The trekking season runs from late May to October, with the most stable weather between July and September. Mountain weather in the Balkans is unpredictable. Thunderstorms are common in summer afternoons, so start early to avoid exposed ridges during storm risk. If you hear thunder or see lightning, descend from high ground immediately. Nights can drop below freezing in high camps like Dobërdol, so bring adequate clothing or blankets.

In June and September, snow or sleet can occur at altitude, and some passes, especially in late spring, may still have old snowfields. Use caution crossing them; in early season an ice axe and microspikes may be helpful, or ask locals about conditions. Always check the forecast when in towns such as Plav or Pejë and be prepared to adjust plans. If heavy rain is forecast, consider shorter stages or waiting it out, as rain can make steep sections dangerously muddy and cause stream levels to rise. A few small stream crossings could become tricky in flood conditions, but none involve large rivers.

Large portions of the Peaks of the Balkans are far from roads and medical facilities. Mobile phone coverage is limited and unreliable. Carry a paper map and compass as backup. In case of injury, self-rescue may be necessary, so hike within your limits and stay on official trails. Inform someone of your planned route each day. Renting a local SIM card for each country can improve connectivity. The European emergency number ☏ 112 (free call) works across Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo, but response times in remote areas can be slow. There is no dedicated mountain rescue service, though local alpine clubs or border police may assist.

The trail is marked with red-and-white waymarks and signposts at key junctions, making it relatively easy to follow in clear weather. However, fog or early-season snow can obscure the path, and some sections such as parts of the Valbona to Çerem stage have limited markings.

A distinctive feature of the Peaks of the Balkans trail is that it crosses international borders outside of official checkpoints, requiring hikers to obtain special permits from the police authorities in Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro. These permits, typically arranged in advance through local agencies or the trail office, involve submitting passport details, planned route, and travel dates. Kosovo issues a confirmation email, Montenegro provides a stamped document, and Albania gives verbal approval (as of May 2025). Hikers must carry printed copies of permits and passports at all times, as random police checks may occur, especially near Dobërdol to Milishevc and Vusanje to Theth. Fines of around €300 can be issued for unauthorized crossings.

There are no border signs in the mountains, so hikers are responsible for staying on the permitted route. It is also advisable to carry travel insurance and emergency contact information. Each country has its own visa policy, and since the trail does not pass through immigration facilities, travellers should check entry requirements in advance. Serbia does not recognize Kosovo’s entry stamp, so if you plan to visit Serbia afterward, you should exit Kosovo through Montenegro or North Macedonia.

If skipping trail sections or arranging transfers between stages, use official road border crossings such as Gusinje–Plavica (Montenegro–Albania) or Qafë Morinë (Albania–Kosovo). The trail crossings at Theth–Vusanje, Dobërdol–Milishevc, and Drelaj–Babino Polje are for hikers only and not connected by roads.

No technical climbing skills are needed, but good stamina and route-finding ability are essential. Expect to hike 6–9 hours a day with a full pack. Guided tours are available, and solo trekking is also common.

• OpenStreetMap: The trail is waymarked on Waymarked Trails: Peaks of the Balkans
• Maps: “Peaks of the Balkans” printed topo map 1:60,000 (GIZ, 2017) and Albanian Alps maps are sold locally.

Prepare for a wide range of mountain conditions. Sturdy, broken-in hiking boots are essential for rocky trails and occasional snow patches. Dress in layers suitable for warm days and near-freezing nights at higher elevations. Even in summer, bring a fleece or lightweight down jacket. Weather can change quickly, so pack reliable rain gear. Due to strong UV at altitude, carry sun protection including a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen.

Trekking poles are highly recommended to ease the strain on steep climbs and descents. A sleeping bag liner or lightweight sleeping bag is useful when staying in basic huts or shepherd shelters, although most guesthouses provide bedding. On remote stages, carry at least 2 L of water and high-energy snacks, as there are no shops between villages.

Nearly every stage ends in a village or seasonal settlement with accommodation available. Lodging ranges from basic family homestays to small guesthouses or mountain huts. Hosts typically provide dinner, breakfast, and sometimes a packed lunch. Vegetarian meals can usually be arranged with advance notice.

Booking ahead is recommended in peak season (July–August), especially in popular places like Theth, Valbona, and Rugova Valley, as the number of guesthouses is limited. Bring cash (euros or local currency) to pay for meals and accommodation, as there are no ATMs in the villages. The only towns on or near the trail with banking services are Plav and Pejë.

