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Asian Bosphorus
This article only describes the Asian bank of the Bosphorus, and nearby sections of its Black Sea coast. For the European bank of the Bosphorus (and the nearby sections of the Black Sea coast) see Istanbul/European Bosphorus.
The Asian Bosphorus is the area of Istanbul along the banks of the channel of the same name that connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara, and separates Europe from Asia.
Understand
[edit]| "Maiden’s Tower" Long ago, a Byzantine emperor was devastated when an oracle foretold that his beloved daughter would die from a venomous snake bite on her 18th birthday. Determined to outsmart fate, he built a tower on a small islet in the Bosphorus, isolating her from the land where danger lurked. The princess lived safely, visited only by her father and trusted servants, until one fateful day when a basket of fruits was sent as a gift. Hidden inside was a serpent, which bit her as she reached for the fruit, fulfilling the prophecy. Heartbroken, the emperor realized that destiny could not be escaped, and the tower, forever linked to the tragic tale, became known as the Maiden’s Tower. |
Üsküdar, historically known as Chrysopolis in ancient Greek and later Scutari under the Ottomans, is one of Istanbul’s oldest districts, serving as a key gateway between Asia and Europe, on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. It boasts a rich history reflected in its Ottoman-era mosques, bustling markets, and scenic waterfront.
Beykoz, once known as Amikos in antiquity, and later a favored retreat for Ottoman elites, is a green and tranquil district along the northern Bosphorus. Renowned for its lush forests, historic waterfront mansions (yali), and scenic coastline, it offers a peaceful escape from the city’s hustle.
Get in
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| Overland to Üsküdar Kéraban-le-têtu ("Keraban the Inflexible") is the stubborn title character of the 1883 novel by Jules Verne. Keraban Agha is a merchant who lives in Üsküdar, Asia side, but works in Galata, Europe side. He has two business visitors from Rotterdam, and wants to entertain them at home - but the government have imposed a new tax on crossing the Bosphorus. It's ten para - a para is 1/40th of a kuruş, which is 1/100th of a Turkish lira, so it's an amount you could barely see with a microscope. But it's the principle! Damn this government! I'll show them! Kereban is as fixated on getting his guests to Üsküdar as he is on not paying the tax - so he leads them there the wrong way. They go overland round the entire 4000 km coastline of the Black Sea via what is now Bulgaria, Romania, Ukraine, Crimea, Northern Caucasus, Abkhazia, and north coast of Turkey. Apart from the prospect of dinner, there's also a race against time, involving a fair young woman and an inheritance, and dastardly villains out to thwart Kereban's progress. The trio arrive at his residence after a 45-day journey. In December 2008 a group of Turkish artists repeated the journey, under the name “In the Footsteps of Jules Verne.” They had to arch around Moldova to avoid the conflict zone of Transnistria, were unable to cross the Russia-Georgia border, and encountered many other hassles. They got around in 14 days but declared that it was even harder to follow the same route after 125 years. |
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By rail
[edit]Istanbul's terminus for high-speed trains from Ankara and other eastern cities is Söğütlüçeşme, which is only two stops from the 1 Üsükdar Station. The station is also a terminus for M5. Another metro line, M14, is due to open in Q4 '26.
By bus
[edit]2 Harem is the main bus station, with buses arriving from all over Asian Turkey. It’s mid-way between Üsküdar and Kadıköy and has frequent ferry links with Eminönü/Sirkeci. Cross-Bosphorus buses across the bridges are slow at any time, and tediously slow in rush hour (07:00-10:00 going west into Europe, 18:00-20:00 coming east into Asia). Buses across the bridges require two tickets rather than one. However the Metrobüs (Bus Rapid Transport) is quicker, as it has a dedicated bus lane, and only needs one ticket. It runs from Beylikdüzü out in the western suburbs via Edirnekapı just outside the old city and Mecidiyeköy in the business district to Söğütlüçeşme just east of downtown Kadıköy. Metrobüs stations are usually a little off the usual tourist trail, but easily reached by a variety of public transportation.
By boat
[edit]This is the most pleasant method to go across the Bosphorus, and always quicker than trying to cross the congested bridges. The main ferry lines are:
There are also some ferry lines with multiple stops throughout the Bosphorus such as, Çengelköy-Kuzguncuk-Kabataş or the Boshprous Line.
