Chiang Mai

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Chiang Mai

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Chiang Mai (เชียงใหม่) is the hub of northern Thailand. On a plain at an elevation of 316 m, surrounded by mountains and lush countryside, it is much greener and quieter than the capital and has a cosmopolitan air and a significant expatriate population, all factors which have led many from Bangkok to settle permanently in this "rose of the north".

Understand

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Ancient city wall and moat

With a population of over 127,000 registered residents in the city municipality (as of 2016), and 1.2 million in the urban city area as of 2022, it is Thailand's second-largest city. Founded in 1296 CE, Chiang Mai is a culturally and historically interesting city, at one time the capital of the ancient Lanna kingdom. In the rolling foothills of the Himalayas 700 km north of Bangkok, until the 1920s it could only be reached by an arduous river journey or an elephant trek. This isolation helped preserve Chiang Mai's distinctive charm, which remains intact.

Chiang Mai's historical centre is the walled city ("city" is chiang in the northern Thai dialect while mai is "new", hence Chiang Mai translates as "new city"). Sections of the wall dating to their restoration a few decades ago remain at the gates and corners, but of the rest only the moat remains.

Inside Chiang Mai's remaining city walls are more than 30 temples dating back to the founding of the principality, in a combination of Burmese, Sri Lankan, and Lanna Thai styles, decorated with beautiful wood carvings, Naga staircases, leonine and angelic guardians, gilded umbrellas and pagodas laced with gold filigree. The most famous is Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, which overlooks the city from a mountainside 13 km away.

Modern-day Chiang Mai has expanded in all directions, but particularly to the east to the banks of the Ping River (Mae Nam Ping), where Changklan Rd, the famous Night Bazaar, and the bulk of Chiang Mai's hotels and guest houses are located. Loi Kroh Rd (ถนนลอยเคราะห์) is the centre of the city's (tourist) night life.

Locals say you've not experienced Chiang Mai until you've seen the view from Doi Suthep, eaten a bowl of kao soi and purchased an umbrella from Bo Sang. Of course this is touristic blather, but kao soi, Bo Sang umbrellas and Doi Suthep are important cultural icons for the locals.

Orientation

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Chiang Mai's most salient physical feature is the moat and the remains of the wall surrounding the old city. About 6.5 km in circumference, it is the reference point for navigating around the city.

The east and west halves of the old city each have their own character. The east side has the highest concentration of guesthouses, restaurants, motorbike rental shops, travel agencies, and other tourist-oriented services. In particular, the northeast corner is a warren of guesthouses, restaurants, massage parlours, and other businesses catering to visitors. The western half is more Thai, with a school for the blind, a coffin shop, the Chiang Mai branch of Thailand's National Library and five or six mostly table-top barbecue restaurants (หมูกระทะ mǔu grà~​tá) almost always packed with Thai customers.

Clockwise from 12 o'clock (north), the main features of the moat and its environs areː

  • 1 Chang Phuak Gate (ประตูช้างเผือก) (Centre, N moat). Built by King Mangrai c.1296. Formerly known as Hua Wiang ("head of the city") Gate as it was considered the most important. King Saen Muang Ma (1365-1401) built an albino elephant (cháang-pʉ̀ʉak ช้างเผือก) monument outside the gate during his reign. The name of the gate then changed gradually to reflect its presence. Traditionally, kings-to-be entered the city through this gate on the way to their coronations. Taking the road north from here takes one to the intra-provincial bus station, also named Chang Phuak, then onward to Mae Rim, Pai, Chiang Rai and the Lao border.
  • 2 Si Phum Corner (แจ่งศรีภูมิ) (NE moat corner). Taking the left turn at this point takes one to the superhighway. Straight on leads to a bridge over the Ping River and beyond it, the rail and bus stations. Turning right (south) parallels the eastern boundary of the moat.
  • 3 Tha Phae Gate (ประตูท่าแพ) (Centre E moat). Built c.1296 as Chiang Ruak Gate after a nearby village. "Tha Phae" means "raft landing". There used to be an outer Tha Phae on the river and this gate, the inner Tha Phae. When the raft landing was supplanted by a bridge, this became the Tha Phae Gate. Rebuilt 1985-1986. The vicinity is by far the area most useful to visitors as it contains the greatest number of tourist services. The Night Bazaar lies due east, about a 15-min walk. There always seems be something going on in the plaza adjacent to the gate. Every Sunday a Walking Street Market originates here.
  • 4 Katam Corner (แจ่งก็ะตำ) (SE moat corner). A "katam" was a "fishtrap". Water flowing into the city from the Hua Lin corner (NW) of the city collected near this corner in a large pond full of fish. The corner took on the name of the tool used to catch the fish. Turning left here leads to the River Ping.
  • 5 Chiang Mai Gate (ประตูเชียงใหม่) (Centre, S moat). Built c.1296 at the founding of the city by King Mangrai. Traditionally the start of the road south to Lamphun. Reconstructed c.1800. Rebuilt 1966-1969. Nearby is the Chiang Mai (fresh) Market, selling foodstuffs. Adjacent are many food stalls, which are popular throughout the day and especially evening. Across the street on Wualai Road to the south is a Walking Street Market every Saturday.
  • 6 Saen Pung Gate (ประตูแสนปุง) (SW moat). First mentioned in historical records about 1545. Traditionally used to transport the dead out of the city to crematoria outside the city proper.
  • 7 Ku Huang Corner (แจ่งกู่เฮีอง) (SW corner). Refers to a stupa "kuu" containing the ashes of a person named "Huang". Rebuilt c. 1800. Turning left here leads to the Airport Plaza Shopping Centre and the airport.
  • 8 Suan Dok Gate (ประตูสวนดอก) (W side of moat). On the sign, misspelled in English as "saun dok". Little in the vicinity of interest to visitors. Outside this gate is Suthep Road, which leads to Wat Suan Dok, Chiang Mai University, and more.
  • 9 Hua Lin Corner (แจ่งหัวลิน) (Moat NW corner). "Hua" means "head" and "lin" means "aqueduct". At this corner the small brook, Hûuai Kaeo, was lifted over the city's rampart to provide fresh water to the settlement. Turning left here leads to the Nimmanhaemin District, Chiang Mai University, Maya Mall, and onward to Doi Suthep.

Climate

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Chiang Mai
Climate chart (explanation)
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Check Chiang Mai's 7-day forecast at TMD.go.th
Imperial conversion
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Chiang Mai's northern location and moderate elevation results in the city having a more temperate climate than that of the south.

As in the rest of Thailand there are three distinct seasons:

  • A cool season from Nov-Feb.
  • A hot season from Mar-Jun.
  • A wet season from Jul-Oct.

Get in

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Chiang Mai Airport

By plane

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1 Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX  IATA). Handles both domestic and regional international flights. Chiang Mai International Airport (Q1065082) on Wikidata Chiang Mai International Airport on Wikipedia

The route from Bangkok is one of the busiest in the country (Thai Airways flies daily almost every hour, with additional flights in the peak tourist season). Other airlines operating direct services to Chiang Mai include:

Domestic

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  • Thai Air Asia. A well-known Asian low-cost airline, has domestic flights from Bangkok (both airports), Pattaya, Phuket, Hat Yai, Krabi, Surat Thani, Khon Kaen. Used to be the cheapest option if you booked at least a week before, but now the strong competition of other carriers, as well as AirAsia's popularity among tourists, makes this true mostly only if you're lucky to catch a good promo. Promotional fares can be much less. Prices can be significantly higher if you book just a few days before, or want a specific day/flight.
  • Bangkok Airways. A full-service carrier positioning itself as "Asia's boutique airline" (for example, they provide a lounge to Economy passengers both in Chiang Mai and Bangkok), flies from Ko Samui & Bangkok (Suvarnabhumi). Surprisingly, Bangkok Airways can be cheaper than the budget airlines (but not to Ko Samui where they have a domestic monopoly), particularly if you book just a few days ahead. From 1,350 baht to Bangkok.
  • Nok Air. Thai low-cost carrier, flies from Bangkok's Don Mueang Airport eight or more times a day. Promo fares can be as low as 450 baht without checked bags. They also fly from Udon Thani three times a day, the price is in the same range, and while it's still somewhat more expensive than a (12-hour) bus trip, it's several times cheaper than the price of the Lao Airlines flight from Vientiane, which is easily accessible from Udon Thani. Other destinations: Mae Hong Son, Ubon Ratchathani.
  • Thai Lion Air. A subsidiary of the leading Indonesian low-cost carrier, Lion Air offers attractive fares from Bangkok (Don Mueang) with several flights a day and numerous onward destinations in Asia (especially in Indonesia, Malaysia and China) available from Bangkok. There's a flight from Pattaya as well.
  • Thai VietJet. Relatively new low-cost competitor from Vietnam, often has cheap fares in advance, and, unlike other low-cost carriers, flies from Bangkok Suvarnabhumi, not Don Mueang.

