé town centre.
• Beginning at the rear parking lot of the Carrefour de Gaspé shopping centre near the harbour, Route Verte 1 picks back up, following the course of an asphalt-paved off-road "rail trail" for 10 km (a little more than 6 miles) through Sandy Beach and into Haldimand, terminating at the intersection of Route 132 with rue de la Plage. This is arguably the most pleasant of the three segments, with nice views across the bay toward Forillon and precious few hills to contend with.
• A short distance west of Haldimand, on-road bike lanes re-emerge along Route 132 and continue southward past the airport, through Douglastown, and across the city line into Percé.

In the breaks between these segments, the trajectory of Route Verte 1 nominally proceeds along Route 132. However, for the time being, cyclists must ride directly in traffic lanes through these discontinuities as bike lanes and other infrastructure have yet to be constructed.

Bike rental is available from:

• Auberge Griffon Aventure, in L'Anse-au-Griffon at 829, boulevard du Griffon — from early May through mid-October, at a rate of $10 per half-day (9AM-12:30PM or 1:30 PM-dusk) or $20 all day.
• the 48.833866-64.4852253 Marcel Bujold Sports Complex (Pavillon des sports Marcel-Bujold), on the campus of Gaspé Peninsula and Îles de la Madeleine Community College (Cégep de la Gaspésie et des Îles) — call +1 418-368-6939 for rates and availability.

Taxi service is available from:

• Dery, ☏ +1 418-269-3348. 
• Fortin et Fils, ☏ +1 418-269-3454. 
• Porlier, ☏ +1 418-368-3131. 

The parking lot of Place Jacques-Cartier shopping centre in downtown Gaspé serves as the main hub for RéGÎM, the regional public bus network serving the Gaspé Peninsula and the Îles de la Madeleine. No fewer than six of the system's bus routes begin, end, or pass through this nexus.

Routes that are contained entirely within Gaspé's city limits include:

• Route 20, which departs every weekday at 6:30AM from the 49.085969-64.5630944 L'Anse-à-Valleau Post Office (Bureau de poste de l'Anse-à-Valleau) at 922, boulevard de l'Anse-à-Valleau, passing through Petit-Cap, Rivière-au-Renard, and Saint-Majorique and arriving at Place Jacques-Cartier at 7:33AM. Return trips depart daily at 4:47PM and arrive in L'Anse-à-Valleau at 5:36PM.
• Route 21, which departs every weekday at 6:29AM from 48.937577-64.3090675 Dépanneur Bilodeau at 2, chemin du Portage in L'Anse-au-Griffon, passing through Forillon National Park and Saint-Majorique and arriving at Place Jacques-Cartier at 7:35AM. Return trips depart each weekday at 4:47PM and arrive in L'Anse-au-Griffon at 5:38PM.
• Route 23, a loop through Gaspé's western outskirts including the communities of Wakeham, Sunny Bank, and York. There are two trips every weekday: a morning run that departs Place Jacques-Cartier at 7:40AM, returning at 8:25AM, and an afternoon "express" run (passing over most of the stops within Gaspé's city centre) that departs at 3:45PM and returns at 4:19PM.
• Route 24, a loop through Gaspé's southeastern outskirts including the communities of York, Haldimand, and Sandy Beach. Buses depart Place Jacques-Cartier every morning at 7:40AM, returning at 8:30AM.

Routes that arrive in Gaspé from outlying towns include:

• Route 22, which departs every weekday at 6:40AM from L'Anse-à-Beaufils, stopping at Place Jacques-Cartier at 7:38AM, and ending its run a short distance east of the city centre at 48.836816-64.4770836 C. E. Pouliot High School (École C.-E.-Pouliot) at 7:47AM. Return trips depart the high school at 5:50PM, pass by Place Jacques-Cartier at 6:02PM, and arrive in L'Anse-à-Beaufils at 7:02PM.
• Route 26, which runs Friday only, departing at 8:45AM from Murdochville, stopping at Place Jacques-Cartier at 10AM, and ending its run at Gaspé Hospital in York at 10:25AM. Return trips depart the hospital at 4PM, pass by Place Jacques-Cartier at 4:25PM, and arrive in Murdochville at 5:15PM. There's also an abbreviated midday run between the hospital and Place Jacques-Cartier only, with departures from the former at 1PM arriving at the latter at 1:25PM, and in the reverse direction departing at 1:20PM and arriving at 1:45PM.

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Map of Gaspé

Fare is payable in cash ($4) or with tickets ($3 apiece, available in books of ten from participating retailers or directly from the bus drivers). If you're planning on making heavy use of RéGÎM during your stay in the Gaspé Peninsula, it might be useful to buy a prepaid Access Card (available online for $5), which are good for a whole month and entitle you to the same discounted $3 fare as tickets.

The Gaspé Peninsula is first and foremost an outdoor destination: the stunning views of forest-cloaked mountains and wave-battered shorelines visible from every window practically command visitors to emerge into the fresh air and majestic wilderness. But of course, the weather in this part of the world isn't always cooperative — and if you've got a rainy-day hankering to switch gears and learn a little more about the region's fascinating history and culture, the city of Gaspé is the place to be.

Your first stop should be...

