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Sarajevo
Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, and its largest city, with 420,000 citizens in its urban area (2013). Sarajevo metropolitan area that has a population of 555,000 also includes some neighbourhoods of "East Sarajevo" that are a part of Republika Srpska. Sarajevo is very tourist friendly, especially pedestrian area in the Old Town in the centre of the city.
Understand
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History
[edit]Sarajevo is one of the most historically interesting and diverse cities in this part of Europe. It is a place where the Western and Eastern Roman Empire split; where the people of the Roman Catholic west, Eastern Orthodox east and the Ottoman south, met, lived and warred. It is both an example of historical turbulence and the clash of civilizations, as well as a beacon of hope for peace through multicultural tolerance. The city is traditionally known for its religious diversity, with Muslims, Orthodox Christians, Catholics and Jews coexisting here for centuries. Additionally, the city's vast historic diversity is strongly reflected in its architecture. Parts of the city have a very Central-European look, while other parts of the city, often blocks away, have a completely distinct Ottoman, some Soviet-like or Socialist modernism feel.
Some important events in Sarajevo's history include the 1914 assassination of Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand, which led to World War I; the 1984 Winter Olympics; and the 1992-1996 siege.
The city has physically recovered from most of the damage caused by the Yugoslav Wars of 1992–1995, although bullet holes can still be found in some buildings. Sarajevo is a cosmopolitan European capital with a unique Eastern twist that is a delight to explore. The people are very friendly, be they Bosniaks, Croats, Serbs or anyone else. There is little street crime, with the city ranking as one of the safest in Southeastern Europe.
Orientation
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The city of Sarajevo stretches west–east along the river Miljacka; the main arterial road and tram routes tend to follow the west–east orientation. It is set in a narrow valley, surrounded by mountains on three sides.
Most tourists spend a lot of time in Old Town (Stari Grad). The eastern half of Old Town consists of the Ottoman-influenced Bascarsija (BAHS CHAR she ya; etymologically baš (head, main), čaršija (bazaar, trading area) in Turkish), while the western half showcases an architecture and culture that arrived with Austria-Hungary, symbolically representing the city as a meeting place between East and West.
- 1 Tourist Information Centre, Sarači 58, ☏ +387 33 580 999, [email protected].
- [Visit Sarajevo
- "Sarajevo Navigator" is an online guide magazine in English and Bosnian, the latest issue being March 2019.
Climate
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Sarajevo has a humid continental climate, since mountains surrounding the city greatly reduce the maritime influence of the Adriatic Sea. Summers are typically hot (record high of 41 °C in 2008) with an average of 46 days per year above 32 °C, while winters are snowy and cold with an average 4 days per year below -15 °C. Rain can be expected in every season, with an average of 75 days of precipitation per year, which in winter often falls as snow.
Get in
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By plane
[edit]- 1 Sarajevo Airport (Medjunarodni Aerodrom Sarajevo, Butmir Airport, SJJ IATA), Kurta Schorka 36 (Butmir, 6 km SW of railway station), ☏ +387 33 28 91 00.
This is Bosnia's principal airport, hemmed in by mountains and fog-prone, so flight delays are common in winter. The only passenger terminal is Terminal B; it's closed overnight 23:00–05:00. In the groundside main hall (after customs on arrival, before security on departure) there are currency exchange booths, car rental desks, a bookshop that sells local SIM cards, and a fast food area upstairs; there's no luggage storage. Airside is small, with a cafe and duty free shops accepting major currencies. New terminal facilities are under construction, to open in 2021. About 1 km away, walkable by the route to the trolleybus (below) then keep straight on, is the East Bus Station for destinations in Republika Srpska.
The most important hub connections are from Frankfurt (by Lufthansa), Vienna (by Austrian), Istanbul (by Turkish Airlines), Dubai (by flydubai) and Doha (by Qatar Airways) as well as flights to neighbouring countries (Belgrade by Air Serbia and Zagreb by Croatia Airlines) amongst others. Service to London-Luton is operated by Wizz Air, and to London-Stansted from April to October.
While you're at the airport, consider visiting the Tunnel of Hope Museum (Tunel Spasa). This saves you a trip from city centre later on, though you'll probably have to drag your luggage along. The museum is southside of the runway (the terminal being north), which they tunnelled beneath in 1993 to create a lifeline to the besieged city.
Getting there and away:
- By bus – Centrotrans bus runs daily between airport and Baščaršija in city centre. It runs roughly hourly 05:30-22:00, timed to connect with flights, taking 20-30 mins. A one-way ticket is 5 KM, return 8 KM, the first bag (up to 23 kg) per person is included and each extra bag is 5 KM. You pay on boarding the bus. It stops on request at central bus stops, which may not be specifically marked for the airport bus but they're usually next to tram stops.
- By taxi – Taxis are notorious for scams! To the city centre should not exceed 20 KM, although some drivers try for double that from foreigners. Flagfall is 1.90 KM then it's 1.20 KM per km for 6–7 km; any "airport supplement" is bogus. Some drivers will refuse to use the meters; insist on them, and if they don't, then walk away. One scam is to wave a "fixed price list" at you, but it's just the product of a greedy imagination. Your hotel may offer an airport transfer, with rates varying from the competitive to the silly. A further option is to walk through Dobrinja as described below to pick up a taxi, though the saving on an honest fare is small.
- By trolleybus – This involves a walk of 600 m through the nearby neighbourhood of Dobrinja to reach the stop on Bulevar Mimara Sinana. You might want a map or a compass: the general direction is northeast with the terminal directly behind you, but it involves a zigzag. You exit the airport at the main gate onto Kurta Schorka highway. Turn right (southeast) and walk 200 m, there's no sidewalk. Take the first left, Andreja Andrejevića, and cut through residential Dobrinja passing near Hotel Octagon. Emerge onto the main road and turn right (again southeast) along Bulevar Mimara Sinana. On the opposite side (with westbound traffic) after 200 m, before you reach Mercator Center, is the bus stop Dobrinja škola B. Trolleybus 103 runs every 6 – 7 minutes daytime to Trg Austrijski, in the centre on the south riverbank, taking 25 min; walk across the Latin Bridge to come into Old Town. (Don't take the 107 or 108 if you're aiming for Old Town.) The fare is 1.80 KM, pay the driver, and note there are frequent ticket inspectors.
Tuzla Airport is another way in, as it has budget flights by Wizz from across Germany and Scandinavia. The airport is 120 km north of Sarajevo. An airport bus runs direct from Sarajevo to meet the Wizz flights, taking 2 hours and costing €22 each way. Or you can travel via the frequent standard buses to Tuzla, taking a leisurely 3 hours.
By train
[edit]- 2 Sarajevo Railway Station (Nova željeznička stanica), Put života 2 (near Avaz Twist Tower), ☏ +387 33 65 53 30. This communist-era station is in a dilapidated state, with few trains and lots of down-and-outs, though it's reasonably central in this strung-out city. The ticket office is cash only and they laboriously write out tickets by hand, so service is slow. There are toilets and cafes. Staff at the information desk speak good English and their stock reply to many enquiries is to try the bus station next door: this is good advice.