International

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  • Thai Airways - doesn't have direct international flights, but has many connections via Bangkok; if you arrive to/depart from Thailand on their flight, it's wise to check the through fare from Chiang Mai, as it often will cost just several hundred baht more (yet slightly more if stopping over in Bangkok for a few days or departing from another airport)

The airport is 3 km southwest of the city centre, 10–15 minutes away by car. Registered airport taxis charge a flat 150 baht for up to 5 passengers anywhere in the city. Uber charges the same flat fare if going from/to the airport. If you take a metered taxi, there is a starting fee plus a service fee from the Meter Taxi counter. The taxis operate from the exit at the north end of the terminal, after baggage claim and/or customs, walk into the reception hall and turn left. The airport has a shuttle minibus service available, offering drop-off to any hotel in the city for a flat fee of 40 baht (July 2015) - perfect if you're arriving alone and don't mind waiting 10-15 minutes for a few fellow passengers. The minibus counter is at the southern end of the terminal, near the International arrivals. Alternatively, take Bus 4 to the city centre, or charter a tuk-tuk or songthaew (if alone, negotiate with a songthaew driver who already has a few passengers). Most hotels and some upmarket guest houses offer cheap or free pick-up/drop-off services.

There are numerous ATMs and exchange offices of several banks in the main airport hall, which is very long and combines both international and domestic arrival and check-in booths on one floor - but you'll need to take an elevator to the second floor once you've checked in, and that's where you won't find neither exchanges nor ATMs. Their rate will not be as good as ones in town, e.g. Mr. Pierre Money Exchange on Tha Phae rd, while not walkable offers significantly better rates.

By bus

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Bus stations

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Chiang Mai has two official bus stations, consisting of four bus terminals:

Arcade bus station
  • 2 Arcade Bus Station (Terminals 2 and 3 plus the Nakhonchai Air Terminal) (สถานีขนส่งอาเขตเชียงใหม่) (at the far end of Kaeo Nawarat Rd just before it meets the superhighway), +66 53-242664. Buses from destinations outside Chiang Mai Province use this station. It has two official terminals, separated by a tuk-tuk stand and a road and tank trap-like obstacles. The private bus company Nakhonchai Air has a separate terminal behind Terminal 2.
The Arcade Bus "Station" is a mess, with no obvious order to the layout. There are ticket offices in both terminals. Further complicating the confusion, behind Terminal 2, Nakhonchai Air has a separate terminal. If you walk from the front to the rear of the Terminal 2 building, you will see a big "Nakhonchai Air" sign. Keep walking, and cross the parking lot to the rear, you will come upon it. The terminal is normally hidden from view by out-of-service buses.
Terminal 2 has a tourist police office, ATMs, food vendors, and many ticket sellers, including the booking office for BKS government buses. Buses depart from here for Bangkok, Phitsanulok, Udon. There seems to be no logic as to what buses go to which destination from which terminal and there is a good deal of overlap.
Terminal 3 is the larger and newer of the two. It has an air-conditioned waiting room with Internet cafe upstairs, small food vendors, ATMs, the booking window for Green Bus (Window 20), and numerous other ticket sellers. Buses for Bangkok, Phitsanulok, Ubon, Korat, Nan, Hua Hin, Luang Prabang, Mae Sot depart from here.
Chang Phuak bus station
  • 3 Chang Phuak Bus Station (Terminal 1) (off Chang Phuak Rd, on the north side of the moat, about 1 km north of Chang Phuak Gate), +66 53-211586. This station handles buses within Chiang Mai Province including Mae Rim, Chiang Dao, Fang, Tha Ton, Phrao, Hot, Chom Thong, Doi Tao, and Samoeng.

In effect, there is a fifth bus terminal if you count songthaews as buses. From the Warorot Market, songthaews depart for a variety of locations within a radius of about 50 km, such as Samoeng. The colour of the songthaew indicates its general route or usage. Most common are red songthaews (hence the alternative name of rot daeng, or "red car", which roam the main streets in the city. Warorot Market (west bank of the Ping River) is the most common terminus for songthaews that travel along fixed routes. From Warorot Market, white songthaews travel to the eastern suburban town of San Kampaeng, yellow songthaews travel to Mae Rim and Samoeng in the north, blue songthaews travel to Sarapee and Lamphun in the south, and green songthaews travel to Mae Jo to the northeast. The songthaews line up along the road that is parallel the Ping River, between it and the market. Destinations are posted on round, yellow signs but are only in Thai.

From Bangkok

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Feet up on the night bus from Bangkok

A variety of daily buses leave frequently from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit), offering varying choices of price, comfort and speed.

  • Rattling government buses make frequent stops at every minor township. The journey takes around 12 hr. Staff at Mo Chit station and elsewhere in Bangkok may deny these buses exist, or claim the price is the same as the 1st class buses.
  • Non-stop 24/32-seaters and 1st class buses such as Nakhonchai Air provide larger seats and snacks; making the long trip more comfortable. They manage the trip in around 9 hours and it costs around 488-550 baht. Be cautious about the so-called "VIP" buses touted on Khao San Rd. They may be cheaper, but you may end up crammed into a 2nd class bus or worse.

At Arcade Bus Station, where you'll arrive there is a public mini bus that runs from Arcadia bus station to the center of town (old town), it leaves from the road between the two arcadia terminal buildings and costs 15 baht. This will likely work out cheaper for tourists than the red songhaews and is less hassle; however staff staff will only direct you to the songthaews.

There are also songthaews that wait nearer Terminal 3, adjacent to the road that bisects the two terminals. Look for local people getting into them, and ask the driver if he goes to your destination (if the songthaew is empty, don't forget to confirm the price). You can take a shared trip to Tha Phae Gate (south edge of the old town), though you may have to wait for a driver who agrees. Virtually all songthaews will pass Warorot Market (city centre, just after crossing the river), from where it's just 1 km walk to Tha Phae Gate, or numerous (see "Get around" section) songthaews to other areas.

Drivers will approach you once you've arrived and will ask as much as 100-200 baht to the city centre/Tha Phae Gate, showing you a bogus price list with "fixed" prices. Bargain: it's just 5–6 km, so the fair price for tuk-tuk there is 50-60 baht, and is not more than 100-120 baht even to the opposite side of the city. It may be difficult to bargain with these drivers, however. A good idea is to ignore them from the start, walk out to the nearby street, and catch a passing tuk-tuk/songthaew there. If your luggage is light, you can walk to the centre, but it's quite a long (1 hour or more) walk, as the Arcade bus station is located in the city's northeast outskirts. Nowadays, you can also use Uber app for a cheap yet comfortable ride - a trip to the old city area will likely cost 45-70 baht, but be sure to pinpoint your location really well, so the driver could find you, as the bus station area is quite large.

From Hua Hin

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Buses depart the Hua Hin BKS Station at 08:00, 17:00, and 18:00 for Chiang Mai, 12.5 hr.

From Pattaya

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Buses depart the Nakhonchai Air Terminal in Pattaya (Sukhumvit Rd) for Chiang Mai several times during the day. Last bus about 21:00. Travel time is about 11 hr, with no stops longer than 5 min. Buses to Pattaya from Chiang Mai leave the Nakhonchai Air Terminal at Arcade Station daily on roughly the same schedule.