• 48.836357-64.4746281 Gaspé Regional Museum (Musée de la Gaspésie), 80, boulevard de Gaspé, ☏ +1 418-368-1534. Jun-Oct daily 9AM-5PM; Nov-May W-F 10AM-5PM & Sa-Su 12:30PM-5PM. The Gaspé Regional Museum's purview cuts a broad swath, covering the rich history, charming culture, and surprisingly vibrant art scene of the region. In the museum's main exhibit, "Gaspésie... A Grand Journey" (Gaspésie... Le Grand voyage), the region's story is told through the mouths of the men and women who shaped it, but that's just the beginning: fans of old-fashioned chanson can peruse a collection of old photos and heirlooms belonging to Mary "La Bolduc" Travers, the so-called "Queen of Canadian Folk Singers" who lived in Newport just down the road, and those interested in the history of the Gaspesian cod fishery — once the linchpin of the area's economy — can step aboard the Gaspésienne No. 20, a historic fishing boat restored and outfitted to its original appearance, and/or strap on a virtual-reality headset and "set out" on Gaspé Bay with a pair of friendly fishermen to learn more. There's also a range of temporary exhibits focusing on more specific aspects of Gaspesian identity (check website for current offerings), extensive archives of documents and artifacts for researchers, an onsite bistro, and a gift shop selling original artwork and gifts produced by local artists and artisans. Museum entry $11, students (18+ with school ID) and seniors (65+) $9.25, children (6-17) $5.25, children 5 and under free. Virtual-reality film is $6.50 per person. Discounts available for admission to both museum and film and to families; see website for detailed price breakdown. (updated Feb 2018)

• 48.837238-64.475312 In Memory of Her (En mémoire d'Elle). Located on the grounds of the Gaspé Regional Museum, this concrete statue — the work of Percé native Renée-Mao Clavet — was dedicated in 2013 in honour of the contribution of women to Quebecois history and society. 5 metres (16 feet) in height, the sculpture depicts a pregnant woman in a flowing skirt, with a face designed in an ambiguous way so as to be representative of Francophone, Anglophone, and First Nations women alike. The book and the satchel of traditional medicinal herbs that the figure carries symbolize women's contributions to the fields of education and medicine. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.837088-64.4746933 Jacques Cartier Monument National Historic Site (Lieu historique national du monument à Jacques Cartier). Also situated on the grounds of the museum, with an apropos setting overlooking the bay roughly halfway between In Memory of Her and the museum building itself, is this cluster of six upright granite tablets, carved on one side with bas-relief sculptures depicting Cartier's historic landing at Gaspé on July 24, 1534 — the founding date of the colony of New France — and inscribed on the other with passages from the journals of both Cartier and Father Chrestien Leclerq, who accompanied him on the expedition. (updated Feb 2018)

Then, if you want to dig deeper, you might also check out the following attractions.

• 48.994732-64.3869834 Fishery Interpretive Centre (Centre d'interprétation des pêches), 17, rue de la Langevin, ☏ +1 418-360-3631. M-Sa 9:30AM-5:30PM, late Jun through late Aug. Rivière-au-Renard once had one of the busiest fishing harbours in the region, and this interpretive centre traces its history from the glory days of the Gaspesian cod fishery to the cutting-edge, technology-driven industry of today. You can even sample freshly-caught local seafood onsite! Call for rates. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.82765-64.4842235 Gaspé, Birthplace of Canada (Gaspé, Berceau du Canada), 179, montée Wakeham, ☏ +1 418-368-9423. W 9:30AM-6PM, all other days 10:30AM-6PM, late Jun through mid-Sept. Located on the waterfront across from Place Jacques-Cartier, this cluster of about a half-dozen buildings operates as a sort of miniature living-history museum depicting the village of Gaspé as it was around 1900, complete with interpreters in period costume. Tuck in to a nice meal at the tavern, explore the fish warehouse and old general store, tour the Horatio Leboutillier House (the genuine article, built c. 1850), or take off on one of the walking tours of modern-day downtown Gaspé that begin and end here. At the centre of it all is a granite replica of Jacques Cartier's cross, dedicated in 1934 on the occasion of the 400th anniversary of his landing. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.872217-64.552266 Gespeg Mi'kmaq Interpretive Site (Site d'interprétation micmac de Gespeg), 783, boulevard de Pointe-Navarre, ☏ +1 418-368-7449. Daily 9AM-5PM, mid-Jun through mid-Oct. The Gespeg Mi'kmaq Interpretive Site's goal is to expose visitors to the culture of the Mi'kmaq people, who inhabited the Gaspé Peninsula and adjacent lands for centuries before the arrival of Europeans, as well as chronicling more recent chapters of local First Nations history since the 17th century. Volunteers are on hand to lead folks on guided tours through a reconstructed village, interpretive exhibits and artifacts detail Mi'kmaq history, cosmology, and everyday life, and there's even a display of medicinal herbs and plants used in traditional Mi'kmaq culture. As well, in the gift shop you'll find a range of authentic handicrafts produced by local artisans. $11, seniors (65+) $9.50, children 7-15 and students with ID $8.50, children 6 and under free, $32 for families of two adults and two children. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.932298-64.3016517 Le Boutillier Manor Socio-Cultural Centre (Centre socioculturel Manoir Le Boutillier), 578, boulevard du Griffon, ☏ +1 418-892-5150. Daily 9AM-5PM, mid-Jun through mid-Oct. This National Historic Site of Canada was once the cozy timber-framed house of John Le Boutillier, a shipbuilding magnate and local politico who, in his day, was one of the most prominent citizens in the hamlet of L'Anse-au-Griffon. Nowadays, tour guides in period costume lead you through the main house, servants' quarters, and vast grounds — all restored to the way they looked in the 1850s — furnishing a glimpse at upper-class life in 19th-century Gaspé. There's a gift shop that sells locally-made clothes, accessories, and handicrafts, or cap off your visit with a stop in the attached tea room and pastry shop. Website in French only. $8; seniors and students with ID $6, children under 11 free, $18 for families of two adults and two children. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.995635-64.3958658 Plourde Sawmill (Moulin des Plourde), 5, rue du Moulin, ☏ +1 418-269-1212. M-Sa 9:30AM-5:30PM, late Jun through late Aug. This is the only remaining steam-powered sawmill building on the Gaspé Peninsula, and was one of the last remaining ones in operation when it closed its doors in 1986 after eight decades of manufacturing shingles for local builders. Nowadays it functions as one of Quebec's famous "econo-museums" (économusées), where you can check out the original equipment still in place and learn the history of the Gaspesian forestry industry as well as that of the Plourde family, who owned the mill. Call for rates. (updated Feb 2018)