The only international train to/from Bosnia runs from Ploče in Croatia on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays in summer via Mostar (€12). Tickets purchased onboard the train from Ploče (reservation not needed or possible but Interrail/Eurail accepted) details on the Croatian Railways Website. Journey time is 3 hours.
The railway route you're most likely to use is the scenic Čapljina - Mostar - Sarajevo, with two trains a day, departing from Sarajevo at 07:15 and 16:46 and taking around 2 hours to reach Mostar. Three trains per week extend south of Čapljina into Croatia and the port of Ploče (which has transport to Dubrovnik, Split and the Adriatic islands) during summer months.
If your accommodation is in the west of the city, e.g. the Ibis Styles Hotel, then coming from Zenica you can get the local train to Sarajevo, which also stops at 3 Alipašin Most on Safeta Zajke. But it doesn't save much time or effort. The trains from Čapljina and Mostar trundle through this station without stopping.
By bus
[edit]There are two bus stations in Sarajevo, Main Station for most long-distance services and East Station for Serbia and towns in Republika Srpska.
- 4 Main Bus Station (Autobuska stanica Sarajevo) (at Put života 8 next to the railway station). It's at the terminus of Tram #1 to the Old Town, fare 1.60 KM. Direct international services include Belgrade (7 hr), Budapest (12 hr), Budva (9 hr), Zagreb (8 hr), Maribor (9 hr), Ljubljana (9 hr), Split (7–8 hours), Dubrovnik (6 hr), Graz (11 hr) and Vienna (14 hr). Pristina in Kosovo may involve a change in Novi Pazar, else travel via Podgorica in Montenegro. Flixbus is the main international operator. Tickets can be bought online from them or Centrotrans, from the bus station itself, or from a centrally-located travel agent such as Centrotrans on Ferhadija behind the cathedral. If you bought your ticket online, you will need to purchase an additional ticket to access the departure platform from staff in the ticket hall.
On all intercity buses you pay a fee for luggage, usually 2 KM or €1 per piece (as of July 2024). The driver will insist on exact change in one or the other currency pretty much at random, and then get picky about the denomination of the exact change you give him.
Major bus routes within the country are to Tuzla (hourly, taking 3 hours, fare 11 KM), to Mostar via Konjic and Jablanica (hourly, taking 2 hours 30 min, fare 14 KM) and to Banja Luka via Zenica (every couple of hours, taking 3 hours, fare 11 KM.)
- 5 East Bus Station (Autobuska stanica Istočno / Lukavica) (away west, thanks to the bitter geography and politics of this region). It's in East Sarajevo in Republika Srpska, and the route from central Sarajevo has to sweep west to get round the hills then approach south then eastwards near the airport. It has better connections to Serbia than Main Station; both stations have buses to Montenegro. The main services are to Belgrade, Novi Sad, Herceg Novi and Nis and also Zvornik for stop-over connection to Srebrenica. Routes within the country are to Bijeljina, Kalinovik and Trebinje not far from Dubrovnik.
To reach East Station, take trolleybus 103 from Austrijski Trg to the end and then walk for 400 meters, or a taxi for around 15 KM. There are no controls to cross into Republika Srpska, it's just like crossing any internal border. There's not much at the station except a ticket counter and the obligatory cafe/grill. Travellers reported harassments by a drunk guy hanging around at the east bus station (see e.g. Google Maps Reviews).
Sarajevo East Station asks you to pay a station tax which is 2 KM per person (as of July 2024). Insist on your receipt that indicates the 2 KM as the staff usually tries to scam tourists and keep the money for themselves or asks for twice the price.
To go to the city, take the trolleybus 103 at Dobrinja. The trolleybus accepts KM cash only. 1.8 KM per person and 1.8 KM for luggage (as of Jan 2025).
There is no ATM nor exchange at TOM shopping mall (updated Jan 2025), go to Mercator Dobrinja (shopping centre) for exchange, and there are ATMs along Bulevar branilaca Dobrinje. There is another stop for trolleybus 103 nearby Mercator called Trafo.
By car
[edit]The main route from the west is past Zagreb east on E70, then south on E661 to enter Bosnia and towards Banja Luka thence Sarajevo via the A1 highway from Zenica. You can also reach the city from the East via the suburbs of Ilidža or from the north via M18/A1 from the direction of Tuzla.
By thumb
[edit]Hitching is easy to moderate, though make sure your sign is in the local language. Sarajevo is a long, thin city: if you can't get a lift into the centre, at least get yourself dropped by the tram tracks.
Get around
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Sarajevo is a medium-sized, beautiful city with many landmarks. Getting lost is always possible, but much less so if you have a map; however, getting lost in Bascarsija's winding streets can be part of the fun, and may reveal some interesting surprises.
Very good free maps can be obtained from the tourist information office, shopping centres and hotels. Some bookshops may also sell printed maps of the city. Map apps on a smartphone are particularly useful.
Asking Sarajevans for directions is an exercise in futility. People might not know the names of streets a block from the building they've lived in all their lives. Taxi drivers can't be expected to find anything other than the most obvious addresses unless you tell them where to go, in Bosnian; showing the driver on your map may be necessary.
Avoid driving in the Old Town. The steep and narrow streets, with a one way system, means you are likely to get lost and possibly damage your car. Also, it is next to impossible to find a parking spot.
Otherwise, a car might be invaluable to reach the sights farther away from the city center, especially East Sarajevo which belongs to Republika Srpska.
On foot
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In Sarajevo, street signs are few and far between, and small and on the sides of buildings too far away to see when you're standing on a street corner. Building numbers are more or less consecutive. The city is mostly walkable, especially the city centre and the part of the city which is built on the slopes of Mt. Trebević.
By public transport
[edit]By tram
[edit]Sarajevo's tram network operated by KJKP GRAS is among the oldest in Europe, and it looks it. A single line runs east from Ilidža passing within 2 km of the airport: an extension to the airport has been planned and intermittently constructed since the 1990s. It runs up the middle of the main highway into the city, with a spur north (Trams 1 & 4) to the main railway and bus stations. At Marijin Dvor it divides into an anti-clockwise loop, same direction as the traffic flow. All trams go east along Hiseta and the riverbank through Baščaršija (Old Town) as far as City Hall. Here they loop to return west along Mula Mustafe Bašeskije (a few blocks north of the river) and Maršala Tita to Marijin Dvor. Only Tram 3 runs the entire line out to Ilidža, the others go part route, e.g. the 1 & 4 terminate at the railway station. The length of the route is around 12 km. Old trams from Amsterdam were donated to Sarajevo and can still be seen touring the city, with the Dutch stickers still on it.
Buy tickets in advance from kiosks labeled tisak, duhanpromet, inovine on the street (1.60 KM) or from the driver, where they cost slightly more (1.80 KM, paid in cash). Validate your ticket immediately on boarding: it's only good for one trip, with no transfers. A day card for unlimited travel on all local public transport in Zone A costs 5 KM. There are frequent ticket inspections: if you can't reach the validator because the tram is too crowded, then don't board. If you are caught without a valid ticket, you will be escorted off and fined 26.50 KM.