From Phuket

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There is one daily direct Green Bus service[dead link] from Chiang Mai's Arcade Terminal 3 to Phuket Terminal 2 and back. Cost is 1,646 baht (Dec 2017), tickets can be purchased online on their website. This trip is a killer: close to 24 hours on the bus! Although the bus is a state-of-the-art Sunlong vehicle and the seats are great (VIP24 bus: three business class-like seats in a row, with a video entertainment system - the movies are mostly in Thai however, with some limited English selection), this is simply too long time to be on a bus. If flying is not an option, definitely it's better to break your trip into two parts by stopping for at least one night in Bangkok (going from/to Chiang Mai by sleeper train preferably) or another city roughly in the middle, like Hua Hin.

From Udon Thani

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From Udon to Chiang Mai: Phetprasert Bus Company has three buses a day depart from in front of the Central Festival Shopping Mall. Depart Udon/arrive Chiang Mai times are: 17:45-05:25; 18:45-06:25; and 20:45-06:40. Fare is about 636 baht (Apr 2015). Buy your ticket at the Phetprasert ticket counter in the downtown bus station, a 5 min walk from Central Festival. There is an inconvenient out-of-town bus terminal that may have more buses to Chiang Mai.

From Chiang Mai to Udon: Phetprasert Buses leave Chiang Mai/arrive Udon at: 14:30-02:15; 17:30-05:15; and 19:30-05:30. Buses arrive at the Central Festival Shopping Mall, a convenient location 5 minutes from the downtown bus station. Fare is about 636 baht (Apr 2015). Buy your ticket at the Phetprasert ticket counter in Arcade Terminal 2. Buses depart from Arcade Terminal 3.

By train

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Chiang Mai railway station

Services from Bangkok leave on a regular daily schedule and take 12–15 hours to reach Chiang Mai. If you go by night train (recommended), take one that arrives late in the morning so you can observe some northern Thailand scenery: bridges and forests; villages and fields.

Daytime services leave at 08:30, and 14:30 with second-class and third-class carriages. The seats in each class differ in softness and width, and can become uncomfortable after 10+ hours. 3rd class costs 231 baht, 2nd class is 391 baht, and 2nd class with air conditioning costs 641 baht (April 2022).

Overnight sleepers provide comfortable bunks with clean sheets and pillows in first- and second-class. First-class beds are in private two-bed compartments. They cost 1253 or 1453 baht for a top bunk, and 1453 or 1653 baht for a bottom bunk (April 2022). In second-class, the carriages are open but each bunk has a curtain for privacy. The top bunks are slightly claustrophobic as they lack a window, but they are cheaper for this reason. Air conditioned 2nd class top bunks cost 771 or 941 baht, bottom bunks cost 841 or 1041 baht (April 2022), depending on the train. First-class always has air-con, second class sometimes has air-con, depending on the train. There are usually four trains per day with sleeper accommodation, though only two of these will have first-class compartments. Station staff will be able to help you.

Carriages are kept clean; the toilet and floors are regularly mopped during the journey. Vendors make regular rounds selling snacks, drinks, and lackluster meals at inflated prices. You are also free to hop off quickly at stations to make a purchase (or order through your window) or bring your own food and drink.

In second-class, the bunks are folded away leaving pairs of facing seats. At some point in the evening, or on request, they are flipped down into bunks and made up into beds. In first-class, the bottom bunk is used as a bench seat before having a futon mattress placed on top in the evening.

If you're not in the mood for bed when your carriage mates are bedding down, you can head off to the dining car, which provides fairly good food and drink at reasonable prices. Later in the night, the dining car can be converted into a disco, complete with loud music and flashing lights.

Tickets can be bought up to 60 days in advance at any station in Thailand. Booking in advance is advised, especially for the popular 2nd-class overnight sleepers. Larger stations accept payment with Visa and MasterCard. This is fairly safe, as SRT is a state-owned company. If you are not yet in Thailand, the SRT D-Ticketing website will let you buy and print an e-ticket. Some find it tricky to register. You have to avoid any special characters while filling the registration form. You must book at least three days in advance, and you can only purchase 1st and 2nd class air-con sleeper tickets which are more expensive than fan-only car tickets. The price on-line is the same as at the ticket office. There is also an official SRT D-Ticket app on the Apple App Store and the Google Play Store. Various travel agencies, some available to contact from outside Thailand, can also procure tickets for delivery or pick up. 12go is a poopular choice for this.

You can transport a bicycle between Bangkok and Chiang Mai on the train for an extra fee. It will go in the cargo area.

4 Chiang Mai train station (about 3 km east of the city centre). Chiang Mai Railway Station (Q1884773) on Wikidata Chiang Mai railway station on Wikipedia Many songthaews and tuk-tuks await each train's arrival. If you want to walk, exit the station, cross the open square in front and turn left on the first major road you come to (Charoen Muang Rd); this road goes directly to city centre.

Get around

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Map
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Map of Chiang Mai

By bus

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Chiang Mai finally has a limited bus service, not without the opposition of the songhthaew (see below) and tuk tuk drivers. The buses are air-conditioned and follow one of a few routes; see CM Transit application for real time tracking, or this guide, to plan your trip. There are just a few routes so far, but they quite fit the average traveler's needs, including from/to the airport. The ticket is 20 baht, pay in cash to the driver or else Rabbit card from Bangkok is also accepted. For those wishing to travel really hard, there's a Tourist card - 180 baht per day or 400 baht per 3 days unlimited trips.

By songthaew

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A songthaew serves as a bus or a taxi.

The traditional way of getting around the city is by songthaew (สองแถว) which serve as buses and taxis. These covered pick-up trucks have two long bench seats in the back (songthaew means "two rows" in Thai), the seats are shared by multiple passengers and the songthaews stop en route to pick up other passengers who are going the same way.

The colour of the songthaew indicates its general route or usage. Most common by far are red songthaews (called rot daeng, red truck), which don't follow a specific route and roam the main streets around markets, temples, or the bus/train stations. These are the most convenient to take if you are going somewhere specific. Prices are fixed to 30 baht inside the city walls but the price must be negotiated outside the city walls, but expect to pay upwards of 40 baht outside. During peak season these prices can increase to 40 baht within the city walls and up to 200 baht outside - again, that's how much a tourist would pay. Because of the city's somewhat irrational road design, especially inside the old walls, the driver may be forced to take a circuitous route to get to a nearby destination, but it will make no difference to the fare.

Since mid 2017 songthaews have a sign stating "30 baht pp" above the windows of the car. However this is not a translation of the entire Thai text. It turns out to be the maximum, when reading the entire line. A second line, that is below the windows, gives the area for this tariffs: within the 2nd ringroad. Keep this in mind when you have to negotiate.

Text above the windows
อัตราค่าโดยสารไม่เกิน30บาท/คน
atrakha doisanmai koen30bat/khon
classifierthe fee paid for transportationnot more than30baht/person
Text below the windows
รถโดยสารไม่ประจำทางภายในเขาวงแหวนรอบ2เชียงใหม่
rot doisanmaipracham thangphai naikhaowong waenrop2chiangmai
passenger busnotdriven on a fixed routewithinthemring roadaround2Chiang Mai

To catch a songthaew approach a waiting driver or flag one down on the street, state your destination and if the driver is going that direction he will nod in agreement and give you a price. Negotiate a lower fare if you wish. The price agreed to should be per person. It's a good idea to confirm this with the driver before you leave. On reaching your destination, ring the buzzer on the roof to tell the driver to stop. The driver will pull over, wait for you to get out and pay.

Songthaews not orbiting on a fixed-route can be hired outright, just as if they were a taxi. Negotiate a price before departure.

Fixed-route songthaews

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  • 5 White Songthaew to Sankampaeng.
  • 6 White Songthaew to Mae Taeng.
  • 7 Yellow Songthaew to Doi Saket.
  • 8 Yellow Songthaew to Hang Dong & San Patong.
  • 9 Blue Songthaew to Sarapee & Lamphun.
  • 10 Green Songthaew to Mae Jo.
  • 11 Orange Songthaew to Fang.