By car
[edit]O-1 connects to Bosphorus Bridge, O-4 or E-80 TEM connects to Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge and lastly 0-7 connects to Yavuz Sultan Selim Bridge. There is also a causeway (sahilyolu) from one end of the bosphorus to the other.
By bicycle
[edit]There are some marked bicycle lanes along the causeway. The bike lane is well-maintained but watch out for pedestrians which will be plenty during nice weathers.
Or go overland, the wrong way round just to prove you can: see the infobox.
One could also swim from the other side of the Bosphorus, no jokes. And no, not talking about the annual 'Bosphorus Cross Continental Swim'. It is not forbidden by law, as long as if one does not threaten security of sea transport, or of course their own health. A group called 'Sarayburnu Fatihleri' (Seraglio Conquerers) are actually doing this on a daily basis.
See
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- 1 Maiden's Tower (Kız Kulesi), off Salacak (Boats hourly from Salacak (Public transport:
Üsküdar 1.2 km, 
Üsküdar 1.2 km, 
Kız Kulesi 300 m), and every hour and a half between 11:00 and 17:00 from Galataport, Karaköy-Galata, European Side). Daily 09:00-20:00. One of the icons of the city is also called the Leander's Tower, on a Bosphorus islet off Salacak. The local myth ascribes its name to a princess, whose father wanted to protect her in this offshore tower from a prophecy that she would be killed by a snakebite on her birthday, but the snake found its way inside a basket of fruits — ironically a birthday present from her father — and you've probably already guessed the rest of the story. In actual timeline, it served as a defensive structure (there was a wall connecting it to the Asian mainland, and the Byzantines used to stretch a chain from here to the European mainland across the mouth of the Bosphorus to shut it to adversary shipping in times of conflict, but they didn't during the final Ottoman siege in 1453), as a customs and quarantine station, as a lighthouse, as a warehouse of various sorts of goods, and as a high-end restaurant before the last restoration finished in 2023 dedicated it as a museum. There is a light show viewable from the mainland every day at 21:00. €27 + 50 TL boat trip. 
- 2 Selimiye Barracks. Also Florence Nightingale Museum.
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- 3 Kuzguncuk ( Fıstıkağacı 1.1 km, Kuzguncuk, Kuzguncuk; on the Bosphorus between Üsküdar and Beylerbeyi, just south of the foot of the Bosphorus Bridge). This attractive neighbourhood was home to a large Christian and Jewish population until some decades ago and still has a number of sights like two synagogues, some churches among which the Armenian Surp Krikor Lusavoriç, dozens of wooden houses and a Jewish and Christian cemetery.
- 4 Beylerbeyi (
15 Temmuz Şehitler Köprüsü 1.3 km, Beylerbeyi, Beylerbeyi). is a small port with a popular fishing dock. There are many restaurants: those on the port-side serve alcohol and are moderately expensive, those down the side-streets are cheaper. Notable buildings include the 18th-century Hamid-i Evvel mosque, and the 19th-century highway tunnel (which is closed as of Dec 2018). But the standout attraction is the palace. - 5 Beylerbeyi Palace (Beylerbeyi Sarayı), Beylerbeyi ( 15 Temmuz Şehitler Köprüsü 1.3 km, Beylerbeyi 600 m, Beylerbeyi Sarayı 280 m; under the legs of the Bosphorus Bridge), ☏ +90 216 321-93-20, fax: +90 216 321-93-22. Tu-Su 09:00-16:00. Bling palace-cum-summer house in mid-19th-century Ottoman style. Notable for its reception hall, bathing pavilion, and second floor restroom with spectacular Bosphorus view. Visit by guided tour only, these start every half-hour. 60 TL.
- 6 Çengelköy ( Çengelköy, Çengelköy). About 15 minutes walking north of Beylerbeyi lies the historical fishing village Çengelköy. Its long history is attested by a 800-year-old sycamore tree on one of the two main terraced squares, and the Byzantine Aya Yorgi church. The restaurants and piers of Çengelköy offer some of the best panoramas along the Bosphorus, including a view on the old city under the first bridge. The neighborhood was popular amongst TV directors during the 1970s and it has become a (possibly the most) popular location to have lunch or dinner on the eastern side of Istanbul. Many historic mansions have been restored and multiple boutique chocolatiers were opened. Most restaurants in Çengelköy don't offer alcoholic beverages. Exceptions include the restaurant at the main pier (Iskele), and Tapasuma, the restaurant of hotel 'Sumahan on the Water', located in a former Ottoman Raki distillery. You can get there by taking bus 15 or 15F from Üsküdar, it is just a few stops further than Beylerbeyi. Going to Çengelköy by car is not advised; traffic can be very intense on the narrow road along this side of the Bosphorus.