By bus
[edit]You would only use these for the few sights or accommodation well off the tram route, e.g. the airport and nearby Tunel Spasa, (see #Get in), Sarajevo East bus station or Vratnik district east of the centre, Buses 51, 52 or 55.
Bus tickets are always bought at the driver for 1.40 KM. You can not use pre-bought tram tickets in buses.
The planned departures of buses and trams can be found in the Moovit app (iOS, Android).
By bicycle
[edit]At first sight only for committed urban cyclists: Sarajevo traffic can be as hostile to cyclists as it is to fellow-motorists, only with worse results. However, there are in fact separate cycle lanes along the river and/or the main west-east boulevard for more than 5 km, with the easternmost point being the parliament area / Muzeji tram stop.
Nextbike has a bike rental scheme here and in Tuzla. First you need to register and pay a 20 km deposit, easiest done online. It may take 24 hours to activate but if you're already registered with them in another country, you should be good to go. There are 14 pick-up / docking stations all along the tram lines out to Dobrinja near the airport, their map shows real-time availability. The first 30 mins per day are free, a further 30 mins cost 1.50 KM.
By taxi
[edit]Taxi scams are common especially at the main train & bus stations and the airport. Try to avoid using taxis when possible, as even supposedly legitimate operators can scam. Know roughly what the honest fare should be, and insist on them using the meter. All legitimate taxis have a "TAXI" sign on top, licence plates with "TA", and have a meter. Flagfall is 1.90 KM then it's 1.20 KM per km, plus maybe 1 km for luggage, so a trip between Baščaršija and airport shouldn't exceed 20 KM. Pay in cash, the driver will issue a receipt upon request. Some official operators are
- Paja Taxi 1522 or ☏ +387 33 15 22
- Žuti (Yellow) Taxi ☏ +387 33 66 35 55
- Samir & Emir Taxi 1516
- Holand Taxi tollfree 0800 2023
The best way to find a reputable taxi is to ask a local person you trust which one they would use. Ownership and management of official operators can change frequently.
By shared electric scooter
[edit]Renting an electric scooter is available in Sarajevo like in many other European cities. You can use the app BeeBee to access them.
See
[edit]With the exception of the Tunnel Museum and the Bosna spring, all landmarks are in or within walking distance of Old Town. Several walking tours are available, a free/tip based walking tour starts every day at 10:30 at the crossing of Gazi Husrev begova street and Mula Mustafa Baseskija street (address: Velika Avlija 14) and covers most of the Baščaršija.
The municipality of Sarajevo provides an app called "Guide2Sarajevo" (Android, ios). It contains a map with sights and restaurants as well as several themed routes to walk in the city (ranging from 2 to 6 hours) on which you use your phone as audio guide (works even without mobile internet, because the files are downloaded on installation). It's remarkably well made.
- 1 Avaz Twist Tower, Tesanjska 24a (100 m east of railway station), ☏ +387 33 281 350. 07:00-22:00. The easiest way to orient yourself in the city is to look for this distinctive 176 m twisted tower, completed in 2008, and hosting the media company Dnevni avaz. There's a café-bar & restaurant on Level 35, reached by lift (free access). From there you pay 2 KM in coins to pass the turnstile and walk upstairs to Level 36, which has an observation deck with outside walkway. The café-bar and restaurant are smoky and the food & service aren't up to much. 2 KM.
Baščaršija
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Baščaršija is the historic district of Sarajevo. The cobbled streets, mosques and oriental-style shops at the heart the city feel like a world away from Europe when the call to prayer starts. You could be walking by a Catholic church, Orthodox church or a synagogue and hear the Islamic call to prayer at the same time. In this old bazaar you can find dozens of shops selling copperware, woodwork and sweets. Many historic monuments are situated around Gazi Husrev-begova street.
- 2 Sebilj (
1 2 3 5 Baščaršija, Pigeon Square). 24/7. Pseudo-Ottoman wooden fountain in the middle of an open square in the old town of Sarajevo. It was built by Mehmed Pasha Kukavica in 1753, and under Austro-Hungarian rule moved to its current location in 1891 by Austrian architect Alexander Wittek. Three replicas of the fountain exist, respectively in Belgrade and Novi Pazar in Serbia, and in St. Louis in the US. The fountain offers shadow and drinkable water. The surrounded Pigeon Square got its name from the countless pigeons swarming around. Feeding pigeons is allowed, and a seller with a trolley sells corn to tourists to feed the birds. Free. - 3 Sacred Heart Cathedral (Katedrala Srca Isusova), Trg Fra Grge Martića 2 ( 1 2 3 5 Katedrala), ☏ +387 33 210 281, toll-free: +387 33 225 591, [email protected]. Tu-Su 09:00-17:30. The largest Christian cathedral in Bosnia, and the seat of Archbishop of Vrhbosna. It was built in honour of the Sacred Heart of Jesus in a Neo-Gothic style with Romanesque Revival elements, and modelled on the Notre-Dame of Dijon. Construction of the cathedral began on 25 August 1884, under Austro-Hungarian reign, was carried out by the Viennese contractor Baron Karl Schwarz, and supervised by architect Josip Vancaš. The cathedral was the scene of peace demonstrations in 1991 before the Bosnian War broke out, and subsequently damaged during the Siege of Sarajevo. The design above the door to the entrance is part of the flag and seal of the Sarajevo administrative canton and the Romanesque towers are featured on the flag and coat of arms of Sarajevo, making the building a symbol of the city. The niche above the portal features an octagonal rosette and a statue of the Sacred Heart. The interior of the cathedral was designed by architect Josip Vancaš, including the main altar which is made from Grisignano marble and rests on four columns of red Tyrolean marble. The frescoes were commissioned to Alexander Maximilian Seitz in 1886 but due to deteriorating health, they were only completed in 1887, and he died a year afterwards. Most of the actual work was undertaken by his assistant Alberto Rohden. A prominent feature is the grave of archbishop Stadler, the first archbishop of Vrhbosna, and the sculpture is of the hand of Marin Studin. The stained-glass windows ornamenting the cathedral were manufactured by the Viennese workshop of the Tiroler Glasmalerei (German for glass painting artisan). An English language mass is held on Sundays at 12:00. For candles, ask the information desk at the entrance (1 KM each). Photography not allowed. Free.