If you are camping, ask for permission before pitching your tent near villages or farms. Always follow Leave No Trace principles.

Although the trail does not exceed 2,300 m, long hiking days and steep climbs require good physical condition. Regular training hikes are recommended beforehand.

Distance

13.9 km

Duration

6-8 hr

Elevation gain

1068 m

Elevation loss

792 m

From the trailhead at 42.39583319.7744441 Theth (745 m), a footpath heads east, climbing through mixed beech and pine forest. After crossing a wooden bridge over the Theth River, the path ascends steeply via switchbacks to the Valbona Pass (1,759 m), a broad saddle marked by a cairn and sign, and the highest point of this stage. From the pass, there are panoramic views: jagged limestone peaks surround the Valbona and Theth valleys, and on a clear day you can see as far as Komani Lake.

The trail descends on a rocky mule track into Valbona Valley National Park, passing alpine meadows and scattered shepherd huts. As you return to the tree line, you enter dense beech forest where you might spot endemic wildflowers. The stage ends at the hamlet of 42.452419.89142 Valbona (950 m), a small settlement of guesthouses and farms. This is one of the most frequently walked sections of the trail.

Distance

19.8 km

Duration

6-7 hr

Elevation gain

540 m

Elevation loss

380 m

Leaving Valbona, this stage is a gentler day that leads to one of Albania's remotest villages. The trail begins along a dirt road along the Valbona River, heading north through the widening valley. After about an hour, near the village of Dragobi, the route veers east into a side valley. Many trekkers arrange a short vehicle transfer for the first 6 to 8 km to skip the road walk out of Valbona. At the junction by a bridge, look for trail signs pointing to Çerem.

The path climbs gradually through mixed forest and open slopes, with the river cascading in the gorge below. You will pass a couple of shepherd shelters that may offer fresh cow or goat milk in season. The ascent is steady but moderate. Compared to other stages, today involves no high pass. As you near 42.492919.96093 Çerem (1,150 m), the landscape opens into pastures. Çerem is a tiny alpine village near the Montenegrin border, largely used as summer pastureland. There are no shops; supplies here are extremely limited, but one or two simple guesthouses provide meals. Electricity is available only for a few hours via generator or solar power. Between Valbona and Çerem, trail marking is sparse.

Distance

15.6 km

Duration

5½-7 hr

Elevation gain

1025 m

Elevation loss

440 m

This is one of the most scenic stages, traversing remote highlands up to the tri-country border area. From Çerem, the route heads north through oak and pine forest before emerging into alpine grasslands. A long, steady climb leads to the ridge of Vranica, where you enter the Gashi Nature Reserve. This UNESCO World Heritage site protects one of the last primeval beech forests in the Balkans. Watch for wildlife such as chamois or capercaillie in the woods. The trail crosses a mountain saddle (2,000 m), offering sweeping views. To the west lies Montenegro, and ahead are the rolling high pastures of Dobërdol. A short descent leads to 42.54645120.0665134 Dobërdol (1,750 m).

Dobërdol is a seasonal farming settlement. In summer, several families live here tending sheep, cows, and horses. There is no phone signal or electricity, except possibly solar lights. A highly recommended side trip here is to hike up to Tromedja Peak (2,366 m), which is a two-hour detour one way. From Tromedja’s summit, you can stand at the point where Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro meet. The 360-degree panorama is especially memorable at sunrise or sunset. Many hikers choose to stay an extra night in Dobërdol to make this ascent or to rest before the more difficult stages in Kosovo. This is the trail’s last stop in Albania; the next day you will cross into Kosovo.

Distance

18 km

Duration

6-7½ hr

Elevation gain

915 m

Elevation loss

980 m

This demanding stage carries you over a high pass into Kosovo's Rugova Mountains. Departing Dobërdol, you climb east on a mule track through herb-covered meadows. After about 2 km, you reach the border ridge marked by a simple sign or cairn. This is the entry into Kosovo. The trail continues uphill toward the base of Gjeravica (2,656 m), Kosovo’s highest peak. Gjeravica appears as a rounded summit to the south. Energetic hikers can leave their packs and make a detour to the summit and back in about 3 hours, weather permitting. Otherwise, follow the main route around Gjeravica’s shoulder, passing glacial tarns and rocky outcrops. The trail then descends into a wide valley dotted with summer huts, known as Smiljača on some maps. The trail follows a stream downhill and enters spruce forest as it loses elevation. By late afternoon, you arrive at 42.64036820.1492055 Milishevc (1,650 m).