• 48.856255-64.2010059 Cap-des-Rosiers Lighthouse (Phare de Cap-des-Rosiers), 1331, boulevard de Cap-des-Rosiers, ☏ +1 418-892-5767. Site open daily 8AM-6PM, late Jun through early Sept; guided tours every half hour 9AM-5PM. The tallest lighthouse in Canada at a height of 34.1 metres (112 feet), Cap-des-Rosiers Lighthouse has been warning traffic on the St. Lawrence away from the rocky headland on which it stands since 1858 — using the original optical apparatus, no less. Now fully restored and automated, it was named a National Historic Site of Canada in 1973. Admission only: $3, children 6 and under free. With guided tour: $10, children 7-17 $7, children under 6 free; families $25 for 2 adults and 1 child, $30 for 2 adults and 2 children, $3 per additional child. (updated Feb 2018)
• 49.108441-64.60150910 Pointe-à-la-Renommée Lighthouse (Phare de Pointe-à-la-Renommée), 200, chemin de la Pointe-à-la-Renommée, ☏ +1 418-269-3310. Daily 9AM-5PM, mid-Jun through late Sept. Located a short distance west of L'Anse-à-Valleau, the photogenic Pointe-à-la-Renommée Lighthouse was built in 1907 to replace a smaller, wood-frame light dating to 1880, and guided ships along their path for nearly 70 years before it was decommissioned and "exiled" (as the locals put it) to the Old Port of Quebec City, where it stood for another three decades in front of the Coast Guard headquarters there. The lighthouse was moved back to its original site in 1998 thanks to a grassroots community effort, and today the striking red tower — along with its reconstructed keepers' quarters and other outbuildings — serves as a museum that contains two permanent exhibitions: "Pointe-à-la-Renommée: The Space of a Lifetime" (L'Espace d'une vie à Pointe-à-la-Renommée) relates the history of the lighthouse itself, the Ascah family who tended it during its operational life, and the small, tight-knit fishing community that surrounded it, while "Marconi and the Story of Radio Communications" (Marconi, histoire des communications et radio) deals with Guglielmo Marconi, the inventor of wireless radio who in 1904 established one of North America's first marine radiotelegraph stations at Pointe-à-la-Renommée. Guided tours include both exhibits and end at the top of the tower, with stunning views over the mouth of the St. Lawrence Estuary. $10 for guided tour, $6 each individual exhibit. Children age 6-10 admitted at half price, children 5 and under are free. (updated Feb 2018)

• In Memory of Her (En mémoire d'Elle), on the grounds of the Gaspé Regional Museum, see above.
• 48.924799-64.27931611 La Griffonne Art Gallery (Galerie d'Art la Griffonne), 696, boulevard du Griffon, ☏ +1 418-892-0110. Open early Jun through mid-Oct. Montreal native Pauline Saint-Arnaud is an accomplished watercolourist whose oeuvre is dominated by the placid forest, farmland, and seacoast scenery found all over the Gaspé Peninsula — little wonder, then, that "The Sea and the Coastlines" (La Mer et les bords côtiers) is the title she chose for the permanent solo exhibition displayed at the farmhouse-turned-gallery in L'Anse-au-Griffon, where she spends her summers. Website in French only. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.934584-64.30606212 Le Griffon Cultural Centre (Centre culturel Le Griffon), 557, boulevard du Griffon, ☏ +1 418-892-5679. M & W-F 11AM-9PM, Sa Su 8AM-9PM, late Jun through late Oct; by appointment other times. Once a cold storage warehouse where local fishermen stored their catches, this handsome old clapboard building overlooking L'Anse-au-Griffon's harbour is nowadays a multipurpose space — there's a breezy seaside café where local seafood is on the menu, a boutique where Gaspesian artisans sell handmade souvenirs, and above all, the Claude Côté Gallery and Workshop (Atelier-Galerie Claude Côté), where the eponymous artist in residence displays his watercolours during the tourist season. Côté has said of his work "I am inspired by my immediate environment, where 'intellectualism' is forgotten and gives way to the poetry of everyday life, the beautiful freedom of simple things", and that's as apt a way as any to describe the stark beauty of his landscapes and nature scenes. Website in French only. (updated Feb 2018)
• 49.070952-64.51572413 Marie-Josée Gagnon Art Gallery (Galerie d'Art Marie-Josée Gagnon), 806, boulevard de Pointe-Jaune, ☏ +1 418-269-3198. Working only with a spatula, Marie-Josée Gagnon creates dazzlingly colourful scenes from around her native Gaspé: landscapes, seascapes, and lovely flower paintings where the interplay of colours, light, and shadow are of foremost importance (or, to use her words: "it is the essence of a landscape that I wish to render, rather than a mere imitation of what I see"). In the small gallery in Pointe-Jaune that bears Gagnon's name is displayed not only her work, but also the evocative portraiture of Stella Joncas-Veillet and the abstract-expressionist paintings and sculpted figurines of Estelle Francoeur. (updated Feb 2018)