Fare is dependent on distance.

By tuk-tuk or samlor

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Tuk-tuks are a quick, though noisy way to get around. Good luck if you can bargain for anything less than 100 baht even for a few kilometers, as they would rather wait for another clueless tourist more likely. Many expatriates and long-term tourists tend to ignore tuk-tuks completely unless absolutely necessary, and use alternate modes of transportation like a motorbike or Grab ride-hailing app. Even Thai people are complaining about tuk-tuks asking them more than double than they used to pay several years ago. Tuk-tuks at the bus/train station will ask even more like 200 baht if not more, and may refuse to bargain - just walk away to the nearest road and stop a songthaew (note that some of them will also quote a "taxi" price when they see a foreigner) there, or, better, install a Grab app and go by an air-conditioned car for a fraction of the tuk-tuk price. A good rule of thumb is that unfair drivers will seek you out, but you have to seek out the drivers who will give you a fair price.

A few samlors (three-wheeled bicycles) still cruise the streets and will happily take you to a temple for the same price as a tuk-tuk, though at a considerably quieter and slower pace.

By e-hailing

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Grab is usually (except the periods of exceptionally high demand like during Songkran, New Year, etc.) cheaper than a tuk-tuk even after haggling, with the added benefit of cashless payment and the comfort of a private car. For the airport rides they charge a significant premium (such as 180 baht compared to 70 baht to the nearby Central Airport Plaza), but most rides within the city (including the train and bus stations) will cost around 60-80 baht for a few kilometers.

You can also call a motorbike (look for Grab Win service) or a regular metered taxi using the Grab app (look for a GrabTaxi service). GrabTaxi will give you a fare estimate to compare with their main GrabCar service (where you will pay exactly what you see on the screen). At the end of a GrabTaxi trip, you'll pay what the meter shows plus a booking fee (30 baht), either in cash or debited from your credit card by the Grab service.

There are also alternatives to Grab, for example, Bolt which is usually about 10%-20% cheaper.

By taxi

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Chiang Mai has metered taxis, although not as many as tuk-tuks and songthaews. The "flag fall" is for the first 2 km, then per kilometre after that. Journeys longer than 12 km can be negotiated. This fare structure applies to all metered taxis in Chiang Mai Province.

You cannot generally hail taxis in the street. To book a taxi, call +66 53–279291, state your destination and the call centre will give you a quote. Or contact individual drivers via the mobile phone numbers displayed on their vehicles.

Taxi drivers do not speak English or read Latin script, so therefore knowing your address in Thai or having your hotel receptionist writing your destination in Thai would be helpful.

By motorbike or motorcycle

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A motorbike is a convenient and cheap way to get around the city or reach the outlying sights. There is an abundance of near indistinguishable rental companies in the city, though most guesthouses can arrange rentals as well. 100 cc and 125 cc machines with automatic transmissions capable of carrying two people are the easiest to jump on and ride away if you don't have driving experience. A scooter or moped, such as the Honda Click, is the most convenient as it can carry bags on the floorboard and smaller items underneath the seat. Off-road bikes and larger street bikes are also an option. An international driver's licence is legally required, but the rental shops don't ask to see it, not even your national driver's permit.

You get the required helmets and an anti-theft chain (not for scooters). Larger machines cost more for a V-twin or larger sport-bike. Expect discounts when renting for a week, month or longer.

Renting will require a deposit, and while many companies ask for a passport, you should under no circumstances leave your passport with anyone as collateral. However, most shops will accept a photocopy with a cash deposit. While the petrol/gas tank may be full on pickup, it is not uncommon for shops to deliver a bike with just enough fuel to go make it to a service station. They may siphon the remainder off when you return it so the next person is forced to do the same. In any case, return the bike with as much or more fuel than received to avoid any penalties. Also check the mechanical condition of the bike offered. Focus especially on the brakes: the degree of "pull" needed for the brake levers and the travel required by the foot brake. Check that turn indicators and headlights work properly, and that the tyres are reasonably OK. Make photos of the bike as documentation of pre-existing damages.

Some rental agreements claim to insure you, but generally only cover the bike for theft or damage. Don't expect much compensation in the event of an accident. And irrespective of who is at fault, assume that you will be the one blamed.

Chiang Mai traffic police are fond of setting up checkpoints to stop motorcyclists. These invariably happen during business hours. If you or your passenger are without a helmet, you will be stopped. If you do have a helmet, you may be stopped anyway, to check your licence and registration. If you are fined, this is a smooth process which typically takes less than 5 minutes: e.g., if you present a foreign driver's license, you fined only 500 baht. You can pay on the spot and continue driving afterwards. If you are stopped again, showing the receipt may exempt you from being fined again.

The regular checkpoints change from time to time. The second half of 2019 they are:

  • 10 Checkpoint Arak Rd. (250 m south from the NW corner of the old city).
  • 11 Checkpoint Kotchasarn Rd. (50 m south from Loi Kroh Rd.).
  • 12 Checkpoint Huay Kaew Rd. (450 m west from the super highway junction). Usually direction Doi Suthep, but sometimes both directions.

Rental companies

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  • CityGlide. Fully bookable online and they deliver to you.

By bicycle

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Traffic inside the old city walls is subdued enough to make biking a safe and quick way to get around. Bike rentals are plentiful; rental costs depending on the bike quality.

By car

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Car hire services are available at the airport and throughout the city. Cars typically offered include the Toyota Vios, Altis, and Yaris, and the Honda City and Jazz. Expect a slight discount when renting weekly. Many places offer minivans such as 10-seat Toyota Commuters with a driver. Older Suzuki Caribbean 4WDs are a cheaper option, but they are relatively difficult to drive and less mechanically reliable than a standard passenger car.

All the multi-national rental companies are present in Chiang Mai. One local car rental company is:

Hiring a car or minivan with driver is a great option for travelling to places outside the city, and the price is often similar to hiring a car and driving yourself. You'll also be able to relax and enjoy the scenery in air-conditioned comfort. When booked a car with a driver, he or she will typically pick you up with a full tank of fuel and you pay at the end. Most hotels and some guesthouses can arrange it for you, in addition to vehicle rental outlets, and the many travel agencies in the city.

On foot

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The old city moat is only about 1.6 km on a side, and as such is easy to walk around. The airport is also quite close to the old part of the city, about 2.5 km, so if you have the energy and an hour to spare, you can even walk to and from the airport. This is not necessarily a pleasant experience as the sidewalks are uneven (or non-existent) and Chiang Mai gets hot during the day, especially during the hot season, and rainy during the rainy season. The cost of a taxi or songthaew from the moat area to the airport is around 150 baht.