Milishevc has a handful of newly built guesthouses, which are more comfortable than those in Dobërdol, and are often a welcome place to recharge. You can enjoy a hot shower and perhaps a cold beer. The village is known for its traditional dairy products, and dinner might include local yoghurt or grilled cheese. This stage includes some trail junctions, so follow the red and white markings carefully.

Distance

16 km

Duration

6-8 hr

Elevation gain

860 m

Elevation loss

1275 m

This stage covers varied terrain and takes you deep into Kosovo's Rugova Mountains. From Milishevc, the trail climbs north through shrub and pine until it reaches a high ridge called Bjeshka e Lumbardhit. This ascent is steep but offers excellent views back toward Gjeravica and previous peaks. At the top of the ridge (2,100 m), you reach a panoramic meadow called Lumbardhi ridge, which offers sweeping views over the Rugova Valley far below. The path then descends sharply on a narrow trail through dwarf pines. Use caution here, as the slope is steep and can be slippery on loose gravel.

At the bottom (1,200 m), you reach Rugova Gorge road and a spot called Rugova Camp, which has a riverside campsite and restaurant. Many hikers stop here for lunch. Rugova Camp serves fresh trout from nearby fish ponds and other local dishes. It is also a convenient rest stop after the descent. If needed, a vehicle pickup can be arranged here to skip the next climb.

From Rugova Camp, the trail climbs again, first along a gravel road and then a footpath through pine forest and open pastures. This final ascent of about 600 m is relatively gentle. 42.728320.15946 Reka e Allagës (1,650 m), is a dispersed village of wooden chalets and farms spread along the hillside. There are a couple of simple guesthouses here, known for their friendly hosts. On clear evenings, you can see the outline of Hajla Mountain (2,403 m), to the north, marking the Montenegro border that you will cross the next day.

If the previous stage felt long, you can split it by staying in Milishevc, hiking a short day to Rugova Camp, and then continuing to Reka e Allagës. This option requires arranging an extra night and possibly a short transfer.

Distance

23 km

Duration

6-8 hr

Elevation gain

1250 m

Elevation loss

1130 m

This stage has a major climb, an international border, and a road section. Some hikers choose to shorten it by using transport. Depart Reka e Allagës early to tackle the ascent to the border. The trail climbs through high meadows toward Leqinat (also called Liqenat), a pair of glacial lakes near the frontier. After about 3 hours, you reach Guri I Kuq (2,200 m), a ridge at the Kosovo–Montenegro border. Crossing into Montenegro, you enter the Bogićevice highlands of Prokletije National Park. The views are expansive: Hajla Peak rises to the south, and green valleys stretch west into Montenegro.

Descend through alpine pastures to Lake Liqinati (1,850 m), a small oval lake suitable for a picnic or swim on hot days. The path continues down into beech and fir forest and reaches a gravel road at Kučište, where there is a mountain hut or campground. Many hikers arrange a jeep transfer here to avoid the final 6 km of road walking. If you're walking, follow the quiet road alongside the Perchani stream. Due to the shape of the border, you briefly re-enter Kosovo near Çerrovodë. There are no checkpoints here, but note this re-entry. The trail ends in the village of 42.70722220.1227787 Drelaj (1,200 m). This town one of the largest in the Rugova region, located in a scenic gorge.

As an alternate option you can divide this stage in two, stopping at Liqenat or Kučište (~14 km), then walking the remaining 9 km to Drelaj the next day. Camping is possible near Lake Liqinati.

Distance

15 km

Duration

7-8 hr

Elevation gain

1150 m

Elevation loss

1110 m

This stage returns to Montenegro's Accursed Mountains National Park, and contains the final exit from Kosovo. Follow a paved lane out of Drelaj for 2 km to the trailhead. Some hikers arrange a ride to skip this uphill road section. The route becomes a footpath, climbing through forest to a mountain pass marked by border stones. Re-entering Montenegro, you enter a high alpine area called Babino Polje ("Grandma's Field"), a seasonal pasture settlement. The trail passes the hamlet of Liqoči and Maja e Kuče peak on the border ridge. In summer, you may see sheep herds and shepherds living in stone huts. Continue west across the undulating Babino Polje plateau, which is dotted with boulders and dwarf pines. By early afternoon, you reach 42.61298720.0491798 Babino Polje (1,730 m).