- 4 Morića Inn (Morića Han), Sarači 77 ( 1 2 3 5 Baščaršija, entrance is on the south side of the block, from the Sarači street), ☏ +387 33 236-119. 08:00-22:15. The only preserved Ottoman Inn (han literally means roadside inn) in Sarajevo, built in 1551, under the benevolence of Gazi Husrev-Beg's endowment (vakuf). It served as a caravanserai, able to accommodate up to 300 guests, 70 horses, and offered 43 rooms where travellers could spend the night. On 29 July 1878, the inn became the scene of the protest movement against the Austro-Hungarian occupation of Bosnia, and the People's Council (Narodni Odbor) was founded here. The building was damaged or destroyed by fires numerous times and rebuilt each time, notably in 1697 and most recently in December 1957 when the entire complex was burned to the ground. Reconstruction took place from 1971 to 1974, and Persian calligraphic inscriptions from poems written by Omar Khayyám, a 12th-century Persian poet, were added as decorations. The property ownership to the inn was returned to the Gazi Husrev-Beg endowment in 1998, and houses a carpet shop and traditional restaurant, occasionally hosts exhibitions and offers business space for purposes that match the historical context and purpose of the building. Stairs on either side of the inner patio allow visitors to reach the first floor with the rooms. Free.
- 5 Clock Tower (Sahat-kula), Mudželeti veliki (next to the Gazi Husrev-bey's Mosque), ☏ +387 62 626 626. The clock tower, at 30 metres, is the tallest in Bosnia, and dates back to the 17th century when it was constructed by Gazi Husrev-beg next to the mosque that also bears his name. The tower has a staircase with 76 wooden steps arranged in a square, and displays the time on all 4 sides. When Eugene Savoy of the Austrian army laid siege on the city in 1697 and looted it, the tower was set on fire, but restored in 1762. After the Austro-Hungarian occupation, the upper part of the tower was upgraded, and the decaying Turkish clock mechanism was replaced by a new one from Gillet & Johnston, made in London in 1873. The original clock mechanism was moved to the Vratnik mosque where it remains on display until today. The last upgrade dates from 1967, when the dials were gold-plated. A peculiarity of the clock tower is that it appears to be the only remaining clock tower in the world that displays the lunar clock (a la turca, lunar reckoning). This method of measuring time counts hours up till the moment of (astronomical) sunset instead of midnight, as with contemporary time calculation, so the hands are in the 12 o'clock position at every sunset, when a new day also begins. Since the setting of the sun is uneven throughout the year, the time needs to be manually controlled and recalibrated every 2 to 3 days. The task of recalibrating the clock was assigned to the muvekit (timekeeper), who used astronomical instruments in a special room called the muvekithana to calculate the position of the sun. The current muvekit, Mensur Zlatar, who works at a nearby jewellery shop, has been assigned the responsibility since 1960s. The exact timing of the sunset used to be an important moment for locals to schedule their time of prayer, but the original religious purpose behind the lunar time has long since had its meaning forgotten, causing many to think that the clock is simply bad at proper time keeping. In 2006, the Commission for the Preservation of National Monuments proclaimed the clock tower as a national monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The tower cannot be visited, but it is possible to stand at its base by following the tunnel leading to Pekara Imaret right next to the tower.
- 6 Tašlihan, Zelenih beretki ( 1 2 3 5 Latinska ćuprija). 24/7. Tašlihan served as one of the three stone caravanserais in Sarajevo (the others being the Morića Han and Kolobara Han), the name literally translates to 'stone han'. It is believed that Tašlihan was the largest and most representative inn of its kind in the region, and built between 1540-1543 by craftsmen from Dubrovnik, who equipped the building with lead cupolas unlike the other two inns. It had a square foundation with sides of 47 m, guest rooms on two levels, and a fountain in the courtyard. Several fires damaged the building, and the last one in 1879 completely destroyed it. The last remaining bits of rubble were removed in 1912, except for the shared wall with the bezestan. When archaeological research was carried out as part of the 1998 renovation of adjacent Hotel Europe, the remains of Tašlihan were uncovered in the hotel's garden. The site was declared a National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina by the Committee for the Preservation of National Monuments in 2004. Free.
- 7 City Hall (Vijećnica), Obala Kulina Bana ( 1 2 3 5 Vijećnica), ☏ +387 33 292-800, [email protected]. 10:00-20:00. Iconic pseudo-Moorish revival style building in Sarajevo, constructed between 1892 and 1894 under Austro-Hungarian occupation of the city. It was designed in 1891 by Czech architect Karel Pařík, but after disagreements with the ministry, it was Alexander Wittek who continued work on the project from 1892 to 1893 until he fell ill and died in Graz in 1894. The work was completed in 1894 by Ćiril Iveković, at a total cost of 984,000 crowns. The city hall was formally commissioned in 1896 by the City Authority which occupied the building until 1949, after it became the National and University Library of Bosnia and Herzegovina. On 25 August 1992, the building was set ablaze by Serbian shelling at the beginning of the Siege of Sarajevo, causing its destruction. Most of the 1.5 million volumes in the library's collection, of which 155,000 rare books and manuscripts were lost in the fire, despite civilian efforts to save them. Vijećnica was restored between 1996 and 2013 with financial aid from Austria, the European Commission and the city of Barcelona, at a total cost of 25 million KM. It is now a national monument, reopened since 2014, and designated as a cultural building for protocol events, concerts and exhibitions. 10 KM.
- 8 Officers’ Casino (Dom Oružanih snaga Bosne i Hercegovine), Zelenih Beretki 2 ( 1 2 3 5 Drvenija), ☏ +387 33 285-800. The Officers’ Casino was built in 1881 according to Karl Pařík’s design. It was the core of Sarajevo’s social life in late 19th and early 20th century. The Army Hall of Bosnia and Herzegovina has been used by the military ever since its establishment for various purposes, such as art exhibitions and public lectures. It holds two grand halls for receptions and cultural events, and was the venue of the first military music concert in the city, held in 1881.
Museums
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| Archduke Franz Ferdinand and Gavrilo Princip |
Sarajevo has numerous museums on a variety of topics. The museums can offer an air-conditioned refuge from heat during Sarajevo's hot summers, or a place to warm up in the chilly winter months.
History and archeology
[edit]- 9 Brusa Bezistan, Abadžiluk 10 (Two short blocks north of Emperor's Bridge), ☏ +387 33 239 590. M-Sa 10:00–16:00. Small museum in a 1551 Ottoman silk shop, tracing Sarajevo's development from prehistory through Roman, Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian and modern times. Its centrepiece is a model of the Old Town on the ground floor, made by Husein Karišik on the first floor there is a famous blue garment with golden threads and fine yataghan (short Turkish sword). 3 KM.
- 10 National Museum (Zemaljski muzej), Zmaja od Bosne 3 ( 1 2 3 5 6 Muzeji, in a large classical building across the road from the Holiday Inn), ☏ +387 33 668-027, [email protected]. Tu-Su. Static displays of the natural and human history of Bosnia and Herzegovina, including an exhibition of traditional Turkish-style homes of Sarajevo prevalent in the nineteenth century, an extensive collection of insects and stuffed mammals and a large geology section with samples from around the world and a number of meteorites. The museum also offers access to the botanical garden in the middle of the four main buildings: (1) archaeology from the Roman period up to the ninenteeth century, (2) Library, (3) Ethnology and (4) Natural sciences. 6 KM.