- 7 Kuleli Military Academy. One of the oldest functioning academies.
- 8 Çamlıca Hill (Çamlıca Tepesi) ( Kısıklı 1 km, Turistik Çamlıca Tesisleri 900 m). One of the highest hills of Istanbul, at 288 m asl. Since it dominates a great part of the city, it is the site of Çamlıca Tower, a 2021-built telecommunications tower and the highest structure of Istanbul, with observation decks (daily 10:00-22:00, 450 TL, discount for domestic visitors). The rest of the summit is a public park dotted by cafes with an Ottoman-themed decor. The park is sponsored by the government, so expect lower prices on food and drink than usual. The cafe in a building at the very top of the hill is moderately expensive, but you'll get excellent food and service.
- 9 Anadolu Citadel (Anadolu Hisarı) ( Anadolu Hisarı 130 m, Anadolu Hisarı 170 m; up on the Bosphorus bank). Interior is closed. A medieval citadel on the Bosphorus at the mouth of the Göksu creek. It was built in the late 14th century to control (polite word for "choke off") shipping along the Bosphorus, which narrows to 660 m at this point. It worked in tandem with Rumeli Citadel, built some 50 years later on the European bank. It fell into disrepair but was restored in the 1990s. You can't go in, but it's a pleasant setting; the entire village is named Anadolu Hisarı after the fort and has many traditional wooden houses (yalı). Ferries along the Bosphorus call here.
- 10 Küçüksu Palace (Küçüksu Kasrı) ( Küçüksu 100 m, Küçüksu Kasrı 200 m; just south of the citadel). If you are already in the area, it's worth considering to visit this waterside neo-Baroque manor, built in the 19th century for the countryside and hunting excursions of the Ottoman dynasty. The area, where the Göksu River flows into the Bosphorus, was known as "the Sweet Waters of Asia" by the pioneer European travellers of the epoch (as opposed to "the Sweet Waters of Europe", another contemporary elite recreational area on the other side of the city, where the Kağıthane and Alibeyköy Rivers empty into the Golden Horn).
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- 11 Anadolu Kavağı (Kavak) ( Anadolu Kavağı, Anadolu Kavağı). A village with an impressive citadel overlooking the Bosphorus and its mouth into the Black Sea. By land it's accessible only by a hairpinning road through the forest, with few buses. It's best reached by ferry from Eminönü (twice daily) or Sariyer (frequent). In the village, a road is signposted up to the hilltop Yoros citadel (a little more than 1 km, 20 min on foot, free admission). There's a pleasant area with cafés by the ferry pier; the place gets crowded at weekends during summer. Nasty big dogs stalk the citadel area at night. See Istanbul#The_classic_Bosphorus_cruise.
- 12 Mecidiye Pavillion.
- 13 Beykoz Glass and Crystal Museum.
- 14 Marine and Fisheries Museum.
- 15 Yoros Castle. It's as close as the casual visitor to Istanbul gets to the Black Sea. Not much of a vista but it allows you to appreciate the strategic significance of the Bosphorus.
- 16 Polonezköy ( Cumhuriyet Köyü 5.8 km; 40 km east of city, from Highway O-7 exit for Beykoz). The "Polish village" was founded in 1842 by Polish settlers in the wake of the failed uprising against Russian Imperial rule, and reinforced by more settlers after every subsequent civil upheaval until Poland's independence in 1918. Most then returned, but several stayed on, adopting Turkish citizenship but maintaining their Polish language and culture. The village has houses in traditional Polish style, a 1914 little Catholic chapel, and the Church of Matka Boska Częstochowska. It's set in woodland (a nature park) and is a popular day-trip from the city. There's four restaurants and half a dozen small hotels, plus more of each in nearby Beykoz.
- 17 IMOGA Graphic Arts Museum.
Do
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A bosphorus tour is a must-do.
- 1 Emaar Square. Complex with a shopping centre, a skydeck and an aquarium.