See

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Gardens and nature

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  • 1 Chiang Mai Foreign Cemetery, Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd (about 800 m north of the Holiday Inn, east side of the Ping River). A place of history and remembrance. A statue of Queen Victoria is overlooking the place. Chiang Mai Foreign Cemetery (Q106572340) on Wikidata
  • 2 Chiang Mai Zoo & Aquarium, 100 Huay Kaew Rd (at the foot of Doi Suthep), +66 53-893111. Daily, 09:00-17:00. A large park with over 400 species of animals, extremely popular with Thai tourists, and long queues may be encountered during Thai holidays. While better than some zoos, many animals are nevertheless kept in small enclosures. The zoo operates a dual pricing system wherein non-Thais are charged approximately double the price of Thai nationals. Additional charges are applied for both the panda exhibition and the aquarium. Many of the animals can be fed for a charge of 10 or 20 baht. The park is pretty large, and expect plenty of hills if you want to walk the complete route, so taking the "tram," which is an open-air cart, is a faster and more convenient way to get around, though the last tram starts at 16:30. It's possible to drive through with your car, and there are parking spots next to the animal exhibits. If you have a rental scooter or bike, definitely bring it though. The zoo closes at 17:00, but many visitors wander to the exit gate well past closing time. 150 baht for adults; 70 baht for children. Chiang Mai Zoo (Q3034913) on Wikidata Chiang Mai Zoo on Wikipedia
Picknick huts on the water at the Huai Tueng Thao Reservoir
  • 3 Huai Tueng Thao Reservoir (in Mae Rim, 12.5 km from the center of Chiang Mai). Big figures made of rice stalks and picknick huts on the water. Very popular with locals. 50 baht entrance fee. Huai Tueng Thao Reservoir (Q20760357) on Wikidata
  • 4 Mae Sa Waterfall (go 17 km north to Mae Rim on Rte 107. Turn onto Rte 1096 to Samoeng. Travel ~7 km to waterfall on left), +66 53-210244. 08:30-16:30. Set in the Doi Suthep-Pui National Park on the Samoeng Loop. The path winds up for almost 2 km to the 8 tiers of cascades. There are many secluded areas off the trail for picnics. Crowded on weekends and holidays. Foreigners, 100 baht; Thais, 20 baht.
  • 5 Phu Ping Palace (Royal Winter Palace), Suthep (on Rte 1004, beyond Doi Suthep). Daily, 08:30-11:30 & 13:00-15:00 when the Thai royal family is not in residence. This royal winter palace has lavishly landscaped gardens and is open to the public. Dress code strictly applied: dress modestly or pay 15 baht for fisherman's pants to cover your lack of it. This includes ANY leg above the ankle for either gender. The palace itself (built in 1961) is not particularly exciting, but the extensive gardens are picturesque with some amazing plant life, including carefully tended tropical flowers, centuries-old trees and giant bamboo. A sign at the bottom of the hill near the zoo indicates when it's closed. It is close to Wat Prathat Doi Suthep, so travel directions are similar. 50 baht, children 10 baht. Bhubing Palace (Q4902096) on Wikidata Bhubing Palace on Wikipedia
  • 6 Queen Sirikit Botanic Garden, 100 Moo 9, Mae Ram (go 17 km N to Mae Rim on Rte 107. Turn onto Rte 1096 to Samoeng; travel 12 km to garden on left), +66 53-841234. Daily 08:30-16:30. Thailand's oldest and foremost botanical garden. Dedicated to the conservation of Thai flora, it holds collections of, and carries out research on rare and endangered species. Lovely gardens in a mountain foothills setting. Run by the Botanical Garden Association of Thailand. Adult 150 baht; child 100 baht; car 100 baht. Queen Sirikit Botanic Garden (Q3162422) on Wikidata Queen Sirikit Botanic Garden on Wikipedia
  • 7 Nature Trail to Doi Pui peak (beyond Phu Ping Palace). A loop trail (2.4 km) leads from the Doi Pui Campsite to Doi Pui peak (uphill!) and back. From the peak you can continue to a View Point (680 m). The whole trail is in the forest and you're above 1500 m, so it's much cooler than in the city during the hot season. Bring insect repellent. To get there, rent a motorbike (or find a songthaew that takes you there) and drive all the way to Phu Ping Palace, continue on the main road, turn right after about 1 km (turning left will bring you to a mountain village) and continue on a narrow windy road for almost 4 km until you reach the Pui Campsite. Alternatively, walk all the way from Phu Ping Palace, there's not much traffic. A sign marks the start of the trail.

Museums

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  • 8 Chiang Mai Historical Centre (หอประวัติศาสตร์เมืองเชียงใหม่), Prapokklao Rd (between Ratchadamnoen Rd and Ratchawithi Rd), +66 53-217793. Tu-Su 08:3017:00. This modern multimedia history and cultural education centre has guides dressed in elegant traditional Thai clothing who will usher you into an air-conditioned room to watch an English-subtitled orientation video about Chiang Mai and the north. Next, you will be pointed to a series of rooms documenting the region's history and culture in chronological order from the pre-Muang period (7,000-12,000 years ago) to the early river civilizations, to the early kings through the wars with the Burmese and the last dynasty, to the city today and its plans for the future. Other rooms are devoted to Buddhism and other regional beliefs, agricultural history, hill tribe peoples and other regional cultures, and a run-down of the royal dynasties. The exhibits consist of a smart visual mix of video, scale models, enlarged photos, wall murals and text in Thai and English. This complex also shared with the Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Centre 90 baht.
  • 9 Chiang Mai National Museum, on the superhighway (near Wat Chet Yot), +66 53-221308. W-Su 09:0016:00. The history of Chiang Mai. 100 baht. Chiang Mai National Museum (Q1642767) on Wikidata Chiang Mai National Museum on Wikipedia
  • 10 Chiang Mai University Art Museum, corner Suthep and Nimmanhaemin Rd, +66 53-944833. Tu-Su 09:0017:00. There are exhibitions by undergraduates from the Fine Arts Department at Chiang Mai University. These change often and the work on display is of high quality. Each month there is usually at least one art exhibition featuring the works of artists from Southeast Asia. The museum also hosts musical concerts, often free, in the adjoining theatre. Free.
  • 11 Museum of World Insects and Natural Wonders, Soi 13, Nimmanhaemin Rd, +66 53-211891. Daily 09:0017:00. One of Asia's most unusual museums housing butterflies, beetles, etc. Also has a large selection of minerals. Some explanations in English, some in Thai. 200 baht.
  • 12 Postal Museum, Mae Ping Post Office. Tu-Sa 08:3016:30. Free.
  • 13 The Highland People Discovery Museum (Former name: Tribal Museum) (behind the Rama IX Lanna Park at the road to Mae Rim). M-F 08:30-12:00 and 13:00-16:00. The museum is located on a little peninsula in a big pond. There is also an open air part to the museum at 300 m from the main building, where you find houses in the styles of the tribes. Tribal Museum (Q7840310) on Wikidata Tribal Museum on Wikipedia
  • 14 Lanna Traditional House Museum (CMULHM), 239 ถ. ห้วยแก้ว Suthep, +66 53943625. Tu-Su 08:30-16:30. traditional wooden houses of the northern Thai region and Lanna culture. 100 baht.
  • 15 The Treasury Museum Chiang Mai (พิพิธภัณฑ์ธนารักษ์ จังหวัดเชียงใหม่), 52 Rachadamnoen Rd, Tambon Si Phum, +66 53224237. Tu-f 09:00-12:00, 13:00-16:00; Sa Su 10:00-12:00, 13:00-18:00. One of two money museums in Thailand, focused on northern Thailand, run by government treasury department, in a heritage builging, small, plan 1 hr to see, need to take off shoes. Free.
  • 16 Princess Sirindhorn AstroPark (NARIT (National Astronomical Research Institute of Thailand) headquarters), 260 Moo 4, Tambon Donkaew, Amphoe Mae Rim. Tu-F 09:00-100, Sa Su holidays 10:00-17:00, closed M. The planetarium includes a digital FullDome DX4 system with a 17-meter-diameter screen for 160 seats. Showtime: Tu-F Su holidays 11:00 and 14:00; Sa 11:00, 14:00, 17:00. The astronomy movie is in Thai without English subtitles except that the movie shown F at 11:00 is in English. Besides the movie, it has astronomy exhibitions and a scientific learning environment (simple games and toys to demonstrate scientific and technological concepts, mostly oriented to kids). There is also a public observatory for stargazing on Saturday nights (18:00-22:00 from November to May. Also, the mountain view at the outdoor area of the third floor of the planetarium is beautiful. There is a restaurant called The Planets on the second floor of the planetarium, but if you want to eat something fast and cheap, there is a food cart providing simple street foods (noodles, grilled skewers, etc) near the foot of the planetarium, opposite to NARIT headquarters. free (50 baht for movie).
  • 17 Kalm Village, +66 933209809. Community culture space that often hosts workshops like mini loom weaving or meditation. Free.