- 11 Sarajevo Museum 1878–1918 (Muzej Sarajevo 1878–1918), Zelenih beretki 1 ( 1 2 3 5 6 Muzeji), ☏ +387 33 533-288. M-Sa 10:00-16:00. A small museum dedicated to the Austro-Hungarian occupation of Sarajevo, which started with the Berlin Congress in 1878 and ended with World War I in 1918. The exhibition portrays life in the Austro-Hungarian era from different perspectives and themes. The time line ends with the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie in front of the building. The few artifacts and photographs include wax figures of the Archduke and his wife, and what are claimed to be the clothes and gun of the assassin. Tasteless photo opportunity with a replica of the car in which the Archduke was assisinated outside costs 1 KM. The location itself is far more notable. 4 KM.
- 12 Svrzo's House (Svrzina kuća), Glođina ulica 8 (200 m north of the old town), ☏ +387 33 475-740. M-Fr 10:00-16:00, Sa 10:00-15:00. Part of the Sarajevo City Museum, Svrzo's House shows the living conditions of a Muslim family at the end of the 17th century. The house was built by the eminent Sarajevo family Glođo during the Ottoman occupation of the city, but ownership was transferred to the Svrzo family since the Glođo family had no male successors. The interior is divided in two sections: the public part (selamuk) and the family part (haremluk), which in turn is split in the traditionally separated living quarters for men, women and servants. Despite being constructed entirely of wood, the building was surprisingly well preserved until the Siege of Sarajevo during which it sustained heavy damage. It was rebuilt after the siege and reopened in 1997, and renovated again in 2005. 3 KM.
- Gazi Husrev-Bey's Library Museum (Muzej Gazi Husrev-begove biblioteke), Gazi Husrev-begova br. 46 (next to Gazi-Husrev beg Mosque), ☏ +387 33 233-170, [email protected]. M-F 09:00-19:00, Su 10:00-19:00. In a modern building opened in 2014, the museum has a collection of over 1,200 items, displaying Islamic calligraphy, time-keeping and everyday objects of Muslim life. It's within the library which holds some 100,000 historic manuscripts, printed books, periodicals and archive documents, but these are only accessible to registered users. 5 KM, includes mosque.
War memorials
[edit]| The Yugoslav Wars |
Scars from the Bosnian War can still be seen in many parts of the city, as bullet holes in walls or abandoned buildings. The unresolved conflict (see box The Yugoslav Wars) left traumatic memories, and museums and memorials associated with the Bosnian War are scattered around the city.
- Sarajevo Roses are scars left in the concrete from mortar blasts during the Siege of Sarajevo, filled with red resin. Around 200 can be found throughout the city.
- ICAR Canned beef monument In the vicinity of the National Museum and the Bosnian Historical museum. A giant can of beef meant as a sarcastic sneer at inadequate help from the European community during the siege. The infamous canned beef was inedible, and according to popular legend even refused by stray cats and dogs. The city was also supplied with 20 years out-of-date rations from the Vietnam war, and pork for a Muslim-majority population.
- 13 Tunnel of Hope (Tunel Spasa), Ulica Tuneli 1, 71210 Ilidža (Tram 3 to Ilidža terminus then Bus 32a to Butmir, or taxi from the city centre for ~20 KM), ☏ +387 33 684 032, [email protected]. Apr-Oct daily 09:00-17:00, Nov-Mar daily 09:00-16:00. Sarajevo was besieged and bombarded from 1992, and by 1993 the blockade was total. Serb forces seized the airport, but handed it over to UN peacekeeping forces to avert international intervention. The UN used the airport to bring in humanitarian aid, but wouldn't allow any military support to the city's defenders, and they severed the city from Bosnian-controlled areas to the south. A secret tunnel was therefore dug between Dobrinja just north of the airport to Butmir just south: 340 m of true tunnel, plus covered trenches either side, totalling over 800 m. It enabled arms, munitions, oil and food to be brought into the city, and served as an evacuation route for officials and civilians. Later it was equipped with rail tracks, an oil pipe and electricity and telecoms cables. A museum has been built over the Butmir entrance, with 20 m of tunnel accessible to visitors, plus displays on the siege. City tours often include this museum. 15 KM. 5 KM for students. Additional charge for an audio guide delivered via your smartphone.
- 14 War Childhood Museum (Muzej ratnog djetinjstva), Logavina 32 (walk north from the bezestan until you see the museum sign to the right of the street), ☏ +387 33 535-558, [email protected]. 09:00-20:00. Opened in 2017, the museum has personal belongings on display that illustrate the experience of a childhood during the Siege of Sarajevo. An audio guide reveals the stories behind the items, complementing the exhibits with additional pictures, audio and video. Video testimonies of inhabitants who grew up during the war are also shown throughout the visit. Only around 50 are in the permanent collection at any time, but the book War Childhood offers a compilation of them all. The book is for sale in the museum or can be consulted for free in the library section. 10 KM. 8 KM for students.
- 15 Eternal Flame (Vječna vatra), Ferhadija ( 1 2 3 5 Banka, at the end of Marsala Tita street and beginning of Ferhadija street). 24/7. Memorial site designed by architect Juraj Neidhardt, commemorating the victims of World War II with an eternal flame and inscription. The memorial was dedicated on 6 April 1946, the first anniversary of the liberation of Sarajevo from the four-year-long occupation by Nazi Germany and the fascist Independent State of Croatia. Free.
- 16 Museum of crimes against humanity and genocide 1992-1995 (Muzej zločina protiv čovječnosti i genocida 1992-1995), Ferhadija 17 ( 1 2 3 5 Katedrala, or continue Ferhadija street from the Sacred Heart Cathedral in the direction of the Eternal flame, the museum entrance is a door to the left of a narrow alley), ☏ +387 62 467 764, [email protected]. 09:00-22:00. Small but important museum about the genocide during the Bosnian Civil War of 1992-95. The human side of the conflict is portrayed with shocking pictures, personal testimonies and video. Complementary to the 11/7/95 Gallery, which focuses on the Srebrenica Massacre in particular. Warning: the photographs and video may, indeed should, be shocking. Parental advisory and visitor discretion is advised. 12 KM.
- 17 Gallery 11/07/95, Trg Fra Grge Martića 2 (next to Sacred Heart Cathedral), ☏ +387 33 953 170, [email protected]. Daily 09:00-22:00. A small but compelling exhibition about the Srebrenica Massacre of July 1995, when 8,372 people were killed. Events are described from the perspective of investigative journalists visiting the site of the genocide. The audio guide is highly recommended as there are no signs. Allow at least 60-90 minutes. Two screenings are shown which also last around half an hour combined. Watching the complete day-to-day (military) history of the events on the computers takes at least 1h on its own. The photos, video footage and personal testimonies are shocking; visitor discretion is advised especially with youngsters. 15 KM, audio guide 5 KM.
Islamic cemetery in Sarajevo - Cemeteries: those who died in the 1990s war were buried in pre-existing cemeteries. In these you find old Ottoman turbe, Austro-Hungarian dignitaries, casualties of two World Wars, Yugoslav citizens - and then row upon row upon aching row of simple white marble stones for people in their twenties slain in the latest conflict.