• 48.829959-64.48655614 Christ the King Cathedral (Cathédrale du Christ-Roi), 20, rue de la Cathédrale, ☏ +1 418-368-5541. The only wood-framed Roman Catholic cathedral in North America, Christ the King Cathedral is the seat of the Diocese of Gaspé, whose territory covers most of the peninsula. Erected in 1969, this is the third church to be situated on this site; its striking design — wherein the fundamentals of traditional Christian religious architecture are totally subverted and reinvented along modernist lines — is the handiwork of Montreal-based architect Gérard Notebaert, working here in the "Shed Style" that had been pioneered only a few years earlier by Charles Moore with his Sea Ranch condominium community on the North Coast of California. Faced monochromatically in glue-laminated slats of red cedar, the sleek lines and angular geometric forms of this vaguely boat-shaped building certainly set it apart from the prototypical Gaspesian church. The interior is no less impressive, austere yet handsome and lit by a quintet of glass skylights built into the slopes of the roof. Bishop Gaétan Proulx delivers the Sunday Mass weekly at 11AM. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.871419-64.55031315 Our Lady of Pointe-Navarre Shrine (Sanctuaire Notre-Dame-de-Pointe-Navarre), 765, boulevard de Pointe-Navarre, ☏ +1 418-368-2133. Church open daily 8AM-7PM; gift shop M-Sa 9AM-4:30P & Su 1PM-4PM. In a peaceful setting several kilometres (miles) outside the town centre, Our Lady of Pointe-Navarre has been a place of retreat and pilgrimage for the local Catholic community since its founding in 1940 by Father Jean-Marie Watier. The complex consists of a spacious church building that's replete with breathtaking works of religious art and hosts novena recitals, personal visitations, and a Tuesday evening Mass every week at 7PM; the smaller Chapel of Remembrance, open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year for private prayer and meditation at the site of Father Watier's tomb; and a verdant hillside hermitage out back whose pleasant paths and grottoes offer a peaceful setting for spiritual reflection (not to mention spectacular views over Gaspé Bay). Website in French only. (updated Feb 2018)

Surrounded on three sides by water, Gaspé boasts aquatic fun in myriad forms.

Beaches

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The shore of Gaspé Bay is dotted with beaches that are popular summertime destinations for locals and visitors alike, including three within the city of Gaspé itself:

• 48.788735-64.3806331 Haldimand Municipal Beach (Plage municipale d'Haldimand) is the most beautiful, the most centrally located, and the most crowded beach in Gaspé. Here you'll find pristine water, luscious white sand, a playground for the kids, and even a beachfront restaurant serving Mexican specialties, all a quick ten-minute drive from downtown. Lifeguards patrol the waters in high season (late June through late August), and an annual sand castle competition draws crowds of onlookers in late July.
• For those in search of a more private beach getaway, 48.770422-64.3776582 Douglastown Beach (Plage de Douglastown) lies further south, on the other side of the lagoon. Douglastown boasts a setting almost as beautiful as Haldimand's — and an even greater length, a sand spit fully a kilometre and a half (a mile) long — yet its more off-the-beaten-path location and lack of any amenities means it's more often than not just you, the rustling dune grass, and the crashing waves.

• Finally, in the shadow of Forillon National Park is found 48.827012-64.3104183 Cap-aux-Os Beach (Plage de Cap-aux-Os), the smallest of the three. The water here tends to be a bit chillier, but that doesn't stop folks from coming down to enjoy swimming, sunbathing, a quick meal at the snack bar, or kayak rental courtesy of Cap Aventure. Public washrooms are offered, and leashed pets are welcome.

Fishing

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As you've probably gathered from reading thus far, fishing is a really big deal around these parts. Indeed, the fishery was the region's economic lifeblood for centuries, and although tourism has since usurped that status for the most part, it retains a good deal of importance even today.

But fishing isn't just an industry here — it's a way of life, for locals and visitors alike. Fishing in Gaspé can be as simple as finding a wharf or a dock and casting your line into the water, which can be done any time of year without a licence. Mackerel and smelt are popular with Gaspesian wharf fishers: the former are most plentiful in late July and early August, while smelt fishing is strictly a wintertime pursuit — ice fishing shacks are a common sight on Gaspé Bay starting in January, when freeze-up typically occurs.

Away from the shore, brook trout teem in the waterways of inland Gaspé. Locals generally don't bother with trout fishing, which has led to an abundant population — some say an overpopulation — in the fast-flowing streams and crystal-clear lakes of the Chic-Chocs. You can easily reel in some whoppers up here in the mountains; 2-kg (4½-pound) specimens are not at all uncommon. However, unlike wharf fishing from shore, trout fishing does require a licence from the Quebec Ministry of Forests, Wildlife and Parks (Ministère des forêts, de la faune et des parcs du Québec). This costs $20.19/$39.56 per day or $46.30/$148.57 annually, for Quebec residents and nonresidents respectively. Please also see the Ministry's website for information on other regulations that may apply to the specific body of water you're planning to fish.

But if there's one single species that comes to the mind of fishing connoisseurs when they hear of the Gaspé Peninsula, it's the Atlantic salmon — a species that, thanks to the efforts of the Quebec Salmon River Management Federation (Fédération des gestionnaires de rivières à saumon du Québec or FGRSQ), is on the rebound after decades of decline. With 22 world-renowned rivers managed by that organization, you're hard-pressed to find better salmon fishing anywhere — and you'll find two of those rivers within the city of Gaspé itself.

• The Saint-Jean River Wildlife Reserve (Reserve faunique de la rivière Saint-Jean) is the city's premier salmon-fishing venue, with a season that extends from May 25 through September 30 (catch-and-release only through the end of July up to a maximum of three fish per person; one catch-and-keep per person is permitted thereafter; size limits may also apply). The Saint-Jean flows eastward through Gaspé's southern precincts before emptying into Douglastown Bay, and is divided by the FGRSQ into three different zones, each with their own regulations. In Sector 1, which begins at the Route 132 bridge and extends about 10 km (6 miles) inland, the number of fishermen on any given day is limited to eight; for Sector 2, which extends further inland beyond the city line, regulations are still more stringent at two per day. Advance reservations are required, and you're best off booking as far ahead as possible. Day passes allowing fishing on the Saint-Jean cost $34.60/$67.20 in Sector 1 and $46.99/$91.98 in Sector 2, for Quebec residents and nonresidents respectively.