Temples

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Inside the old city walls

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  • 18 Wat Chedi Luang (วัดเจดีย์หลวงวรวิหาร), Prapokklao Rd (foreigners have to use a separate entrance, left of the main entrance). Almost in the centre of Chiang Mai are the remains of a massive chedi that toppled in the great earthquake of 1545. The temple was originally constructed in 1401 on the orders of King Saeng Muang Ma. In 1454, reigning King Tilo-Garaj enlarged the chedi (pronounced jedee) to a height of 86 m. After the earthquake, the chedi lay in ruins until 1991-92, when it was reconstructed at a cost of several million baht. A magnificent testament to Lanna (northern Thai) architecture and art, restored sections hint at its former glory. Wat Chedi Luang is also home to the "Pillar of the City", a totem used in ancient Thai fertility rites. Thais free; foreigners 50 baht. Wat Chedi Luang (Q1454288) on Wikidata Wat Chedi Luang on Wikipedia
  • 19 Wat Chiang Man (วัดเชียงมัน), Ratchaphakhinai Rd. The oldest temple in the city. Presumed to date from the year Chiang Mai was founded (1296), it is famed for two Buddha statues, which are about 1,800 and 1,000 years old, respectively. King Mengrai allegedly lived here while the city of Chiang Mai was being constructed. Enshrined in Wat Chiang Man is a tiny crystal Buddha called Pra Seh-Taang Kamaneeee, which is thought to have the power to bring rain. Another image, called Phra Sila Khoa, reflects the fine workmanship of Indian craftsmen from thousands of years ago. Wat Chiang Man (Q1515582) on Wikidata Wat Chiang Man on Wikipedia
  • 20 Wat Phra Chao Mengrai (วัดพระเจ้าเม็งราย. Sometimes called Wat Phra Jao Mengrai), Ratchamanka Soi 6, Phra Sing (near Huen Phen Restaurant), +66 53-278788. An atmospheric temple with two wihan buildings, off the beaten track, quiet and gently crumbling. One of the wihan buildings houses an important Buddha image: Phra Buddha Rupa Phra Chao Mengrai. Wat Phra Chao Mengrai (Q110820898) on Wikidata
  • 21 Wat Phra Singh (วัดพระสิงห์วรมาวิหาร) (corner of Singharaj Rd and Ratchadamnoen Rd). Probably Chiang Mai's best-known temple, housing the Phra Singh image, completed between 1385 and 1400. Of most historical interest is the Wihan Lai Kham in the back, featuring Lanna-style temple murals and intricate gold patterns on red lacquer behind the altar. The large chedi was built in 1345 by King Pha Yu to house the remains of his father King Kam Fu. A typical scripture repository is located at this temple as well. These repositories were designed to keep and protect the delicate sa or mulberry paper sheets used by monks and scribes to keep records and write down folklore. The high stucco-covered stone base of the repository protected the delicate scriptures from rain, floods, and pests. The walls of the chapel are covered with murals illustrating Lanna customs, dress and scenes from daily life. The lovely Lai Kam chapel houses the revered Phra Singh Buddha image. The head was stolen in 1922, and a reproduction is now seen. Your admission ticket is in a leaflet form containing useful information and map of Wat Phra Singh complex. The temple is most attractive during Songkran, the Thai New Year, in mid-April. Wat Phra Sing (Q1657130) on Wikidata Wat Phra Singh on Wikipedia

Outside the old city walls

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  • 22 Wat Chet Yot (วัดเจ็ดยอด. Also called Wat Jet Yot or Wat Jed Yod) (about 1 km N of the Huay Kaew Rd/superhighway intersection). The history and unusual architecture scattered under the yawning canopy of ancient trees is a pleasant antidote to the flash and bustle encountered at popular temples. Established in 1455 to host the eighth World Buddhist Council, many features of the grounds imitate significant places of the Buddha's enlightenment. Originally called Botharam Maha Vihata in honour of the venerated Bodhi tree, it came to be known as Wat Jet Yod by locals, after the seven spires (Jet Yod) protruding from the roof of the Vihara. The square-sided design of the Virhra is a replica of Mahabodhi temple in Bodh Gaya, India, though the translation has distorted proportions somewhat. Remnants of the graceful stucco relief murals that adorned the walls depict angels with a distinctly Indian flavour. The grounds also hold some more recently built, but abandoned looking, eroded chedis and buckling bases of vanished halls, overshadowed by a fully intact, though more diminutive, replica of Chedi Luang that was built around 1487 to house the ashes of King Tilokarat. Wat Chet Yot (Q2552284) on Wikidata Wat Chet Yot on Wikipedia
Courtyard, Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep
Bells at Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep
The big pond in garden of the Bhubing Palace
  • 23 Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep (วัดพระธาตุดอยสุเทพ) (18 km from the city, at a 1,073 m elevation on the slopes of Doi (Mount) Suthep). 07:00-17:00. The quintessential image of Chiang Mai with its large gilded chedi, visible from the city on a clear day. Built in 1383 during the Lanna Thai period, legend has it that the temples site was selected by an elephant sent to roam the mountain side, where upon reaching a suitable spot, it trumpeted, circled three times, knelt down and promptly died, which was interpreted as a sign indicating an auspicious site. The temple offers grand views over the city, but no reward is without effort as you must accent the 200-plus steep steps of the Naga-lined stairs. The climb may be a strain in the high altitude's thin air for the less fit, so you may opt to take the cable car for 20 baht. For the Visaka Bucha holiday around May each year, it is traditional for people to walk from the zoo to the temple and vast numbers make the pilgrimage to the top, which takes around 4–5 hours. Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep (Q1517698) on Wikidata Wat Phra That Doi Suthep on Wikipedia
    • In the vicinity there are several other attractions you may want to consider visiting. The24 Bhubing Royal Palace Gardens. are 4 km further along the road from Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, with a reasonably easy walk along the meter-wide road shoulder. Or you can get a shared songthaew from Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep for 30 baht, but you may have to wait until it fills up. Further along the road is a hill tribe village, and although tourist-oriented, is really worth the trip. There are many shops for local handicrafts, etc. These are the people from the far north of the country, many originally from Myanmar. There are two areas in the village that require entrance fee: 10 baht to enter a flower garden (where women can take pictures using traditional clothes) and a hill tribe opium museum (the museum is in a very poor condition); and 10 baht to enter the hill tribe waterfall (man-made).
      Market in the hill tribe village
    • Getting there is a source of much consternation to many travelers. Clearly marked songthaews leave from Pratu Chang Phuak, next to the 7-Eleven. Prices are listed as 60 baht up and 60 baht down. The drivers wait until they have sufficient (Minimum of 10) passengers before they depart, potentially making for a lengthy wait. The driver may offer to leave without the minimum number of people if the current passengers are willing to pay a bit extra. Most guidebooks advise taking a songthaew from Mani Nopharat Rd, resulting in the drivers milking the tourist cash-cow and raising their price from a reasonable 60 baht to a ludicrous 500 baht.
    • Another option is to take a songthaew from your hotel to the northern gate of Chiang Mai University for 20 baht (if you are close to the city walls), where there will be several songthaews waiting on Huai Kaew Rd to get a full load of passengers for a trip up the mountain. They seem to congregate around the Chiang Mai Zoo, so if you just say "zoo" to the driver he will know what you're talking about. Prices range from 40 baht for a one-way trip to Wat Prathat to 180 baht for a full round-trip tour, including the temple, Bhubing Palace Gardens, and the hill tribe village, with an hour at each location, but you may have to wait until there are sufficient people who want the same tour or be prepared to pay more. You can also get between many of these by buying point-to-point tickets at the time you want them, or walking some segment. Any songthaew up the mountain road may be a trial for those prone to motion-sickness, so take appropriate precautions. Also, there may be several little annoying additional costs foreigners. To enter the Doi Suthep is free for Thais, and 30 baht for foreigners. Tour operators will ask 700 baht for a tour.
    • The journey from the city can be made by motorcycle or a bicycle (with appropriate gearing). The final 12 km from the zoo onwards is entirely uphill and will take 60-90 minutes if bicycling.
  • 25 Wat Si Suphan (Silver temple). The Ubosot building of the temple is completely covered with a layer of silver, particularly impressive when illuminated in the evening. Decorated with detailed ornaments. Sometimes silversmiths on site are adding or renewing the decoration. Conversations with monks and an introduction to meditation are also offered in the temple. Women are not allowed to enter the interior of the Ubosot building. Wat Si Suphan (Q59641379) on Wikidata Wat Sri Suphan on Wikipedia
  • 26 Wat Suan Dok, Suthep Rd. A large open-sided hall with a jumble of roughly hewn Buddhas with a huge dazzlingly whitewashed chedi behind. Wat Suan Dok (Q2552404) on Wikidata Wat Suan Dok on Wikipedia
  • 27 Wat Ton Kwen (close to the corner of Canal Road (road 121) and road 1269 to Samoeng.). Very nice temple with unusual architectural elements. Road 1269 is also part of the Samoeng Loop route. Wat Ton Kwen (Q73152458) on Wikidata Wat Ton Kwen on Wikipedia
  • 28 Wat Umong (วัดอุโมงค์), Off Suthep Rd (at the end of a long narrow road, off Suthep Rd; turn at the Italian restaurant), +66 53-277248 (call only from 08:30-16:00), . 08:30-16:00. The name means "tunnel temple". An ancient temple in the forest just outside Chiang Mai. King Mengrai built this temple for a highly respected forest monk who liked to wander in the countryside, hence the isolated location where the monk could stay quietly and meditate. It is unusual in that it has tunnel-like chambers in the ground, some of the walls of which still have the original paintings of birds and animals visible. The large stupa is magnificent, and there is an eerie statue of a fasting, emaciated Buddha next to it. You can also take a break by the ponds, where you can feed the fish and turtles. Has a meditation centre open to foreigners. Some monks and the abbot speak a little English. Wat Umong Suan Phutthatham (Q1369391) on Wikidata Wat Umong on Wikipedia
  • 29 Wiang Kum Kam (เวียงกุมกาม), Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd, Saraphi district (the marker on the map shows the best entrypoint to the area on the Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd). This ancient city was built in the 13th century CE by King Meng Rai to be the first capital city of Lanna. But it flooded every year so he decided to move his capital to Nopburi-Srinakornping Chiang Mai. Wiang Kum Kam was flooded and did not show up again because of the path of Ping River changed. In 1984, one of the temples was found by the Department of Fine Arts, and exploration of the other temples began. Now there are multiple brick ruins of ancient temples. Tour around Wiang Kum Kam with a guide are available from tourist agencies for 300 baht. You can get there by carriage for 200 baht, or rent a bicycle to ride along the road and follow the signs. Notice that entering the area via the Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd is very nice because of the very tall trees that line this road. Wiang Kum Kam (Q1537210) on Wikidata Wiang Kum Kam on Wikipedia
  • 30 Wat Chedi Liam (วัดเจดีย์เหลี่ยม). Formerly known as Wat Ku Kham (Thai: วัดกู่คำ), this temple was renovated in 1908 by a Burmese trader. Therefore, many decorations are in Burmese style. The chedi was also renovated in 1992. Wat Chedi Liam (Q6630520) on Wikidata Wat Chedi Liam on Wikipedia