- A good example is 18 Alifacovac (Alifakovac grobljanska cjelina) on the headland south of the river where it emerges from the canyon.
- See also Martyrs' Memorial Cemetery in Vratnik, and St Mark's (Groblje Sveti Marko) north edge of the city with the mausoleum of Gavril Princip.
- 19 Sniper Alley (Snajperska aleja), Zmaja od Bosne ( 2 3 4 5 6 Katedrala). 24/7. Sniper Alley was the informal name primarily for streets Zmaja od Bosne Street (Dragon of Bosnia Street) and Meša Selimović Boulevard, the main boulevard in Sarajevo which during the Bosnian War was lined with snipers' posts, and became infamous as a dangerous place for civilians to traverse. The road connects the industrial part of the city (and further on, Sarajevo Airport) to the Old Town's cultural and historic sites. The boulevard itself has many high-rise buildings giving sniper shooters extensive fields of fire. Signs reading "Pazi – Snajper!" ("Watch out – Sniper!") became common. People would either run fast across the street or would wait for United Nations armored vehicles and walk behind them, using them as shields. According to data gathered in 1995, the snipers wounded 1,030 people and killed 225; 60 of whom were children. Free.
- 20 Memorial for the Children of Sarajevo, Maršala Tita ( 1 2 3 5 Park). 24/7. Monument erected in 2009 by sculptor Mensud Kečo and dedicated to the 1,600 children who were killed during the Siege of Sarajevo. The monument is located in Veliki Park, and consists of a glass sculpture constructed by stacking individually cut layers of green glass with a total height of 5 m, and is 1.7 m in diameter at its base. In 2010, the names of 521 children were inscribed in seven cylinders of anodised aluminium and placed on a concrete plinth around the sculpture. Free.
- 21 Bosnian Historical Museum (Historijski muzej), Zmaja od Bosne 5 (next to National Museum), ☏ +387 33 226-098, toll-free: + 387 33 210 416, [email protected]. 09:00 - 19:00. The museum was founded 70 years ago, but heavily damaged by shelling during the war and still in a perpetual state of disrepair. The exhibitions primarily focus on the war, but the presentation of the artifacts is outdated, and the museum lacks content overall. Some of the displays are worth a visit, at least if you are able to cope with the graphic pictures. The 11/7/95 Gallery and War Childhood Museum offer similar content for a much better value. 5 KM.
- 22 Museum of the 105th Motorized Brigade (Muzej 105. motorizovane brigade), Grdonj. T-F 12:00-22:00; Sa-Su 10:00-22:00. A memorial dedicated to the 105th Motorized Brigade of the Bosnian Army, which took part in the defense of Sarajevo during the 1992-95 siege of the city. Since 1993, over 7,000 members have passed through the brigade, of which 312 were killed in action and more than 2,000 were wounded. The museum is housed in a renovated fortified tower at Pointy Rock.
Art
[edit]- 23 National Gallery (Umjetnička galerija), Zelenih beretki 8, ☏ +387 33 266-550, toll-free: +387 33 266-551, [email protected]. M-Sa 10:00-20:00. Established in 1946 after the Second World War, the National Gallery contains over 6,000 pieces of art, with a focus on works of Bosnian interest. Interestingly, the gallery remained open and held exhibitions during the Siege of Sarajevo. It was closed in 2011 and reopened to the public in 2012. The permanent exhibition, Intimacies of Space, highlights Bosnian life from all angles.
- 24 Museum of Literature & Performing Arts (Muzej književnosti i pozorišne umjetnosti), Sime Milutinovića Sarajlije 7, ☏ +387 33 201-861. M-F 8:00-19:00; Sa 12:00-20:00. A small museum dedicated to the importance of literature and expressive arts in Sarajevo, with attention to prominent local writers and poets. Worth a visit to those interested in arts and literature. 3 KM.
- Modern Art Museum (Ars Aevi), Terezija bb (Skenderija, just east of bridge), ☏ +387 33 216-927, [email protected]. Daily 10:00-18:00. Museum for contemporary art, formed during the war as a "resistance of culture". It has 130 works by notable artists such as Italian painter and art theorist Michelangelo Pistoletto, Greek artist Jannis Kounellis, German performance artist and sculptor Joseph Beuys, and US conceptual artist Joseph Kosuth. Tatty concrete building, they hope for a new museum building by Renzo Piano someday.
- 25 Despić House (Despića kuća), Despićeva 2, ☏ +387 33 215-531. M-F 10:00-18:00, Sa 10:00-15:00. A dependency of the Sarajevo City Museum, constructed in several stages during different periods, the oldest parts dating back to the 17th century. The property belonged to the wealthy Serb Orthodox Christian Despić family, which donated the house to the city, which turned it into the Museum of Literature and the Performing Arts. It gained fame as the venue for the city's first theater performances, so it may be regarded as the precursor of modern theater. Together with Svrzo's House, the Despić House presents visitors with the lifestyle of wealthy merchant families that contributed to Sarajevo's growth and prosperity.
Academy of Performing Arts - 26 Festina Lente Bridge, Obala Kulina bana. 24/7. A 38 m long pedestrian bridge over the Miljacka, opened in 2012, with an unusual loop in the middle. Seats in the loop invite travellers to sit down, enjoy the view and "make haste slowly." Free.
- The grandiose Academy on the south bank facing Festina Lente bridge was originally a church, built in 1899 to Karl Pařík's design. It's now the Academy of Performing Arts within the University of Sarajevo, but no longer fit for purpose and they plan to move elsewhere. So just admire the facade.
- 27 Bosniak Institute (Bošnjački institut), Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 21, ☏ +387 33 279 800. 08:00-16:30. The institute is a cultural centre focusing on Bosniak culture. It was established by former Bosnian Vice President Adil Zulfikarpašić. The institute is housed in a renovated sixteenth century Turkish bath and includes a library and an art centre.
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Administrative buildings
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- 28 Presidency Building (Zgradu Predsjedništva Bosne i Hercegovine), Maršala Tita 16. The Territorial Government Building (today, the official residence of the Presidency of Bosnia and Herzegovina) was designed by Josip Vancas and opened in March 1886. The building is modeled after Florentine Medici Ricardi Palace and reflects Florentine Early Renaissance style. It also houses the Constitutional Court of Bosnia and Herzegovina (Ustavni sud Bosne i Hercegovine) and the Archives of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
- 29 The Parliamentary Assembly Building (Parlamentarna skupština Bosne i Hercegovine), Trg Bosne i Hercegovine 1 (across the Sarajevo City Center), ☏ +387 33 284 450, fax: +387 33 233 480. The Building of the Bosnian Parliamentary Assembly was commenced back in 1954, designed by the architect Juraj Neidhard (who was a close associate of Le Corbusier), and finally built during 1978–1982. At the time it was finished, the building of the Assembly of SRBiH was the only building for that purpose in this part of Europe designed in a modern style. Also houses the Council of Ministers of Bosnia and Herzegovina Directorate for European Integration. The building became an icon of the Siege of Sarajevo after it was shelled by Serb artillery and photographed while on fire in 1992.
