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Chimoio
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Chimoio is the capital of Manica Province in Central Mozambique. Chimoio plays a significant role in Mozambique´s economy. It is a transportation connection point to neighboring countries and to the coastal and south of Mozambique.
For some travelers Chimoio is a place to rest and recharge before heading to destinations in various parts of Mozambique, Malawi and Zimbabwe while for others offers the opportunity to visit Monte Cabeca de Velho, climbing Monte Binga (the tallest peak in Mozambique) and exploring Chimanimani National Park (look at #1 under the See section in the map) and its natural beauty. Chimoio is not too far from Gorongosa National Park in Sofala Province (2+hour drive or 135 km to Chitengo Safari Camp).
Get in[edit]
By car[edit]
Chimoio is a 3+hour (200 km) drive from Beira. The road is generally in good condition and is paved, but some parts have potholes and in inclement weather an occasional downed tree, so careful driving is required. The road from Inchope south is in very poor condition, but gets better south of Rio Save.
Coming by public transportation from Zimbabwe, take a taxi from Mutare to Forbes Border (US$ 8–10 as of 2024), then cross the border by foot. Change money on the Mozambiquan side of the border (Machipanda) and then take a Chapa to Manica or ride on the back of a moto-taxi (motorcycle) (MT 250–500 as of 2024). Chapas operate from Manica to Chimoio (MT 115 + 60 for a large bag as of 2024). There is also direct chapa service from Machipanda to Chimoio (if you don't mind waiting for it, MT 190 as of 2024).
By plane[edit]
The national air carrier LAM (with a local office in Hotel InterChimoio, #2 blue in the Map) operates flights from the capital Maputo several times per week.
- 1 Chimoio Airport.
By rail[edit]
Additionally, Chimoio is on the international railway line between Beira and Harare in Zimbabwe. The line has been closed since 1997 but passenger services might resume in early 2024. Both governments are working on returning an international service but as of late 2023 it is unclear if and when it will resume.
As of early 2024 there is train service (again) from/to Chimoio and Beira.
- 2 Train station.
Get around[edit]
If you are coming from Zimbabwe and forgot to exchange money at the border do so inside the Manica Shopping Center, Casa de Cambio is to the left-hand side of Spar Supermarket. They offer a better rate than the local banks. Also if you need to retrieve money from an ATM do so also here (on the right-hand side of Spar). For some reason the lines here are not as bad as in the very center of town. Do not exchange money with anyone offering you to do so if the exchange store is closed; it is usually a scam. Keep in mind that around the end of the month, lines are usually longer at ATM´s (people get paid then).
Also keep in mind that everything closes for lunch/prayers around noon and it doesn´t open until 2:00 p.m. (that is 14:00, Mozambique uses a 24 hour system).
It is possible to see the city by foot, however there is plenty of moto-taxi service readily available in case you do not choose to use the also abundant but crowded "chapas" (mini-buses). Moto taxis are inexpensive (MT 50 for normal -no cargo- short rides), MT 100 for normal longer ones as of February 2024). There is also regular taxi service (cars) but those are usually double in price. Keep in mind that all of those prices vary at night.
See[edit]
Do[edit]
For these activities, visit the folks at Hostel/Pensao Ya-Mute (#3 blue in the map) for updated contact information, as there is not a reliable bureau of tourism in Chimoio:
- 1 Monte Cabeça de Velho (also known as Monte Bengo, not to be confused with Monte Binga). A symbol of the city of Chimoio and a "must" for dedicated travellers. The hill resembles the head of an old man. It is not a terribly high climb but offers a nice view of the city. Locals hold it in great esteem and every year, around November, there is a festival of music, books, crafts and othe cultural events surrounding its celebration. It holds a mystical reputation in the general population. The walk to the hill and trough local neighborhoods gives you a good introduction to life in Mozambique if just coming from Zimbabwe.
- 2 Cachoeira de Amizade. in the District of Gondola but not far from Chimoio city. Popular waterfalls with anybody during the hot season. Good place to cool off and chill. Relatively short chapa ride to it.
