Distance

16 mi

53.365-1.8171 Edale (mile 0) has hourly trains between Manchester Piccadilly and Sheffield, and the official start of the trail is The Nag's Head half a mile north of the railway station. Edale is in the limestone scenery of the Peak District, but the trail turns its back on this at the outset, to traverse the bleak soggy gritstone plateaux of South and West Yorkshire.

There are two initial routes, which can combine into a circular walk for a day-trip. The traditional route is to ascend Kinder Scout immediately up Grind's Brook, then head northwest across the plateau. The alternative, more scenic and less boggy, is west across the fields to ascend by Jacob's Ladder, then north along the scarp edge. The two routes meet at Kinder Downfall, from where you trudge north gradually descending.

The plateau is crossed by the A57, but with no facilities nearby, you press on north over Bleaklow. After a final descent into Longdendale and a zigzag around the reservoir, you reach 53.491-1.8912 Crowden (mile 16), which has a couple of B&Bs. It’s located on the A628 but has almost no public transport. The route is clearly marked, with flagstones laid over the worst of the bogs. With 16 miles behind you and 254 still to go, expect more of the same terrain until Gargrave in North Yorkshire, where the path returns to the limestone scenery of the Yorkshire Dales.

Distance

11 mi

The route climbs a steep side valley onto Sliddens Moss, reaching the summit of Black Hill (582 m) where you enter West Yorkshire. From there, descend across Wessenden Head Moor to the A635, a bleak plateau with no facilities. Continue down the valley, where the scenery improves past a series of reservoirs.

53.601-1.9273 Marsden lies a couple of miles off the trail and makes a good detour to break up this long stage. It offers accommodation, shops, and regular transport to Manchester and Huddersfield. From Marsden, either retrace your steps to the reservoirs or take the lane west to rejoin the trail at 53.5832-1.969031 Standedge (mile 27).

Distance

15 mi

At Standedge, the trail follows a long gritstone escarpment, with views down into Oldham and Rochdale. Beneath the moors lie a railway tunnel and the Huddersfield Narrow Canal, hidden from view. From A640 descend Saddleworth Moor to A672 and M62. A footbridge soars over the cutting of the motorway hurrying down to Manchester.

53.65-2.0333332 Blackstone Edge is the northern continuation of the escarpment. Follow it to the Aigin Stone then bear slightly west to reach A58. Nothing here, you could head downhill 2 miles west for accommodation at Littleborough, but you may as well trudge onward into Calderdale. The route here follows a reservoir catchment channel. Stoodley Pike Monument is the 121 ft (37 m) stone tower ahead, commemorating victory over Napoleon in 1815. You could branch north here to descend steeply into 53.713-2.0964 Todmorden, though the standard route stays on the escarpment above the valley to reach Hebden Bridge. Todmorden is a former mill town, now in West Yorkshire though it has been back-and-forth with Lancashire. It has accommodation, and public transport between Manchester, Burnley and Halifax. You could rejoin the route by taking the canal towpath northeast.

The trail crosses 53.733904-2.0436253 Rochdale Canal Callis Bridge in Calder Valley (mile 42), a few miles down the road from 53.742-2.0095 Hebden Bridge. Hebden Bridge is another former mill town with accommodation and public transport. Heptonstall is an attractive village just north, with cottages and steep cobbled streets like a Hovis advert.

Distance

16 mi

The Calder is one of several east-flowing rivers that here dissect the gritstone plateau. These created transport routes and fast-descending streams to power mills, so the post-industrial valley floor is in sharp contrast to the moors above. The Pennine Way becomes busier and is criss-crossed by other routes, as it's close to large cities and suitable for weekend strolls with children and muddy dogs in tow. The route onward is via Heptonstall onto the moor, descending at Widdop then along Walshaw Dean Reservoir northeast to ascend the next moor.

This is Brontë Country, where the wild moorland helped shape some of English literature’s most haunting scenes. The Brontë sisters, Charlotte, Emily and Anne, lived in the nearby village of Haworth and drew inspiration from these windswept hills. The 43-mile Brontë Way crosses the area from east to west, linking places connected to their lives and novels.