- 30 Konak (Rezidencija "Konak"), Ulica Konak 5. The Konak was built as an Ottoman governors’ residence in 1868 in Late Baroque style during the rule of Topal Osman Pasha, an Ottoman vizier. It was built on a site of a former konak (an official residence in the Ottoman Empire). From 1878 to 1918 during the Austro-Hungarian occupation the Konak was the residence of the Habsburg family, and the Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Josef resided in Konak during his visit in May, 1910. During the Yugoslav Republic (1918 to 1941) Konak hosted generals, governors, district-prefects and many politicians from around the world. Today, it is a state residence used by the members of the Presidency of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
- 31 Central Post Office (BH Posta), Obala Kulina bana 8, ☏ +387 33 252-834. 7:00-20:00. Austro-Hungarian era post office, designed by Czech architect Josip Vancas, and opened in 1913. It is a monumental building with tall doors leading visitors into a classic caged foyer in Secession style, with some decorative elements resembling the post office of Vienna. It was damaged in May 1992 during the Siege of Sarajevo, but restored in 2001 under supervision of architect Ferhat Mulabegović. Free.
Religious buildings
[edit]Islamic
[edit]
- 32 Gazi Husrev-beg's Mosque (Begova dzamija), Saraci 8, ☏ +387 33 573 151, [email protected]. 09:00-19:00. Beautiful medieval mosque at the heart of Old Town. Non-Muslims welcome, but dress appropriately and respect prayer times. It was built in 1530 / 1531 AD (937 AH) in what's called "classical Ottoman" or "early Istanbul" style. It was badly damaged in the 1990s wars, being targeted by the besiegers, but restored and re-opened in 2002. 5 KM, includes library-museum next door.
- Hanikah (Gazi Husrev-begova Hanikah), Ulica Sarači 49 (next to Gazi Husrev-beg mosque). M-Sa 09:00-20:00. A khanaqah is a Sufi lodge or centre for the study of Islamic mysticism. This one is a 1998 replica of the original built in 1531 with 14 study rooms, a simahana (room used for Dervish religious ritual), mihrab niche to indicate the direction of Mecca, and a šadrvan fountain in the inner courtyard. It's nowadays an art gallery.
- 33 Emperor's Mosque (Careva dzamija), Obala Isa-bega Ishakovića (on the south bank of the river). This is the oldest mosque in Sarajevo, the first one to be built in 1457 after the Ottomans occupied the city. It is the largest single-subdome mosque in the country, constructed under supervision of Isaković-Hranušić who dedicated it to sultan Mehmed the Conqueror. It was destroyed at the end of the 15th century but rebuilt in 1565 and dedicated this time to Suleyman the Magnificent. The mosque was damaged again in the Second World War and most recently during the 1992-95 Civil War, and restoration work on the painted decorations and interior are still pending. The adjacent cemetery hosts the graves of many former city viziers, mullahs, muftis, sheikhs and other prominent historical figures of Sarajevo. There is also a café inside the walls. The mosque is open both to Muslims and non-Muslims, but a visiting woman needs to cover her hair and wear long skirt or dress within the mosque.
- 34 Ali Pasha Mosque (Alipašina džamija), Hamze Hume. The mosque was constructed during 1560–61 as a vakıf (legacy or perpetual endowment) of Sofu Hadım Ali Pasha, the Ottoman former governor of the Bosnia Eyalet of the Ottoman Empire, after his death in September 1560. It was built according to the classical Istanbul architectural style. The dome covers the prayer area and three small domes cover the cloister. Because of its noble proportions it stands at the top of the scale of all sub-dome mosques that have been constructed in Bosnia and Herzegovina. In the framework of the complex there is a domed burial site (turbe) with two sarcophagus of Avdo Sumbul (d.1915) and Behdžet Mutevelić (d.1915), Gajret activists who died in the dungeons of Arad. The mosque was heavily damaged by Serbian forces during the conflict of the early 1990s, especially the dome. The most recent renovation of the mosque occurred in 2004 and in January 2005, the Commission to Preserve National Monuments issued a decision to add the Ali Pasha Mosque to the list of National Monuments of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
- 35 Ferhadija Mosque (Džamija Ferhadija), Ulica Zelenih Beretki (walk down Ferhadija street to the west). The mosque is named after Ferhad Bey Vukovic Desisalic, a Bosnian Sanyak Bey, who had the mosque built in 1562. Archaeological research into the painted decorations inside the mosque, carried out between 1964 and 1965, revealed 6 paint layers dating from different periods. The oldest and most valuable layer, found in the main dome, belongs to a group known as Rumi ornament, and dates back to the 16th century. Next to the mosque is a small cemetery, where members of the Janissary Order and of the old Sarajevan aristocratic families were buried.
- 36 Tomb of the Seven Brothers (Jedileri), Bistrik 8 (take bus 103 to terminus Trg Austrije), ☏ +387 33 712-800, toll-free: +387 33 71 28 01, [email protected]. The history of the tomb dates back to the founding days of Sarajevo, and it is assumed that a certain sheik who had arrived with the army of Sultan Mehmed II el-Fatih was the first to be buried at this spot. The sheik built his house next to the current tomb, and in his will asked to be buried at the base of his garden, with the remaining area used as Muslim cemetery. Later on, two dervishes were also buried here, falsely accused of stealing gold from the Sarajevo treasury in 1494. Over two centuries later, 4 army commanders who were accused of collaboration with Prince Eugene of Savoy in his raid of the city, were also buried in the tomb after, according to the legend, a heavenly light descended upon their grave as evidence of their innocence. Thus, the tomb unites the 7 individuals, who are brothers by faith rather than brothers by birth. In 1815 a wall with seven windows was built around the tomb, and a room for a tomb keeper was added. Some of the property was demolished in 1937, but the wall and tomb still stand today.
- 37 Hajji Sinan's Tekke (Hadži Sinanova tekija), Ulica Alije Đerzeleza 1. Thursday: 19:00 - 22:00. The tekke was built by Hadzi Sinan Aga, a wealthy merchant from Sarajevo, or his son Mustafa-Pasha, who was a silahdar (an officer in charge of the weapons) at Murad IV Sultan's Court, from 1638 to 1640. The tekke is comprised of several rooms: a room where zikr (the Dervish prayer) is performed, the sheik's residence, musafirhana (a visitor's inn) and an area for coffee making. In addition to regular Dervish rituals, the tekke gathered Sufis (mystics), who practiced tesavuf (mysticism) and studied works in Persian, Turkish and Arabic. Over a hundred inscriptions have been preserved at this site. Sinan Tekke’s greatest visual attraction is the calligraphy design on the wall of the courtyard, known as “Suleiman's Seal”, the rosette design is nearly three meters wide with the words, “There is no God but God, and Muhammad is his Messenger”, painted 12 times in the fresco style. In 1768, the first asylum for psychiatric patients was opened in Hajji Sinan’s Tekke, marking the beginning of organized health care in BiH.