• The Dartmouth River Controlled Harvesting Zone (Zone d'exploitation contrôlée de la rivière Dartmouth) runs roughly parallel to the St. Lawrence along the northern part of the peninsula's interior spine and empties into Gaspé Bay a few kilometres (miles) northwest of the city centre. Like the Saint-Jean River, the Dartmouth is divided into seven zones, with Sector 1 comprising almost the entirety of the portion of the river within Gaspé's city limits. Though this sector features "unlimited access" — with no maximum number of fishermen allowed in the water simultaneously — the season is shorter (June 1 through August 31) and catch limits are no less stringent. In addition, a short stretch of river near the western boundary of the city falls within Zone 2, where you're back to the advance-reservation system with two anglers on the river at a time. Day passes for salmon fishing on the Dartmouth cost $41.02/$60.51 in Sector 1 and $73.75/$109.63 in Sector 2, for Quebec residents and nonresidents respectively.

Day passes can be purchased at the 48.823619-64.4773227 FGRSQ regional office at 25, boulevard de York Est, which is open daily from 8AM-6PM, and the quoted fees are in addition to that of the provincial fishing licence mentioned above.

If ocean fishing is more your thing, the folks at Auberge Griffon Aventure run 2½-hour excursions aboard the Balbuzard where you can angle for mackerel along the coast or, weather permitting, head out to the deeper waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence in pursuit of the Atlantic cod. Departures happen twice daily from mid-June through mid-September, at 6:30AM and 5PM, from Cap-des-Rosiers Marina. Additional departures may also be added to the schedule based on demand. Tickets cost $70 for adults, $50 for kids 17 and under, $220 for families of two adults and two kids, or $250 for families of two adults and three kids. Rods and tackle are provided, and — most convenient of all — no licence is necessary!

Although National Geographic magazine has ranked the Gaspé Peninsula among the Top 10 cold-weather destinations in North America, the wonders of wintertime in this part of the world remain a well-guarded secret. Don't be fooled by the dirt-cheap hotel rooms and ghost-town feel in the streets: there's plenty to do in Gaspé offseason. (That goes double if you're a winter sports fanatic.)

• Les Bons Copains Snowmobile Club of Greater Gaspé (Club de motoneige Les Bons Copains du Grand Gaspé), 6, rue de l'Aréna, ☏ +1 418-269-5021. M-Th 10AM-6PM, F 10AM-11PM, Sa 9AM-11PM, Su 9AM-6PM, in season. There are over 200 km (125 miles) of snowmobile trails in and around Gaspé, and these folks are the ones to talk to if you're interested in buying an Access Pass to ride them. Not only that, but their clubhouse at the 48.994561-64.41132610 Rosaire Tremblay Arena (Aréna Rosaire-Tremblay) in Rivière-au-Renard is open to members and nonmembers alike: after a long day on the trails, you can warm up with a meal at the café, unwind with a game of pool or foosball, or even belt out some tunes at karaoke. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.79403-64.49428111 Les Éclairs Cross-Country Ski Club (Club de ski de fond Les Éclairs), 20, rue des Pommiers, ☏ +1 418-368-0044. Daily 8AM-4PM in season. No, your GPS hasn't misdirected you — the way to Les Éclairs ski club does pass through a nondescript industrial park in York Centre. But there's nothing ugly about the extensive network of well-manicured trails, open to cross-country skiers and snowshoers alike, on the club's vast forested tract whose back end abuts the grounds of Michel Pouliot Airport. Website in French only. Day/season passes for ski trails: $12/$150, full time students 12 and over with ID $6/$50, children under 12 always free. Family ski passes are also available for $295/season. $10 annual membership card entitles adults & families to discount of $2/day or $15/season. Snowshoe trail access $6/day or $30 season, or free with purchase of ski trail access. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.836333-64.54275212 Mont-Béchervaise Ski Centre (Centre de ski Mont-Béchervaise), 50, rue Eden, ☏ +1 418-368-2000. F-Su 9AM-3PM. Mont-Béchervaise may not be the largest or grandest ski resort in the Gaspé Peninsula, but it has a strong claim on the title of most conveniently located — given its oddly abbreviated opening hours and relative lack of onsite amenities, it helps that downtown Gaspé is only a quick five-minute drive away. Take the chair lift from the chalet to the top of the hill, which not only serves as the starting point for about two dozen ski trails suitable for all skill levels, but also offers a panoramic view over the bay. Off to the side at the base are a couple of shorter hills open to downhill tubing, and there's a small snack bar next to the parking lot. Mont-Béchervaise is also open in the summer to hikers and mountain bikers. Website in French only. Day/half-day: lift tickets $34/$27, seniors (55+) $24/$20, students with ID $22/$19; tubing $12/$8 per person or $22/$17 per family. (updated Feb 2018)

A case in point of the above. If you're the type of person whose tastes run toward the name brands and well-known designers that are sold at chain clothing stores, Gaspé is pretty much the only game in town on the peninsula that shares its name.

• 48.824947-64.4739731 Carrefour de Gaspé, 39, montée Sandy-Beach, ☏ +1 418-368-5253. M-W 9:30AM-5:30PM, Th-F 9AM-9PM, Sa 9:30AM-5PM, Su 11AM-4PM. The Gaspé Peninsula's largest retail complex is a sprawling strip mall just past the harbour, with 21 stores including locations of Canadian Tire and Sports Experts, a Hart department store, Uniprix pharmacy, and IGA supermarket. Website in French only. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.82869-64.4846922 Place Jacques-Cartier, 167, rue de la Reine, ☏ +1 418-368-1460. M-W 9:30AM-5:30PM, Th-F 9AM-9PM, Sa 9:30AM-5PM, Su noon-5PM. The Gaspé Peninsula's only indoor shopping mall anchors the west end of the downtown retail district. Small in size but unique in design, the three-storey Place Jacques-Cartier is built into the slope of the low hill that separates downtown from the shore of the bay. Here you'll find 15 shops, restaurants, and other businesses including a Provigo supermarket, another Uniprix, Rossy and Dollarama discount stores, SAQ provincial liquor outlet, and a McDonald's. (updated Feb 2018)