It is the first Montenegrin village on the trail and has a couple of simple guesthouses. One is a refurbished katun with wide views, another is a farmstay where you can sample local honey and pršut (smoked ham). After checking in, consider a short walk of about 20 minutes to Hrid Lake (1,970 m) nestled in a pine forest. The lake lies 2 km south of Babino Polje on a marked trail. Local legend says a swim in its waters brings luck.

Distance

20 km

Duration

6½-8 hr

Elevation gain

720 m

Elevation loss

1250 m

This mostly downhill stage leads from the highlands to the town of Plav. Depart Babino Polje heading northwest on a jeep track through pastureland and the last katuns of the route. A Yugoslav-era border monument stands on a nearby hill, marking the tri-point of Montenegro, Kosovo, and Albania. The trail descends into dense conifer forest. Follow red-and-white Montenegrin trail blazes through a network of logging tracks. Lake Hrid is a short detour if not visited the previous day, especially scenic in the morning. As the forest thins, views of the Plav Valley appear. The trail eventually joins a country lane leading into 42.59555619.9459 Plav, which sits at 950 m altitude.

Plav is a small town beside a glacial lake with around 3,500 residents. It has guesthouses, small hotels, shops, bakeries, eateries, ATMs, and pharmacies. Plav is a good place to restock or take a rest day. Some hikers end their trek here, while others continue toward Vusanje. The trail actually bypasses Plav slightly before continuing on, and a car transfer is possible to shorten the next stage.

Distance

27 km

Duration

10-11 hr

Elevation gain

1150 m

Elevation loss

1300 m

This is the longest stage by distance and includes a return to Albania. Start early, especially in summer when it gets hot in the afternoon. Departing from the center of Plav, the trail initially follows an asphalt road, transitioning to a dirt track after about 0.5 km. This section ascends gently for approximately 7 km through pastoral landscapes, with optional vehicle transfers available to bypass this portion. 

The path then enters a dense forest, leading to a meadow with a fresh water source. From here, a steep climb begins towards Bor Peak (2,106 m), offering panoramic views of Lake Plav and the surrounding Accursed Mountains. 

After summiting, the trail descends through alpine meadows and past traditional shepherd huts, eventually reaching the village of 42.52666719.84611110 Vusanje (1,022 m). The descent is significant and can be taxing on the knees.

Distance

21 km

Duration

7-8 hr

Elevation gain

1110 m

Elevation loss

1440 m

The trail follows a dirt track south through the Ropojana Valley, a limestone canyon with springs and a dry riverbed. After about 45 minutes, you pass the 42.51186419.834741 Blue Eye of Kaprre, a turquoise karst spring where you can refill water before the climb. The trail then ascends west toward the Albania border with a 1,000-m climb and multiple switchbacks. A rocky viewpoint midway offers views of Gusinje and the Karanfili peaks of Montenegro's Prokletije National Park. At Pejë Pass, also called Qafa e Pejës (1,711 m), you cross the border into Albania and overlook Theth Valley.

The descent into Theth drops more than 1,000 m along a steep but well-trodden path beneath cliffs. Snow or mud may be present in spring. After around 3 hours, the trail flattens and follows the river to Theth, completing the circuit. Some guesthouses in Theth offer celebratory drinks.

Near Theth, be sure to check out the 42.377419.795232 Grunas Waterfall.

It is possible to break the stage by staying in Zastan, a shepherd hut area just before Pejë Pass. Alternatively, a 4x4 from Vusanje can shorten the hike via the rough track.

The Accursed Mountains are home to wildlife such as bears, wolves, and lynx, but these animals tend to avoid humans. Shepherd dogs guarding livestock are more likely to be encountered. These are often large breeds like Sharplaninac or Karakachan, bred for protectiveness. If a dog approaches barking, stop, speak calmly, and avoid sudden movements. Do not run. If the shepherd is nearby, they usually call the dog off. Trekking poles can help deter aggressive behavior.

Water from springs is generally clean, but it's best to use a filter if livestock are grazing upstream or if the source is low in the valley. In village homestays, sanitation can be basic; some places have outhouses. Bring hand sanitizer and maintain good hygiene to reduce the risk of illness.

Carry a basic first aid kit with blister treatment supplies, pain relievers, and any personal medications. Ticks can be present in lower grassy areas, particularly in spring and early summer, so use insect repellent and check your body thoroughly each evening.