Christian
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- 38 St Anthony's Church (Franjevačka crkva svetog Ante Padovanskog), Franjevacka. Roman Catholic church in Gothic Revival style, built 1912-14 on the site of previous versions. The current interior dates from 1960s, with works by leading 20th C artists including Meštrović. The church serves the adjacent monastery.
- The Franciscan Monastery (Franjevački samostan na Bistriku) next to the church was built in 1894, also in Gothic Revival style and designed by Karel Pařík. It's still a monastery and therefore seldom open to visitors, but its collection of paintings, sculptures, organ, manuscripts and books are occasionally put on view.
- 39 Cathedral Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos (Saborna Crkva Rođenja Presvete Bogorodice), Zelenih beretki 1, ☏ +387 33 269 261. The Cathedral is the largest Serbian Orthodox church in Sarajevo and one of the largest in the Balkans. It is dedicated to the nativity of the Theotokos, and erected at the request of the Orthodox parish of Sarajevo, with construction taking place between 1863 and 1868. The church is constructed as a three-section basilica inscribed in a cross-shaped plan, and has five domes. The domes are built on the beams; the central one is much larger than the other four side domes. The church is arched by round elements. The small gilded baroque-style belfry is built in front of the entrance. The interior walls are decorated by painted ornaments. In the lower zones of the walls the painted ornaments are simulating the marble stone construction look. Arches and vaults are decorated in ornaments only. In 1898, the Orthodox Metropolitan Palace was built near the cathedral.
- 40 Old Orthodox Church (crkva sv. Arhanđela Mihaila i Gavrila), Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 59, ☏ +387 33 571 065. Also known as the Church of the Holy Archangels Michael and Gabriel (Cyrillic: црква св. Арханђела Михаила и Гаврила) is a Serbian Orthodox church. It was first mentioned in Ottoman sources dating to 1539. The church was built on older foundations, and is one of the oldest sacred buildings in the region, built in a medieval Serbian-Byzantine architectural style. Its interior is known for outstanding woodcarving art, paintings, and contains the fifth largest collection of religious icons in the world with a total of 140 icons present, dating from the 13th to 19th century. Among its collection are also 13 historic books and 37 liturgical garment items. The bell tower was constructed in 1883 and renovated in 1960. The site was declared a National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina in 2006.
- 41 Church of St. Joseph (Crkva sv. Josipa), Ulica Fra Anđela Zvizdovića (across the Sarajevo City Center). Roman Catholic church with 3 bells designed by Karel Pařík in a Romanesque Revival style, funded by Pope Pius XI. Construction began in 1936 and the building was consecrated in 1940, during the early months of the Second World War. The triple aisled basilica is built on top of a sanctuary with a crypt containing the tomb of Archbishop Ivan Šarić. The high altar of St. Joseph and the terracotta Stations of the Cross were gifted by Pope Pius XII. There are a total of 15 tombs in the walls of the church, hand carved by sculptor Franjo Rebhan. The stained glass windows were designed by Ivan Marinkocić, but destroyed at the end of the war in 1945, and subsequently restored. It was damaged again during the 1992-95 Bosnian civil war, restored in the early 2000s, and classified as a National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
- 42 Church of the Holy Transfiguration (Crkva Svetog Preobraženja), Ulica Zmaja od Bosne 43. Orthodox church designed by Alexander Deroko and built in 1940 in Byzantine Revival style. It was originally planned to be built in Split, owning its resemblance to similar buildings along the Adriatic coast, but eventually constructed in Sarajevo instead and consecrated by Serbian patriarch Gravillo V. It is the primary place of worship for the 50,000 Orthodox Christians in the region. The church has been the target of numerous attacks throughout its history. It was heavily damaged during the 1992-95 Siege of Sarajevo but renovated in 2003. Reworking of the valuable frescoes began in 2004. In 2016, the church was set on fire by pyromaniacs, without injuries. It was targeted by looters again in the same year, and 2 rare icons were stolen.
- 43 Mausoleum of Gavrilo Princip (Groblje Sveti Marko), Patriotske lige (follow Marsala Tita, pass the park, take Kosevo and walk half an hour uphill). 24/7. Cemetery of St. Mark, with a chapel doubling as the mausoleum of Gavrilo Princip, the assassin of Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sofie at the Latin Bridge in 1914. Gavrilo Princip was buried here together with other Serb revolutionaries beneath the chapel. There is a plaque on the wall of the chapel to commemorate for eternity our Serb heroes. Free.
Jewish
[edit]The Jewish population was first established in 1492-97 when Sephardic Jews fled the Inquisition in Spain and Portugal, and settled here and in other Ottoman cities. The Ashkenazi Jews mostly arrived during Austro-Hungarian rule in the late 19th century. Inter-community relations were mostly amicable and the population was relatively unharmed by the First World War, collapse of Austria-Hungary and formation of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. By 1940, their numbers peaked at around 14,000, 20% of the city population. In 1941 the Nazis invaded, placing the country under the control of the Croatian Ustaše, who vigorously set about the deportation and extermination of minority groups. Those who could, fled to the west, and after the war most exiles remained abroad. Some 2000 Jews did remain or return, but when the 1990s civil wars broke out, there was a mass evacuation to Israel of Jews living in former Yugoslavia. Fewer than 1000 remain in Bosnia and Herzegovina today, perhaps half of them in Sarajevo.
- 44 Jewish Museum (Muzej Jevreja), Velika avlija bb, ☏ +387 033 535 688. M-F 10:00-16:00, Su 10:00-15:00. This is housed in the Old Temple (Il kal vjezu) or Grand Temple (Il kal Grandi) built in 1581 for the Sephardic settlers. It's a three-nave building with the front area used for preaching and the upper floors for the women's section. It's mostly a story of harmony and prosperity, but the third floor relates events of 1941-45. The building was badly damaged then and in the 1990s civil wars but has been well restored. KM 3.
- The Jewish New Temple[dead link] (Il kal muevus) next door, built in 1820, is now an exhibition space open Su-F 15:00-19:00.
Ashkenazi Synagogue interior - 45 Ashkenazi Synagogue (Aškenaska sinagoga), Ulica Hamdije Kreševljakovića 59, ☏ +387 33 229-666. The Old then the New Temples were for the Sephardic congregation, so the Ashkenazi synagogue (nowadays the only functioning synagogue in Sarajevo) was built for that community in 1902, designed by Karl Pařík in Moorish revival style. It escaped Nazi destruction and features large arches with painted decorations and an ornate ceiling highlighted by a ten-pointed star. A stone menorah at the entrance commemorates the 400-year anniversary of Jews in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Tours are available in English on request.
- 46 Jewish Cemetery (Jevrejsko groblje s kapelom na Borku), Ulica Urijan Dedina. The cemetery lies on the slopes of Trebević mountain in the Kovačići district of southern Sarajevo. It is one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in South-East Europe, and in use from 1630 until 1966. It was established by Sephardic Jews during the Ottoman period, and also became the burial ground for Ashkenazi Jews after they arrived in Sarajevo in the late 19th century. It contains o
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