The ruin of Top Withens Farm shortly after the 1,476 ft (450 m) crest of this section brings two surprises: that anyone should see any resemblance to Wuthering Heights, which it supposedly inspired, and that these windy expanses are within the city limits of Bradford. The route descends steeply to the foot of Ponden Reservoir (mile 59 in total) but most walkers will branch east for 3 miles to reach 53.83-1.966 Haworth. It's a large village with accommodation and good transport. A steam train runs regularly from Keighley.

Leaving the reservoir, continue northwest over Oakworth Moor to enter the Craven district of North Yorkshire. Just beyond 53.8826-2.0534 Ickornshaw Mill (mile 58), it's a short walk down to 53.884-2.0427 Cowling, a straggling village with accommodation along A6068.

Distance

13 mi

The route continues northwest over the tail end of the south Pennines, through Lothersdale, Thornton-in-Craven and East Marton. Press on through pastoral country towards Gargrave, a welcome shift from moors and peat bogs. As you descend from the windswept, literary landscapes of the Brontë moors, the path leads you off the last of the high gritstone plateaux, signaling a coming change in scenery as you approach the 54-2.166675 Aire Gap (mile 71).

This low-level corridor between the Aire and Ribble valleys marks the divide between the South and North Pennines. From here, the trail enters the limestone scenery of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. The Leeds–Liverpool Canal also follows this natural route, and you could join its towpath at East Marton for a more meandering approach to Gargrave.

Distance

8 mi

The next 40 miles is the most scenic of the entire route, through karstic crags and Yorkshire Dales National Park. The trail passes through 53.984-2.1058 Gargrave, which would be a pleasant village if only it had a bypass, but it's pounding with traffic on A65. Buses and trains run to Skipton if you can't find accommodation here. The main sight is the ladder of locks carrying the canal towards its summit. Pennine Way heads northwest, cutting over Eshton Moor and back into the Aire valley at Airton, thence north to 54.061-2.1539 Malham (mile 83).

Malham has accommodation and a sporadic bus to Skipton. Malham Cove is the amphitheatre-like cliff face at the head of the valley. Scramble up this onto the limestone plateau, where a side trail east loops back to Malham via Gordale Scar.

Distance

14 mi

Continuing north, the route is by Malham Tarn onto Fountains Fell. Descend this steeply west onto paved farm lanes. 54.155278-2.2497226 Pen‑y‑ghent rushes at you like the prow of an oncoming aircraft carrier. This is a slab of gritstone rising to 2,277 ft (694 m), atop a base of limestone riddled with sinkholes and caves. Scramble up its prow onto the plateau, grateful that you're not today doing the Yorkshire Three Peaks challenge, the mountain-running circuit from Horton that also takes in Whernside at 2,415 ft (736 m) and Ingleborough at 2,372 ft (723 m).

Since 1974 the record is a shade under 2 hr 30 min, but as the celebrated Alfred Wainwright put it, "this is to be greatly regretted, walking is a pleasure to be enjoyed in comfort". Descend south to 54.15-2.2910 Horton-in-Ribblesdale (mile 97), which has accommodation and is on the road and railway from Leeds and Skipton to Settle, Lancaster and Kirby Lonsdale.

Distance

14 mi

The next leg is mostly on farm lanes, reasonably firm and obvious to navigate. Follow the lane out of Horton for a mile along the east flank of the valley then bear left at the fork. It's co-signed as "Ribble Way" for another mile, diverging at Birkwith. Skirt Cam Fell to come onto the long flank of Dodd Fell. At its north end, the trail short-cuts over the nose of the ridge to descend into Gayle. In poor visibility or wet conditions, stay on the farm lane to come into 54.304-2.19611 Hawes (mile 111).

Hawes is a large village with accommodation and a museum. Gayle is its extension southwest, with a creamery making Wensleydale cheese, and a restored 18th century mill. Infrequent buses run from Leyburn and from Garsdale (on the Leeds-Settle-Carlisle railway) to Hawes and Gayle.