• Boutique le Galet, 557, boulevard du Griffon, ☏ +1 418-892-5679. Daily 9:30AM-8PM in summer, Sa-Su 8AM-1PM in winter. Le Griffon Cultural Centre's gift shop stocks a wide range of gifts and souvenirs — everything from fashion accessories to books and greeting cards to ceramics, and even locally-grown produce from the shore of Chaleur Bay, all made in Quebec and all sourced directly from the artisans themselves. Website in French only. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.829757-64.483313 Les Créations Marie Gaudet, 115, rue de la Reine, ☏ +1 418-368-8161. Summer: M-F 9:30AM-6PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su noon-4PM; winter: M-F 10AM-5:30PM. The oeuvre of the eponymous artist is centred around the painting and fashioning of the smooth, flat stones found on the shores of the beaches around Gaspé into supercute dolls and figurines, individually accessorized with hairdos, clothes and shoes. You'll find plenty of those on the shelves at her store, along with a vast selection of artisan jewelry, handmade pottery and ceramic decorative baubles (lighthouses are a common theme), and more. (updated Feb 2018)

• 48.829905-64.483044 Bijouterie Dary, 109, rue de la Reine, ☏ +1 418-368-1212. Daily 10AM-7PM. A wide variety of elegant men's and women's jewellery, watches, and even commemorative plates are to be had at this friendly shop in the heart of downtown Gaspé. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.990678-64.3778215 Boutique Mode Andréa, 123, boulevard Renard Est, ☏ +1 418-269-7766. M-W 10AM-5PM, Th-F 10AM-6PM, Sa 10AM-4:30PM. A really nice, comfortable, fashionable yet unpretentious women's clothing shop in an out-of-the-way location: Rivière-au-Renard. Andréa's house style is statement-making without being over the top: bright colours and vibrant prints married to timeless traditional designs. Website in French only. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.829879-64.4835566 Chlorophylle, 114B, rue de la Reine, ☏ +1 418-368-8222. M-W 9:30AM-5:30PM, Th-F 9:30AM-9PM, Sa 9:30AM-5PM, Su noon-5PM. If you're in town over winter to hit the slopes at Mont-Béchervaise or take to the snowmobile or cross-country ski trails, stop in at the Gaspé location of this provincewide chain for a wide selection of upscale jackets, gloves, and other winter gear. If not, there are still three other seasons' worth of sports- and activewear to browse through. (updated Feb 2018)
• La Joaillerie, 167, rue de la Reine (At Place Jacques-Cartier), ☏ +1 418-368-1881. M-W 9:30AM-5:30PM, Th-F 9AM-9PM, Sa 9:30AM-5PM, Su noon-5PM. Place Jacques-Cartier's resident jewellers offer a full line of gold and silver pieces including some that are locally made, as well as engraving and repair services. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.829536-64.4837067 Kon-Joint, 123, rue de la Reine, ☏ +1 418-368-2708. M-Sa 10AM-5:30PM. You can't miss this place: it's a spacious shop nestled into the ground floor of the tallest building on rue de la Reine, a handsome mansard-roofed brick beauty right in the centre of the downtown action. The sign on the door advertises lingerie, and you will indeed find high-quality selections for regular and plus sizes, but that's not all: Kon-Joint also sells women's clothing and accessories of all descriptions. Fashions for all four seasons of the year are available, but the specialty seems to be cute, breezy summer wear of the type that's perfect for a day of outdoor people-watching in the warm months. Website in French only. (updated Feb 2018)

• 48.831521-64.4839888 À Chacun Sa Bête, 33, rue Adams, ☏ +1 418-368-9362. M-W 8AM-5:30PM, Th 8AM-6PM, F 8AM-8PM, Sa 10AM-4PM. If you're in the market for some new toys, clothes, or accessories for your dog or cat — or if you've brought Rover along on your trip and need someone to keep an eye on him for a day while you're off on a pet-unfriendly outing — set your sights on À Chacun Sa Bête. Aside from the above, they also offer a selection of premium name-brand pet foods, grooming services, and more. Ample onsite parking is a relative rarity downtown. Website in French only. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.993686-64.3860269 Boutique Sport Plein Air, 1, rue de l'Église, ☏ +1 418-269-2535. M-Th 9AM-5:30PM, F 9AM-8PM, Sa 9AM-noon. If you've come to the Gaspé Peninsula to enjoy the great outdoors — and really, why else would you have come? — but find yourself shorthanded on gear, this is your one-stop shop. Stuffed into Boutique Sport Plein Air you'll find everything from hockey sticks to hunting rifles to boat motors to bikes, sold for decent prices by friendly folks. Website in French only. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.828942-64.48516410 Librairie Alpha, 168, rue de la Reine, ☏ +1 418-368-5514. You'll find books of all kinds, on all subjects, and for all age levels on the shelves at this über-friendly independent bookstore in downtown Gaspé — but, being a proud member of the Quebec Bookstore Association (Association des librairies du Québec), those in search of works by local authors speaking from local perspectives can be assured they'll find more than their share of options here. Librairie Alpha also has a good selection of board games. Website in French only. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.829681-64.48341911 Marché des Saveurs Gaspésiennes, 119, rue de la Reine, ☏ +1 418-368-7705. M-W & Sa 8AM-6PM, Th-F 8AM-7:30PM, Su 10AM-6PM. If you're a locavore with a taste for the gourmet, this is the destination for you: the place's name translates to "Market of Gaspesian Flavours", and that's no exaggeration. Locally-sourced produce, meats, cheeses, baked goods, and other delights populate the shelves in this friendly shop. Website in French only. (updated Feb 2018)

• 48.838649-64.478611 La Banquise, 102, boulevard de Gaspé, ☏ +1 418-368-6670. Su-W 11AM-8PM, Th-Sa 11AM-9PM, Mar-Sep. Situated on the main drag just north of the Gaspé Regional Museum, this retro-style snack bar offers pleasant summery fare — think poutine platters, soft-serve ice cream, hamburgers, and even pizza — in a picturesque setting overlooking Gaspé Bay. Lines can be long on summer weekends and prices are a little high compared to the competition, but the combo "trios" offer a chance to economize. Website in French only. $10-20. (updated Feb 2018)