Do

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Map
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Region around Chiang Mai

Cinema

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  • 1 Alliance Francaise, 138 Charoen Prathet Rd, +66 53-275277. W nights, 19:30. Screens French films, but frequently sub-titled in English. See the website for calendar of showings. The alliance also has an extensive library and exhibitions.
  • 2 Major Cineplex, Airport Plaza. Ticket prices depend on the duration of the film and seat type. Honeymoon seats generally cost 40 baht more than standard seats. If you would like to avoid the crowd, avoid going on Thursday, Friday or Saturday nights. Make sure to check the language of the film prior to booking. Some children's movies are dubbed into Thai. 400 baht.
  • 3 SFX Cinema (corner Huay Kaew Rd and Superhighway).

Festivals & exhibitions

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  • 4 Bo Sang Umbrella & Sankampang Handicrafts Festival (8 km SE of Chiang Mai). Takes place around the third weekend of Jan at Ban Bo Sang, Sankampang. The festival is in the form of a "street fair" in which the central road of the village is used, with shops on both sides. Shops are decorated in Lanna-style, most with the well-known umbrellas, as well as with traditional lanterns. In addition there are contests, exhibitions, cultural performances, local entertainment, and assorted shows day and night. There is a grand procession decorated with umbrellas and local products, a variety of handicrafts for sale, northern-style khantoke meals and the Miss Bo Sang pageant.
Flower Festival Parade
  • Chiang Mai Flower Festival. Staged every year during the first weekend in February. The city is awash with vibrant colours ranging from the electric orange and lilac colours of the bougainvillea to the velvety blossoms of petunias in all shades of pink, white, and purple. The strident red of the poinsettias, bought by many at Christmas and New Year, is echoed by beds of scarlet salvias. Homes and shop owners alike line the city streets with colourful flower boxes. The sheer profusion of colour that the flower festival and carnival brings to Chiang Mai aptly gives the city its name "Rose of the North". On all three days of the festival, prize blooms are on display at Nong Buak Had Park near the city centre. Many types of flower, miniature trees and orchida are put on display for the judges to choose the best of the species. Landscape specialists put on an elaborate display, which includes patios and waterfalls with exotic decorative plants and flowers. The best part of the flower festival is on Saturday. The parade lines up from the train station to Nawarat Bridge so the police close most of Charoen Muang Rd around 08:00. The VIP viewing stand is right next to the bridge in front of the Chiang Mai Governor's home. The parade route goes up Tha Phae Rd to the gate and turns left and follows the moat to Nong Buak Had Park. The parade moves at a slow pace and stops several times so there is plenty of time to take pictures of the colourful floats, pretty girls and hill tribe people in native costume. The paraders hand out roses to spectators lining the road. When the parade finishes everyone heads to Nong Buak Had where all the floats, award-winning flower growers and landscape projects are all on display. There are plenty of food stalls in the park, and in the late afternoon the Miss Chiang Mai Flower Festival starts. The party goes well into the evening until the new Flower Festival Queen has been chosen. This is a great time to visit Chiang Mai, as the air is cool and the evenings fresh and clear. If you want to see the festival make sure you book your hotels and flights well in advance.
  • Inthakin or Tham Boon Khan Dok. City Pillar Festival in Chiang Mai. This is a six-day festival where the city pillar spirits are propitiated to ensure the continuity of the city. Occurs in May or Jun as part of the Northern Thailand lunar calendar. Very large event focused around Wat Chedi Luang.
Loi Krathong parade
  • Loi Krathong and Yi Peng Festivals (ลอยกระทง). If you like candles placed in colourful paper lanterns, fireworks, beautiful girls in traditional dress, parade floats, lots of food and parties. Don't miss the Loi Krathong festival, which in Chiang Mai lasts for 3 full days, the last night being that of the 12th full moon of the year (which is usually in Nov). In the small town of Mae Jo, north of Chiang Mai, they start the festival on Saturday night by simultaneously launching thousands upon thousands of hot air balloons called khom loi. Loi Krathong coincides with the northern Thai (Lanna) festival known as "Yi Peng" (ยี่เป็ง). Due to a difference between the old Lanna calendar and the Thai calendar, Yi Peng is held on a full moon of the 2nd month of the Lanna calendar ("Yi" meaning "2nd" and "Peng" meaning "month" in the Lanna language). A multitude of Lanna-style sky lanterns (khom loi (โคมลอย), literally: "floating lanterns") are launched into the air where they drift with the winds. The festival is meant as a time for "tam-bun" (ทำบุญ), to make merit. People decorate their houses, gardens, and temples with khom fai (โคมไฟ): intricately shaped paper lanterns which take on different forms. Khom thue (โคมถือ) are lanterns which are carried around hanging from a stick, khom khwaen (โคมแขวน) are the hanging lanterns, and khom pariwat (โคมปริวรรต) which are placed at temples and which revolve due to the heat of the candle inside. Chiang Mai has the most elaborate Yi Peng celebrations, where both Loi Krathong and Yi Peng are celebrated at the same time resulting in lights floating on the waters, lights hanging from trees/buildings or standing on walls, and lights floating by in the sky.
Khom Loy hot air balloon launch
  • 5 Mae Jo Lantern Release. A huge lantern release (It is often referred to as the 10,000 lantern release, but there are not as many as that) happens near Mae Jo University on the Saturday before Loi Krathong, in 2013: 16 Nov. The DMC Buddhist Sect puts this on and though it is billed as "for local people" this event has no connection with Chiang Mai or Lanna events, and is not promoted by local government officials nor included in their program. The lantern release takes place at the end of a ceremony that begins at 18:30, with the release at 20:00. The event is free of charge, but respectful attire is required and alcohol is forbidden. A tourist-targeted event (which costs about 3,000 baht) occurs in the same location on the following weekend.
  • 6 Princess Dara Rasmi Remembrance Day (around the Daraphirom Palace). Yearly on 9 December. Princess Dara Rasmi was a consort of king Chulalongkorn (Rama V) and a member of the original royal family of Chiang Mai. 9 December 1933 she died. Now there is a yearly event around her villa. The event has a fair and performances of traditional dances.
  • Songkran Festival (สงกรานต์). The Thai Water Festival is celebrated as the Thai new year from 13-15 Apr (though it may begin a day or two early). The most obvious sign that you're in the middle of the festival is when you get soaked by someone pouring a bucket of water over you, or squirting you with a water gun. This tradition evolved from people tossing water that had been poured over holy statues, since this water was expected to be good luck. Now, it takes the form of a free-for-all water fight, and you will undoubtedly be drenched. It's also a way of staying cool during the very hot and humid month of April. Put your mobile phone in a plastic bag.