Distance

13 mi

The karstic scenery is behind you now, so it's back to brown heath and moor. Take the public road to Hardraw, pausing to see the waterfall. A farm lane then ascends northwest up the long ridge of Great Shunner, with the scars of old mine workings. The route beyond the lane has flagstones to curb erosion. Great Shunner summit at 2,349 ft (716 m) would command views of Wensleydale, Ribblesdale, Swaledale and beyond, if only you'd come on a fine day. The descent trends northeast to come into Thwaite, a side valley of Swaledale, the most northerly of the Yorkshire Dales. Accommodation straggles along B6270 into 54.405-2.16612 Keld (mile 124), while the route flanks the dale.

Keld is a tiny place but its accommodation includes yurts, the prospect of which has kept you going all this way. A couple of waterfalls are within a mile of the village. The route onward is along the flank of Stonesdale Moor, with the lane a bail-out option below.

About 4½ miles north of Keld, the route passes the remote 54.4556-2.16031 Tan Hill Inn. At 1,732 ft (528 m), it is Britain’s highest pub, perched on the edge of North Yorkshire near the County Durham boundary. Once the centre of a mining village, the surrounding buildings have long vanished, leaving the inn in stark moorland isolation. It offers accommodation, which may be essential in winter, as heavy snowfall can leave the area cut off for days, as happened most recently in 2021.

Distance

9 mi

The route descends northeast over Sleightholme Moor, again with the lane as a bail-out, then turns north to cross God's Bridge, a natural limestone slab, before reaching 54.517-2.0113 Bowes (mile 133). Bowes is a village at the junction of A66 with A67. It has accommodation and a crumbly castle, but what it doesn't have is the Bowes Museum, that collection of bling and finery is 3 miles up A67 at Barnard Castle.

Distance

10 mi

To continue, back-track west for a mile on farm lanes to God's Bridge. You need your wits about you crossing A66, especially in poor visibility, as traffic blats along. The route crosses Cotherstone Moor then descends to the reservoirs in Baldersdale. Hereabouts in 954 AD Eric Bloodaxe was murdered, according to the Viking saga Eiríksmál.

No amenities in Baldersdale so ascend the next moor via Hannah's Meadows. Hannah Hauxwell (1926-2018) farmed these acres for over 50 years, mostly single-handed and hewing to age-old methods, so the pasture retained an eco-system swept away elsewhere. It's a riot of wild flowers in early summer, and is managed by a wildlife trust. But Hannah's life was hard labour in poverty and biting winter winds, lacking electricity until the media discovered her in 1972.

Cross the low moor to the reservoirs in the next side valley, then head northeast into 54.6229-2.077914 Middleton-in-Teesdale (mile 143). Middleton is a large village with accommodation and a bus from Barnard Castle.

Distance

21 mi

The Tees and its tributaries descend from the moors over a series of hard dolerite ridges, forming waterfalls, and the route stays in the valley to visit these. Be on the southwest riverbank, with the lane to Holwick as a bail-out. Three miles upstream, Low Force is a cascade rather than a waterfall.

Continuing upstream along the southwest bank of the Tees, you’ll soon reach 54.650278-2.18757 High Force , about five miles from Middleton. This dramatic two-stage waterfall plunges 69 ft (21 m) and is especially impressive after rain. Approaching on foot gives you a free view, unlike the visitors who drive up B6277 on the northeast bank and must pay for access, if they can manage to park. The route stays on the southwest bank before crossing to Forest-in-Teesdale. You might lay over here before the long windy hike to Dufton.

Following the river upstream, the next major feature is 54.65395-2.28988 Cauldron Snout , a long cascade just below Cow Green Reservoir. It’s reached by continuing along the north bank from Forest, or via a longer loop using the public access lane. This reservoir was an environmental cause célèbre in the 1960s when it submerged two square miles of rare sub-arctic habitat. But the water was needed for the population and industries of lower Teesside and demonstrated that no terrain in Britain was sacrosanct.

The reservoir marks the boundary of County Durham crossing into Cumbria. An alternative route north is by the access lane then into the valley of the South Tyne towards Alston, scenically a world away from the Tyne's urban lower reaches. However the Pennine Way trends west along Maize Beck. Here and throughout Cumbria you must pay heed to the red flags of Army training ranges, but these don't impinge on the footpath. The "waterfall" marked on the map is a drop all of 20 cm, there ought to be a law against this sort of thing.