• 48.829417-64.4839032 Bistro le Brise-Bise, 135, rue de la Reine, ☏ +1 418-368-1456. Su-W 11AM-1AM, Th-Sa 11AM-3AM. One of the most distinctive, upscale, and trendy dining options on the Gaspé Peninsula, and a great option for folks who don't like seafood — all for prices that won't break the bank. The eclectic menu draws from Asian (a trio of Thai-style soups), classically Gaspesian (a locally-sourced grilled sausage and sauerkraut platter, plus crowd-pleasing shrimp poutine), and — above all — Italian (about a half-dozen pasta dishes and several specialty pizzas) influences. Bilingual waitstaff and English-language menus are a big help to those who have yet to master the local language, and live music performances are frequent. $20-50. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.830432-64.4829873 Café Sous-Marin, 3A, rue Adams, ☏ +1 418-368-4337. Su-W 8AM-11PM, Th-Sa 8AM-midnight. Once upon a time it was a Subway sandwich shop that occupied the ground floor of the three-storey blue building at the foot of rue Adams across from Tim Hortons, and although it's nowadays a locally-owned mom-and-pop, relatively little has changed. In fact, if anything the offerings at Café Sous-Marin are more interesting — the new ownership has introduced an Eastern Mediterranean influence to the proceedings, with souvlaki and shawarma wraps among the hottest sellers, as are the "taco subs" of spicy seasoned beef — sold for the same modest prices as before. $10-25. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.832683-64.4814814 Mastro Pizzéria, 85, rue Jacques-Cartier, ☏ +1 418-368-1313. Daily 6AM-8PM. With a friendly bilingual staff and a roster of specialty pizzas crowned by the ever-popular "All Dressed" (with pepperoni both under and on top of the cheese, plus mushrooms and green peppers), Mastro offers counter service and a small dining room but also, for a $3 upcharge, the Gaspé Peninsula's only pizza delivery service. If you're in the mood for something else, there's also a sizable menu of other options, especially in the domain of seafood: lobster rolls, Belgian-style moûles frites, seafood chowder, and a first-rate battered fish and chips made with locally-brewed Pit Caribou craft beer. Customers praise the quality of Mastro's food almost unanimously, but the very high prices are off-putting even in light of that. Website in French only. (updated Feb 2018)

Away from downtown, dining options get less fancy and high-concept, but no less appealing. If an unpretentious casse-croûte (snack bar) serving local fare is what you're after, seek it out in Gaspé's outer precincts.

• 48.828068-64.3053035 La Baleinier, 2089, boulevard de Grande-Grève, ☏ +1 418-892-6184. Daily 8AM-9:30PM. If you like seafood, first of all congratulations on choosing the right travel destination, and secondly this is the restaurant for you. Le Baleinier is Gaspesian cuisine done right: pan-fried cod, seafood poutine, and (above all) lobster are the standouts on the pint-sized but well-curated menu of this unassuming eatery in Cap-aux-Os just outside the entrance to Forillon National Park. Service is a weak spot, ranging from hostile to merely disinterested. Before you leave, don't forget to stop in to the onsite souvenir shop and peruse the range of crafts produced by local artisans. Website in French only. $15-30. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.988548-64.3727816 Café Croque-Faim, 159, boulevard Renard Est, ☏ +1 418-269-3336. M-W 5AM-9PM, Th-F 5AM-10PM, Sa 6AM-10PM, Su 7AM-8PM. They say good things come in small packages, and that's certainly the case with this casse-croûte in Rivière-au-Renard — Croque-Faim may be small in size, but it's certainly not short on friendly, lightning-fast service or unequivocally delicious, scratch-made comfort food. Nosh on hamburgers, fries, pizza, club sandwiches, and — most popular of all — 17 different varieties of poutine in the dining room or, on pleasant summer days, outdoors on picnic tables. Website in French only. $10-25. (updated Feb 2018)
• Café de l'Anse, 557, boulevard du Griffon (At Le Griffon Cultural Centre), ☏ +1 418-892-0115. Summer: daily 8AM-9PM; winter: Sa-Su 8AM-1PM. The bright, breezy café portion of Le Griffon Cultural Centre serves a varied but predictably seafood-dominated menu in an ambience that's creative and elegant without pretension. The star attraction at Café de l'Anse is cod, served in varieties traditional to France (brandade in huge portions with mashed potatoes and a garden salad on the side), to the Gaspé Peninsula (breaded fritters with the same side dishes), and universally (grilled filets); elsewhere on the menu you'll find a respectable range of sandwiches, salads, meat dishes, and delectable bistro-style appetizers. Service can be inept and slow, but on a pleasant summer day, if you're not too hungry when you arrive, you can turn that to your advantage by taking the opportunity to linger on the outdoor terrace and take in the view over the Saint Lawrence. Bilingual staff, but website in French only. $20-45. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.982972-64.4285987 Chez Cathy, 216, montée de Rivière-Morris, ☏ +1 418-269-5518. Daily 10AM-12:30AM, late Mar through mid-Sept. The last of a dying breed in this part of the world, this super-friendly casse-croûte has been recognized in the pages of the Huffington Post (among others) as the only remaining one on the Peninsula that offers carhop service. That's not the only reason why Chez Cathy is notable, though — the poutine that visitors rave about is topped with homemade gravy and available in myriad different varieties including BBQ and "all dressed" (topped with a mountain of sautéed onions, bacon, relish, mustard, ketchup, lettuce and tomato). If you're sick of poutine at this point in your travels, try the lobster rolls or fried scallops. Website in French only. $10-20. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.873551-64.5046648 La Maison d'À CôTHÉ, 463, boulevard de Forillon, ☏ +1 418-360-0056. Th-Su 8AM-4PM, late May through late Sept. On the road toward La Penouille is where you'll find this handsome saltbox house, brimming with character and serving an ever-changing weekly menu of light gourmet breakfasts and lunches, homemade ice cream, and — as the name implies — a full slate of delicious teas. Soft music, pleasant surroundings (especially if you opt for outdoor seating in the rear garden!), and the work of local artists on the walls all combine to craft a uniquely relaxing and charming experience. Vegetarians and locavores are well cared for — and so, surprisingly, are children, with a dedicated play area occupying a corner of the dining room. Website in French only. $15-30. (updated Feb 2018)