Hiking and other activities

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While it is probably possible to do alone, there are several companies along the main road who organize 2-3 day long hiking trips. The prices are mostly similar (except when you book at the hotel of course), just stroll along the main square road. Multiple offices often share bookings with the same companies and thus the program is usually similar too - but different packages exist, depending on price and duration. The program consists of something like minivan pick-up and drop-off, light hiking with a guide, sleeping-over in a hill village, visiting some hill tribe and elephant zoo, rafting. Some basic food should be included too (ask to be sure), and it should be possible to leave the bags at the "booking office".

  • 7 Monk's Trail. A popular jungle hiking route through the forest to Wat Pha Lat and continuing up to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. Take a red songthaew to Chiang Mai University or Chiang Mai Zoo. Alternatively you can also take a red sogthaew to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep and begin your hike in the reversed direction. The route to Wat Pha Lat is considered easy to moderate (about 1 hour) and the route from Wat Pha Lat to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep inclines steeper (about 1.5 hours). Dress properly or bring a carf to cover shoulders and knees since the route passes through temples. About 280 meters before reaching What Pha Lat, there is a three way intersection, where there is a sign of an alternative route to an abandoned temple Wat Anagami. This 500m route is more challenging but there is ropes helping you to climb. Also prepare yourself to cross one unbridged small stream via walking on the stones. From Wat Anagami you can return through the original route to continue your hike to Wat Pha Lat or try to catch a songthaew passing by and go back to city. Note that because almost no one comes to Wat Anagami so the songthaew usually will not stop there and you need to catch the driver's attention alongside the road. Best time to hike is morning, to avoid heat and increase the chance of encountering monks on the trail.

Massage

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  • 8 Fah Lanna Massage, 186/3 Loi Kroh Rd (near the Night Bazaar, down the street from McDonald's, past Royal Lanna Hotel), +66 82-0303029, . A small and very cosy massage shop close to the Iron Bridge. Clean, friendly and professional, Fah Lanna gets consistently high ratings in customer reviews. First, customers get a gentle foot-bath with scrub and comfortable clothes to change into and after the massage they are offered ginger tea and a cold towel. The decor and the background music are beautiful and add to the experience. After collecting 10 stamps (1 stamp per 1-hour treatment) they give a free massage. Massages are excellent, the prices seem to have increased due to its success. 600+ baht.
  • 9 Green Bamboo Massage, 1 Moon Muang Rd, Soi 1, +66 89-8275563. A small, charming studio in a typical wooden Thai house located inside the moat. The staff are trained in Thai massage therapy. Also offers individual daily or weekly courses in traditional Thai massage, Thai yoga massage, Tok Sen massage and Thai oil massage. Seminars are run by Ms Mesa, a certified and experienced masseuse. From 200 baht/hour.
  • 10 Kiyora Spa, Chang Moi Road Soi 2 (from Tha Pae Road, turn into Chang Moi Rd Soi 2), +66-52-003-268, . 10:00-22:00. Kiyora is a provider of Thai-Lanna massage modalities incorporated with Western massage techniques. Price of a massage includes transport service within the city. From 800 baht.
  • 11 Let's Relax (2F Chiang Mai Pavilion and B1F Chiang Inn Plaza, Changkhlan Rd). Does professional massage in a very clean surroundings complete with air-con, the sound of running water and gentle scents. A 45-minute foot reflexology session costs 350 baht, nearly twice the price of the competition, but is worth every satang after a long trek.
  • 12 Thai Massage Conservation Club (Blind masseurs), 99 Ratchamanka Rd, +66 53-904452, +66 89-7552155. Daily 08:00 - 21:00. Massage is performed by blind masseurs, who speak (some) English. They offer traditional Thai as well as oil massage. Oil massage 300 baht/hour.
  • 13 Viang Ping Massage and Spa, 2/4 Tha Phae Rd, Soi 2 (opposite Wat Bupparam), +66 53-874071. Very clean and well-run business, professionally run by Fern, manager-proprietor. All massages based on the Lanna, northern Thai-style, using pressure points and energy lines. Homemade coconut oil and natural facial, body scrub, and wrap products. Fern also teaches massage and spa services to individuals or occasionally to small groups. Loyalty cards for regular customers, free massage after 10 visits. Thai and oil massage courses, also spa courses. Prices average 200 baht for Thai, foot, or head and shoulder massages. 250 baht for oil massages.
  • 14 Wat Sam Pao (วัดสำเภา) (just W of AUA school, corner of Ratchadamnoen & Ratchawithi Rd. Entrance on Ratchadamnoen). Just inside the south gate to the compound on your left. 1 hr: Thai massage, 130 baht; foot massage, 130 baht; oil massage, 300 baht.
  • 15 Blue Garden Chiang Mai, Ratchamanaka road Soi 4, +66 851062895. Blue Garden offers Chi Nei Tsang treatments and training and advanced Thai Yoga Massage treatments and training. Like dynamic Thai Massage, advanced stretching and neck therapy

Cycling

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Chiang Mai Bicycle, +66 828828722. They off tours from half days to multiple days. The Lanna countryside tour is particularly nice to get out of the city and ride around some more rural area and see a calm way of life. Guide spoke very good English and talked a lot about personal experience not just rattling off random facts. 1100+ baht.

Co van Kessel. Half day cycling tours available. 1150 baht.

Chiang Mai Cycling Buddy. Offers one day and multi-day bicycle trips. 1900 baht.

Motorcycling

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  • Motorcycle touring is a great way to explore northern Thailand. One good day trip out of Chiang Mai is up and over Doi Suthep, which will take you up to Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, and beyond the mountain to the reservoir. A perennial favourite among bicyclists and motorcyclists is the Samoeng Loop, a 100 km circuit into the mountains and back to Chiang Mai.
  • Motor-scooter touring as far as Mae Hong Son and suitable for the less experienced motorcyclist.

Muay Thai (boxing)

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After football, Thai boxing is the national sport of Thailand. It can be seen in three different "stadia", in reality more like boxing rings in warehouses.

  • 16 Kalare Boxing Stadium (not far from Nawarat Bridge, a short block S of Tha Phae Rd in the Night Bazaar). Real muay Thai fights (almost) every Monday and Friday at 20:30 with 10 bouts ranging from young novices to local champions to locals v. foreigners. Spoiler alert: The locals usually win. The smallest of the three stadia it is nearly open-air, but with a new tent covering and good lighting. This is much more authentic than the frenzied beer bar atmosphere of the other two locations. 600 baht standard or 1000 baht Ringside.