The final viewpoint, 54.630021-2.3963289 High Cup Nick is a ravine at the west edge of the upper Tees plateau, the head of a U-shaped valley. Stay on its north rim then descend by farm lanes into 54.620278-2.48194415 Dufton (mile 164). Dufton is a small village with accommodation, set in lowland fields and once a centre for lead mining. It's three miles north of Appleby, best known for its gypsy horse fair, and standing on A66 and the Leeds-Carlisle railway.

Distance

17 mi

Climb north onto Knock Fell at 2,606 ft (794 m), then follow a switchback route along the escarpment to Great Dun Fell at 2,762 ft (842 m), with a possible bail-out via an old miners’ track. Continue over Little Dun Fell at 2,782 ft (848 m) to reach Cross Fell at 2,930 ft (890 m), the highest point on the entire Pennine Way. After all the effort, you’ll at least be able to answer that pub quiz question with confidence.

The descent of Cross Fell is initially boggy then joins a farm lane heading northeast, so you make good progress down into Garrigill, where the alternative route from Cow Green rejoins. This tiny village has accommodation, but another 4 miles down the South Tyne valley brings you to 54.81-2.44116 Alston (mile 181) with more.

Alston is a former mining village where lead was the primary ore, with silver and zinc as valuable by-products. The many pubs that once served the mining community vanished as the industry declined in the 20th century, but the village still offers accommodation and a heritage railway.

Distance

16 mi

The route stays at low altitude along the flanks of the South Tyne valley, always close to A689 until that veers away towards Brampton. Cross Hartleyburn Common and A69 to 54.982-2.53417 Greenhead (mile 199), where the North Tyne terminates the Pennines. Greenhead has accommodation but there's more in nearby Haltwhistle, linked by bus and on the Carlisle-Newcastle railway. At Greenhead the Pennine Way turns east to follow Hadrian's Wall.

Distance

42 mi

This is the best section of the wall, with the Roman Army Museum, Vindolanda, the scarp above Crag Lough, and Housesteads. There's a coast-to-coast path along the entire wall but the other sections are not as scenic or preserved.From Housesteads the Pennine Way strikes northeast along forestry tracks in conifer plantations towards 55.145-2.25418 Bellingham (mile 214). Bellingham is a village with accommodation, a museum and remains of an ironworks. An occasional bus winds up the valley from Hexham.

Distance

15 mi

You begin north of Bellingham across rolling moors with soft, wet footing, then crest Deer Play and Whitley Pike before reaching Padon Hill’s iconic “pepperpot” cairn. The final stretch follows forestry tracks through Redesdale Forest and descends along the River Rede into the quiet village of 55.318-2.37119 Byrness (mile 241). Byrness is a tiny settlement in the Cheviot Hills, which mark the border with Scotland. The closest accommodation is the Redesdale Arms 7 miles down the valley, and although it's on A68 there's only one bus a day, plying between Jedburgh and Newcastle. This is a problem, because coming up is the long final stage.

Distance

27 mi

The northernmost stage from Byrness is 27 miles along the ridge of the Cheviots, with no habitation or road access along the way. It can be done in one long day, or you can bivvy at the two refuge huts (bothies), or you can break it into three there-and-back walks from the valleys. The path climbs steeply from Byrness through forest then heads north along an open ridge to enter Scotland near Ogre Hill. It then follows the border fence, switching between England and Scotland, past the Roman fort at Chew Green and Roman "Dere Street". It comes onto the exposed ridge climbing to the well-named Windy Gyle at 2,031 ft (619 m) and Cairn Hill at 2,438 ft (743 m).

A side path branches east to the summit of The Cheviot at 2,674 ft (815 m), adding two miles there and back to the 27, with a flagstone path across the boggy plateau. But the main path descends northwest, following the border fence past a refuge hut, climbing The Schil at 1,972 ft (601 m) then coming down into gentler countryside, to end at the Border Hotel in 55.547313-2.27566120 Kirk Yetholm (mile 268).

Here you'll find accommodation and a sporadic bus from Kelso. It stands on St Cuthbert's Way, a 62-mile trail from Melrose Abbey east via St Boswells and Maxton to Kirk Yetholm, then east to the coast and by tidal footpath to Lindisfarne. These trails are all lowland in nature.