• 48.789991-64.3808759 La Cantina Latinogaspésienne, 30, rue de la Plage, ☏ +1 514-943-2012. Daily 10AM-5PM, late Jun through early Sept. If you're an aficionado of Mexican cuisine who's planning a trip to the Gaspé Peninsula, you'd better be arriving in the summer, because Cantina Latinogaspésienne is the only game in town — and when we say only, we mean only; even the nearest Taco Bell is a seven-hour drive away in Moncton, New Brunswick. But don't despair, amigos: there's no better place to enjoy a meal of tacos, burritos, or nachos (surprisingly authentic interpretations thereof, courtesy of chef/owner Juan Sebastián Larobina, a native of Mexico City) than on the sunny shores of Haldimand Municipal Beach. They even have live music performances on occasion. Website in French only. $10-25. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.817723-64.48767810 Casse-Croûte Jo-Ann, 137, boulevard de York Est, ☏ +1 418-368-5508. Open late Apr through mid-Sept. Yet another roadside snack bar that's open seasonally and specializes in myriad varieties of poutine (along with burgers, fried chicken, soft-serve ice cream, and other summertime delights) — but this one has a staff that's friendly and bilingual. With uncommonly tasty food sold for cheap, Casse-Croûte Jo-Ann is a popular place, so be prepared to wait in line for a bit. Outdoor seating is available at picnic tables around the perimeter of the front parking lot, from which you can enjoy a pleasant view over the bay. $10-20. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.77698-64.45489711 Chez Ron, 627, boulevard de York Est, ☏ +1 418-368-6274. Daily 7AM-8PM. It's all well and good to play the tourist, but there are some people who really like to get under the skin of a place they're visiting — to do what the locals do, go where they go, eat what they eat. If that kind of authenticity is your bag, head to Chez Ron. To be sure, there are some similarities between this place and the roadside greasy spoons frequented by many travellers — a goodly portion of the menu is indeed made up of poutine, soft ice cream (64 flavours; Baskin-Robbins, eat your heart out), and other local fast-food standbys — but the heart and soul of this place is in the more elaborate offerings of homestyle, stick-to-your-ribs comfort food served in generous portions in an environment that, while wholly unpretentious, is a solid step up from the average casse-croûte. As usual, seafood rules the day, but for a change of pace you might try one of Ron's family-size "super specials" of pizza, drinks and sides — an even better value than the rest of the food here. Bilingual menus and staff, too. $15-30. (updated Feb 2018)
• Nic et Pic, 39, montée Sandy-Beach (At Carrefour de Gaspé), ☏ +1 418-368-2950. M-F 8:30AM-5PM. This cozy little family restaurant at Carrefour de Gaspé serves a wide-ranging menu of simple comfort food at all times of day, but is most renowned for its breakfasts — homestyle eggs-meat-and-toast concoctions served up in portions that are huge and for prices that aren't. $15-25. (updated Feb 2018)

Self-caterers in Gaspé have an abundance of options.

• 48.994335-64.40503912 Bonichoix, 48, montée de Rivière-Morris, ☏ +1 418-269-3300. M-Sa 8:30AM-9PM, Su 9AM-5PM. (updated Feb 2018)
• IGA, 39, montée Sandy-Beach (At Carrefour de Gaspé), ☏ +1 418-368-5211. Daily 8AM-10PM. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.993707-64.39355413 Marché Ami (Épicerie Alban Aspirault), 43, boulevard Renard Est, ☏ +1 418-269-3202. M-F 7:30AM-9PM, Sa Su 7:30AM-6PM. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.828469-64.30945914 Marché Ami (Marché Cassivi), 2051, boulevard de Grande-Grève, ☏ +1 418-892-5383. Daily 8AM-10PM. (updated Feb 2018)
• Provigo, 167, rue de la Reine (At Place Jacques-Cartier), ☏ +1 418-368-7144. Daily 8AM-10PM. (updated Feb 2018)
• 49.031757-64.44737415 Richelieu, 420, route 132, ☏ +1 418-269-3212. Daily 8:30AM-9PM. (updated Feb 2018)
• 48.805673-64.48701916 Super C, 327, boulevard de York Est, ☏ +1 418-360-0021. Daily 8AM-10PM. (updated Feb 2018)

• 48.830131-64.4827044 Brûlerie Café des Artistes, 101, rue de la Reine, ☏ +1 418-368-3366. M-F 7AM-10:30PM, Sa Su 8AM-10:30PM. The Gaspé Peninsula's first coffee roastery sells its own line of house-brewed Arabica coffees not only at its home base — a cheery, airy café on the east end of the Rue de la Reine strip — but also at numerous other shops and restaurants throughout the region. Much more than a coffeehouse, though, Café des Artistes is also a place to enjoy a light lunch or dinner (the food menu consists of a range of delicious sandwiches, salads, pasta dishes, and pita pizzas), reconnect with the online world (there's an Internet-connected computer terminal for customer use and free WiFi all over the property), peruse the work of local artists (a separate room off the dining area plays host to an ever-changing rotation of temporary exhibitions), and take in the occasional live music performance. Website in French only. Coffee $2-5 per cup, $15-35 per person for food. (updated Feb 2018)

Most often, bedding down for the night in these parts means either checking in to a charming old gîte or roughing it in a campground. Not so in the Gaspé Peninsula's urban core: here traditional hotels and motels predominate.