- 3 Casa Msika. private lodge in Lake Chicamba, popular hang-out for locals with a car or motorcycle and for group retreats/workshops. Beautiful view of the lake and the Messica river, it has a restaurant and swimming pool available. There is a crocodile enclosure and the property holds wildlife. The chalets are rustic but it seems the owner might improve accommodations (as of 2023). Nice for a stroll around the dam but watch out for the ants.
- 4 Chimanimani Mountains. Chimoio is the departure point to Chimanimani National Park and Mount Binga, the highest elevation in Mozambique. If deciding to climb Mount Binga one can contact a guide from Chimoio or contact one with the assistance of staff once in Chimanimani (but it is better to plan ahead). Depending on your mode of transportation (you can take a chapa towards Sussundenga and then another one to the entrance of the park) count on at least 2 days as the trek to the peak of Mount Binga is a long one.
Buy[edit]
There is a small group of artesans by Supermercado Recheio (formerly known as Jumbo), going towards Mercado Feira. They work on wood, leather as well as handwoven pieces and some paintings. Very affordable and of good quality. Some of their art is also sold at the Praca da Independencia but there it is slightly more expensive. They also do custom work (you can contact them directly also through Hostel/Pensao Ya-Mute since the hostel sponsors one of their physically-challenged associates).
If with access to a kitchen the best place to buy produce and fruit is Mercado Katanga (next to Hotel Castelo Branco, #1 blue in the Map). Meat, fish and bread can be found in the fairly-recent built stores encircling the market´s open area (they put a roof over it not long ago). If in the rainy season bring good shoes as the ground can get fairly muddy nonetheless. Best places to buy fresh bread in the center of town are Padaria Galaxy and Padaria Indico (don´t expect variety, only white bread but fresh).
Many stores (lojas) in the center of town sell capulanas (a type of sturdy sarong), which make for great gifts (particularly to women or to take as "must have" souvenirs back home). As Chimoio is the capital of the Province here one can find the greatest variety and best prices.
- 1 Mercado Feira. If you want a taste of everyday life go here where the common person goes shopping. Inside and outside the market you´ll find anything and everything the Chimoio and nearby resident asks for. Though you will find places to eat, particularly at the end of the Market, along the way there is a wide array of stalls where hair and beauty salons, hair extensions, bars, car parts, CD´s, cosmetics, phone protectors and repair, school supplies, shoes, produce, mounds of dry fish, beans and peanuts, linen, second-hand clothing and backpacks, jewelry, all kinds of hardware, household and garden items, etc. (emphasis on etc.) can be found.
- 2 Grupo Artesanal.
- 3 Shoprite Supermarket.
Eat[edit]
- For the adventurous traveler there is Mercado Feira. Through narrow corridors inside the market you´ll find humble eating stalls (mostly at the end of the market) where inexpensive meals ("xima (corn porridge), arroz (rice), mandioca (cassava), couve (collard greens), frango (chicken) ou peixe (fish) usually grilled, salada") and drinks (including cerveja-beer) are purchased. If you like spicy, ask for Piri Piri, the national chilli/hot sauce.
- General notes: don't leave Mozambique without trying Matapa. It is a sauce or stew made of mandioca leaves, garlic, peanuts and coconut milk, usually served with a side of xima. Be careful if you are allergic to peanuts, of course, and shellfish as sometimes they add the latter to this recipe (particularly in coastal areas). Delicious.
Also of note is the "Galinha ou Frango Zambeziana(o)" a marinated, basted and grilled chicken dish with a lemon and creamy coconut sauce best served with rice and the leftover marinade. Likewise, Frango Piri Piri is a popular but more spicy dish usually served with fries and a salad (and lots of water or beer!). Also popular are "Chamusas", a nod to Indian cuisine and their samosas, with different fillings (meat, fish, potatoes or cheese usually) but imbued with Mozambican spices.