- 2 Tarihi Çinili Hamamı, Çavuşdere Cd 204, Selamsız-Üsküdar ( M5 Bağlarbaşı 650 m,
Marmara Üniversitesi İlahiyat Fakültesi 650 m), ☏ +90 216 553 15 93 (men), +90 216 334 97 10 (women). Daily 07:00-22:00 (men), 08:00-19:30 (women). Turkish bath cheaper than the more touristy ones in the European side. - 3 Üsküdar Musical Society (Üsküdar Musıkî Cemiyeti), Halk Cd Emin Ongan Sk 10, Üsküdar ( M5 Üsküdar 700 m, Halk Caddesi 110 m), ☏ +90 216 553-66-55, [email protected]. Founded in 1918, the society is often considered the most respected of the social clubs offering classes in the classical Ottoman music, and catching up with their frequent public concerts is certainly a good way of entering the vast world of this genre.
- 4 Nakkaştepe. A park right next to the Bosphorus Bridge. Comes with an unforgettable zipline experience.
- 5 Hıdiv Kasrı.
- 6 Validebağ Park. Also Sultan Abdülaziz Hunting Lodge and Hababam Museum.
- 7 Çubuklu Silos.
- 8 Joshua's Hill. Believed to be the tomb of the biblical Joshua, it's the steepest hill in Istanbul which is closest to the sea.
- 9 Black Sea Coast. There's a string of small coastal resorts, from Poyrazköy just beyond the north Bosphorus bridge, through Anadolufenerli, Riva. Usual beach attractions, but the Black Sea is often rough so beware of the waves. There is also a big golf field, 'Mustafa V. Koç Course'.
Buy
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One could find local businesses, bazaars and fish markets in cetrums of both Üsküdar and Beykoz. The shopping centers are:
Eat
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Budget
[edit]- Balık-ekmek(literally “fish-bread”, a grilled fish sandwiched inside half a bread) is an increasingly popular low-budget meal in buffets along the coast. Some of the various fish restaurants in the market area a little inland also sell balık ekmek and mussel sandwiches with garlic sauce onto the street. Other popular options include kokoreç and patso.
- Kent Lokantası, Beltur and Sosyal Tesis: Municipality run cafes & restaurants.
Mid-range
[edit]- Kanaat Lokantası, Selmanipak Cad. no: 25, Üsküdar (in the street behind the sea dock), ☏ +90 216 553 37 91, fax: +90 216 341-68-55. daily 07:00-23:00. Kanaat Lokantası, which dates back to 1933, is famous for its traditional Ottoman cuisine as well as a variety of fascinating desserts. The prices are reasonable but they accept nothing but cash.
- 1 İmren Restaurant, Validei Atik mah, Miroğlu Sk. 10/A, 34664 Üsküdar, ☏ +90 216 341 19 79. daily 06:30-20:00. Serves traditional Turkish food. You could try kelle paca soup or doner here.
- Nakkaş Kebap, Gümüşyolu Cad. Eski Taş Ocağı Sokak No:27, Nakkaştepe, ☏ +90 216 495 65 15. A large restaurant with traditional Turkish kebap and "mezes" (appetizers).
Splurge
[edit]- Restaurants along the Kuleli Street such as Yakamoz, Del Mare, Kai, Boon.
Drink
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The specialty of the Bosphorus is for sure Salep which is easily found in most of the cafes. Coffee chains are very popular: Starbucks, Gloria Jean's Coffee, and Kahve Dünyası (especially for Turkish coffee). Cafes along the Salacak Sahil (Salacak Coast) and also the ones Kuzguncuk, Çengelköy (such as Tarihi Çınaraltı) and Anadolu Hisar are popular. Municipality run Belturs could be found in Çamlıca, Nakkaştepe and Beykoz.
As for alcoholic beverages, both Üsküdar and Beykoz districts boast traditional tavern or 'meyhane' culture. Meyhanes (taverns) mostly concentrated in Beylerbeyi. Popular options include: Inciraltı, Villa Bosphorus and Suppa. People who look for more vibrant and active nightlife in the Anatolian side of Istanbul, generally visit Kadıköy.
Fountains could be found throughout the district.
Sleep
[edit]Learn
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Some of the leading universities, like Boğaziçi and Marmara, have campuses in the vicinity.
Connect
[edit]Free wifi can be found in public squares and cafes. Şemsi Paşa Complex serves as a library.
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