A more Portuguese-inspired dish is the "Dobrada". Very popular with Mozambicans is a dish better approached carefully by the uninitiaded. It is boiled tripe (stomach), generally of cow but also from other animals (goat commonly) served with onions, potatoes, tomatoes, green peppers and chillies. Better cooked with good ventilation it requires a long cooking period.
Popular throughout portuguese-speaking countries, and Mozambique is no exception, is the "Feijoada", a slow cooking stew of beans with cubed beef or pork (often both), sausages, kidney or black beans (pre-cooked), tomatoes, carrots, garlic, salt, chunks of onions, oil, bay leaves and piri piri. Usually served with xima or rice.
- Almost next to Mercado Feira there is Manica Shopping Center where you get a more traditional fare of pizza, hamburgers and sandwiches along with local dishes.
- Many in the Portuguese community eat at Ponto de Encontro on the main Avenida 25 de Setembro. Full menu. Good coffee. If you are into sweets ask for the "promoção" and get a discount on three pastries (to take or to eat there). Another Portuguese hangout is a bit out of town, in the way to the Instituto Agrario de Chimoio (IAC). It is called Chicateco.
- Restaurante Concorde, across from Cinema Montalto, a little intimidating to women since the front room is a billiard hall usually full of men but at the end of the building there is a fairly quiet place to eat. Rice, xima, fish, chicken, beef, salad and cold beer. Fairly inexpensive.
- Cafe Chimoio, next to Cinema Montalto. Newly renovated (as of 2024). Coffee, pastries, pizza, etc. Cafe Banana Split and Cafe Capuccino are two other places a few steps away. Pretty much the same fare, just different athmospheres.
- Shamwari´s Bistro, next to the Hospital. Expensive, good food but pricey.
- Restaurante Atlantida, close to the Chimoio Centro de Saúde, good seating-down place to watch a soccer game or bring a group of friends or family. Diverse menu of both food and drinks
- Lahori Restaurant, across from Restaurante Atlantida, eat-in and take away. Pakistani and Indian food. Hang out for Pakistanis. Good samosas, bryani, curries, spring rolls and dal. Affordable.
Drink[edit]
The most well-known lager beer labels are 2M, Manica, Laurentina Clara (pale) and Laurentina Preta (dark). There is also Impala mandioca, the first beer in the world made of cassava and Impala milho (corn); both made to promote the agricultural sector. All of them under the Cervejas de Mocambique brand (CDM) which controls some 90% of the market. Nipa is the name of a popular drink made out of cashew nuts and/or sugar cane that can be found in the city. It is not uncommon to see it being brewed openly among locals around festivities in rural areas. Caution is required. Also be cautious of small off-brand bottles of liquor sold in liquor stores. Their sale is not well regulated and their ingredient quality can be questionable.
Most of the drinking spots in Chimoio are clustered in the center of town (defining the center as the Praça de Independencia with its iconic Samora Machel statue) and they include those places listed in the Eat section, That is, Restaurant Concorde and its inside an outside seating areas, Restaurant Atlantida and its bar and outside seating area on top of places like Jumbo Snack Bar next to the Movitel store and other venues around the Mercado Central (not to be confused with Mercado Feira, near the Manica Shopping Center).
Keep in mind that not all places that serve food in Chimoio serve alcohol. There are a number of establishments that are mostly Indian or Pakistani-owned and that for religious reasons do not offer that option. Those include Lahori Restaurant, across Atlantida Restaurant, the Restaurant at the Manica Shopping Center, and Bishmillah Restaurant and the O Nosso Take-Away both near the Masjid Central de Chimoio (Mosque).
There are other places that are popular but not so centric from Praca de Independencia (still short walking distance). They include Shamwari Bistro on the left-hand side of the Hospital Provincial de Chimoio (top rated but expensive) and Bar Luz Verde an inexpensive and safe option (particularly for backpackers) at night and within walking distance from the Hostel/Pensao-Ya Mute.
Sleep[edit]
- 1 Castelo Branco, Rua Sussundenga (next to Katanga Farmers Market). Very good quality. Decent swiming pool. Wi-fi. Fitness Center. Good security for cars. Next to Praca dos Herois Mocambicanos at one end of town. Fairly quiet and popular for business purposes, dignataries and large events. MT 6900 for a double room.
- 2 Hotel Inter-Chimoio, Av. 25 Setembro, 18B (On the Chimoio Main avenue), ☏ +258 251 24200, [email protected]. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. One of the best hotels in Chimoio, four-star equivalent standard. Right in the center of town. Popular for business purposes and hosting conferences. MT 5400.
- 3 Hostel/Pensão-Ya Mute, 164 Avenida Liberdade (at the crossing of Rua Josina Machel (20052) and Rua 20.061, one block down, close to Predio Azul building.), ☏ +258 87 267 7356, [email protected]. Unofficial successor to Pink Papaya, which closed down during the Covid-19 pandemic. Nice garden, clean facilities, kitchen, fans in the rooms (one with A/C). Staff is friendly and helpful. Good place for backpackers, NGO workers/volunteers and travellers on a budget. MT1000 or less for a dorm bed, it also has a double, a suite and small single room.
- 4 Residencial Dabhad, at the corner of Rua do Barué (32) and Rua dos Agricultores,, ☏ +258 251 23264, [email protected]. Check-in: noon, check-out: 11AM. Has more than twenty rooms available with one double or two single beds. Very centric, next to night life. Breakfast served on the premises. Popular for local visitors, business and couples. All the rooms are equipped with air conditioning, satellite TV. MT 2800 for a double room.
Connect[edit]
- Country code is +258
- There are two main phone carriers covering this region: Movitel and Vodacom. If you are coming from Zimbabwe and new to Mozambique you will need a new SIM card on either carrier; it will take you back around MT1000 as of 2024. Make sure you write the numbers needed to check your balance and charge MPesa-Vodacom or EMola-Movitel (handy phone-based money transfer services). The Movitel store is located next to Bar Jumbo (see Drink) and the Vodacom store is located next to Cafe Chimoio (see Eat). Recharging your phone data is done in any corner of the city or store with agents wearing yellow or a sign on the window. They are reliable, all it takes is for you to 1)give them your phone number and desired amount of money and 2)they will usually recharge it with their flip phones, confirm your name and then 3)send you an instant message to your phone with the transaction details (wait in place until you receive it).
- The city government has two main open Wi-Fi spots located in the square across the Hotel Castelo Branco and in the Praca de Independencia (the problem is that they don't always work). Otherwise, and if need be, you can always go to Hotel InterChimoio, for example, sit at the bar and order a cup of coffee or a beer and ask for the Wi-Fi´s password there.
- The postal service (sending/receiving packages) is called Correios de Mocambique and is located on the left hand side of the Praca de Independencia (as you face the monument).
- For an express delivery of goods/medicine/whatever from Maputo, people use the Portador Diario (airplane delivery) located next to Cinema Montalto. Depending on size and weight, of course, it can be expensive. There is also a DHL service point in town not far from the Amirana Hotel.
- English (and some Portuguese) language radio transmissions are available from BBC World Service on 99.0MHz.
Go next[edit]
Buses to Maputo and other destinations leave Chimoio near Shoprite (see #3 on Buy section in the map) at 4.30 a.m. and from the very center of town at 5:00 a.m. (different companies). Tickets need to be purchased the day before at the counter or departure location of the corresponding bus company. You will likely have to pay the full fare (around MT 1800 + possibly fee for a large bag) as of 2024, even if you get off before Maputo. Large portions of the road are in very poor condition in the way to Maputo (particularly in Sofala Province, up to Rio Save).
If leaving Chimoio by plane do not schedule your flight too close to your actual departure from Maputo out of the country; cancellations are not uncommon in Chimoio due to weather conditions. Keep in mind when leaving the country that LAM has different weight restrictions for checked and carry-on bags on internal national flights than those of international carriers.
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